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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Firstly, hello and welcome to you :). I have recently become an owner of an 2003 Alfa 147 JTD 8V. Despite the lack of valves it does come with leather seats, 16" wheels and 73,000 miles. It is certainly a little different to the Focus and 306s I have owned of the past.

I did not buy it without issues I admit, some which were more obvious at the time than others, but for now they are only a few.

I initially had a creak coming from the front of the car behind the bulkhead. A new top arm cured this, whilst I still have a knock. At the time that I changed the arm I noticed that the ARB assembly had play present (albeit a slight amount).

The play does not seem to be present in the drop links, so I guess that leaves the ARB bushes. Are they simple to change (the access did not look great!) and are poly derivatives from the likes of Superflex considered to be a viable alternative or am I best off going for a half decent item (i.e Genuine or Lemforder et. al. branded)?

Finally the car has a slight smoking issue of the black variety. If pulling away from a junction a slightly bit of smoke can be seen. However when putting my foot hard down to the floor it is enough to smoke out people behind me (I have once or twice been flashed with main beams due to this). No error codes are present at the moment. Inside the car all sounds find and the car starts without fault. Outside however a slight whisle/whine can be heard from the front when others have driven the car away. Oil levels are still fine and I have no warning lights present. Is is a simple issue to fix or a sign of trouble ahead?

I have an OBDII scanner which I have used on other cars (Fords mainly I admit!), but would this be of any use on a JTD?

Final questions are to do with the fuel and air filter. At the last service I noticed that the fuel filter was not change and that the air filter was but after seeing the location of it, I am not so sure! I have since acquired an air and fuel filter of the UTI brand. Is it worth me filling the fuel filter up with diesel additive or diesel so as to bleed the system or do they self bleed?

The air filter seems to be very inaccessible on a JTD (surprising when it has a 10,000 mile service interval). The guides I have seen show the necessity of having to remove the fuse box, battery terminal and undertray in order to just about remove the air filter. Is there a simpler method or is that tricky a job on a JTD?

Sorry for all the questions, but here is a picture of my latest acquisition :):
 

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Hi Chas,

I'm no mechanic, but had a 2003 jtd for 5 years, great little engine.
Check the top turbo hose very carefully, this 'always splits over time', this caused my black smoke.
If ok check the lower hose which rubs on a nut and will eventually bore a hole.
If still ok, clean the egr valve.
If it is one of the pipes, purchase an uprated one from shop4parts, alfaworkshop.com or autolusso on ebay.
As for the air filter, yes I'm afraid its a complete pig to change, but if anyone does come across a quicker way I would be very interested.
Good luck
.
 

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:) Welcome to the delights of Alfa ownership! I have had my 2003 JTD Lusso 8v for 3 years, spent a fair bit on it, but been rewarded with some great motoring experiences. My top turbo hose was the first thing to go, that cured the black smoke, though it is still there a bit on heavy acceleration, might try an EGR clean next. The front suspension is a pain all-round, I have had all sorts done and it still clatters and bangs, but grips like ****!:cool: At some point when funds allow, I want a full set of front and rear lowered coil-overs and shocks, plus poly bushes and a front top brace. that should sort it all out. Phew!
I am lucky to have an indy Alfa specialist garage near me in Sale (MVC) and a proper old-fashioned back street garage owned by a mate for MOT's and short services.
You WILL end up best mates with your mechanic and maybe your local breakdown truck company as well :(
Keep the engine topped up with the right oil and change the oil and the filter, regularly and it will last for easily double your current mileage. Keep reading the forum and you will soon get to know all the most common faults, and how to fix them.
You'll soon be addicted to the low-down torque, like me, and don't forget, there is the possibility of upping the power output to going on 150bhp with a trip to a remapping firm.
Look forward to a summer of caning it round some nice quiet (speedtrap free) roads, and enjoy! :D
 

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arb bushes.......roll bar needs to come out...u cannot do them on the car.....£60 is for bar n bushes

egr as said is first thing to check, as its prob sticking as regards the smoke

the noise from front......is it a bit like a siren? if so its probably tip of blade on the impellor in the turbo.........could have been reason for selling the car!
if its more a whooshing its split or leaking pipe from turbo to intercooler or intercooler to engine

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The noise from the front is only really there from cold and soon goes once the car has warmed up. I did notice that at the inlet manifold end I had a slight oil residue and that the pipe had slightly come away from where it should have been (I pushed the pipe further home and tightened it up). I shall be checking the lower hose soon (it's getting the opportunity to!).

At the last service it was filled with 10W40 which I guess is the correct oil for the car.

Regarding the EGR, is there an easy way to test it or does it have to be removed from the car?

Ta muchly for the help :). Don't tell me that I will become best friends with a mechanic!
 

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Ive got a 147 jtd 8v and they are great, a remap at £140 will give you the same power output as a 147 2.0 litre twinspark but about 25mpg better fuel consumption.The twinspark is imo more fun to drive but not at 25mpg less each gallon! Smoke and suchlike can be a small leak in the turbo hose or a faulty egr valve.There are plenty of threads are on here and google re blocking the egr valve to see if it improves.My 147 is an 04 model i made a blanking plate for my egr valve and i dont get mcf or warning lights showing.Finally if your top turbo hose was coming off that would probably explain your problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
long shot, but when you 1st tun the key, how many bars do you see on the display for oil?
All the bars are present. On the dipstick it is up to the MAX mark.

Ive got a 147 jtd 8v and they are great, a remap at £140 will give you the same power output as a 147 2.0 litre twinspark but about 25mpg better fuel consumption.The twinspark is imo more fun to drive but not at 25mpg less each gallon! Smoke and suchlike can be a small leak in the turbo hose or a faulty egr valve.There are plenty of threads are on here and google re blocking the egr valve to see if it improves.My 147 is an 04 model i made a blanking plate for my egr valve and i dont get mcf or warning lights showing.Finally if your top turbo hose was coming off that would probably explain your problems.
That is precisely the reason for why I went for a JTD. I have always tried to stay with petrols (my works car is a Mk3 Mondeo 3.0 V6 on LPG) but I was aware of how thirsty Alfa petrols are (A friend of mine never saw more that 34MPG out of his 1999 156 2.0 TS; it was a lovely car to drive mind you, but my 306 GTi-6 showed that up for MPG!). That and I am not the only person driving this car.

I did initially consider getting a remap on whichever derv variant I acquired, but I also understand (from a few sources, well PPC and a couple of others) that the turbo life, along with the life of the DMF and EGR can become compromised. The EGR remap I did however consider and I still am.

I did re-jig the top hose as said but the smoking is still present. It *may* be a little less but I cannot say for sure.
 

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remaps will not affect turbo, turbo is driven by exhaust gas and runs on a bearing of oil.........the only thing that can happen is u have any old map dumped on your ecu and not one custom done on rolling road.....that map may well give overboost issues
egr is a valve, canot see how that can be affected by a remap either

the thing what affects turbo life is neglect of oil

Gary
 

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If all bars are present its got too much oil in it.
Its amazing how many JTD owners don't realise that you need to have the last bar empty.
Overfilling a diesel engine can play havoc with other key components mainly the turbo.
Check your manual to understand how to read the bar gauge.
 

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If all bars are present its got too much oil in it.
Its amazing how many JTD owners don't realise that you need to have the last bar empty.
Overfilling a diesel engine can play havoc with other key components mainly the turbo.
Check your manual to understand how to read the bar gauge.
how does too much oil paly havoc with the turbo.its fed what it needs? and it needs a constant supply of good oil

the info center is only for information you should dip the engine to get proper reading, if dipstick says there is enough then there is
 

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Discussion Starter #13
remaps will not affect turbo, turbo is driven by exhaust gas and runs on a bearing of oil.........the only thing that can happen is u have any old map dumped on your ecu and not one custom done on rolling road.....that map may well give overboost issues
egr is a valve, canot see how that can be affected by a remap either

the thing what affects turbo life is neglect of oil

Gary
The oil I plan to change once the weather warms a little (as I do with most cars). Whilst I do believe the receipt saying the car had an oil change another one will not hurt for piece of mind. I guess semi synthetic 10W40 will do the trick fine?

AFAIK (the Alfa not being alone here (Ford Mondeo TDCI after 2003 seem to do this too) I was under the impression that if the EGR was blanked off an error code would show relating to the emissions system, and that the only cure in this case was a remap for the ECU to work without the EGR.

If that is not the case I guess blocking the EGR is simple?
 

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We are all replying to an old(ish) thread but can the 8V EGR be blanked without lighting the MIL or going in to limp mode. I thought it could but i may be wrong. It may store a code but I thought that the MIL light stayed off and it did not go into limp mode.
 

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I think so as i just cleaned the misses 147 EGR and forgot to reconnect the cable. it has been working fine all weekend but with Motor control error. on scanning it reports ERG sensor fail. so you could blank and disconnect. but you will get the MCF warning ether way.
 

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Air filter t turbo hose

Firstly, hello and welcome to you :). I have recently become an owner of an 2003 Alfa 147 JTD 8V. Despite the lack of valves it does come with leather seats, 16" wheels and 73,000 miles. It is certainly a little different to the Focus and 306s I have owned of the past.

I did not buy it without issues I admit, some which were more obvious at the time than others, but for now they are only a few.

I initially had a creak coming from the front of the car behind the bulkhead. A new top arm cured this, whilst I still have a knock. At the time that I changed the arm I noticed that the ARB assembly had play present (albeit a slight amount).

The play does not seem to be present in the drop links, so I guess that leaves the ARB bushes. Are they simple to change (the access did not look great!) and are poly derivatives from the likes of Superflex considered to be a viable alternative or am I best off going for a half decent item (i.e Genuine or Lemforder et. al. branded)?

Finally the car has a slight smoking issue of the black variety. If pulling away from a junction a slightly bit of smoke can be seen. However when putting my foot hard down to the floor it is enough to smoke out people behind me (I have once or twice been flashed with main beams due to this). No error codes are present at the moment. Inside the car all sounds find and the car starts without fault. Outside however a slight whisle/whine can be heard from the front when others have driven the car away. Oil levels are still fine and I have no warning lights present. Is is a simple issue to fix or a sign of trouble ahead?

I have an OBDII scanner which I have used on other cars (Fords mainly I admit!), but would this be of any use on a JTD?

Final questions are to do with the fuel and air filter. At the last service I noticed that the fuel filter was not change and that the air filter was but after seeing the location of it, I am not so sure! I have since acquired an air and fuel filter of the UTI brand. Is it worth me filling the fuel filter up with diesel additive or diesel so as to bleed the system or do they self bleed?

The air filter seems to be very inaccessible on a JTD (surprising when it has a 10,000 mile service interval). The guides I have seen show the necessity of having to remove the fuse box, battery terminal and undertray in order to just about remove the air filter. Is there a simpler method or is that tricky a job on a JTD?

Sorry for all the questions, but here is a picture of my latest acquisition :):
Just had mine done at the local garage ,very nice helpful chaps.
Air filter plus top turbo hose fitted plus a diagnostic check £95.70 including VAT bargain .
Runs like a dream now.
 
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