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Discussion Starter #42
Which decals?

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The radio interference decals i think, the slam panel ones are mostly available but correct me if I'm wrong , ill post up a scan of the ones I'm going to print tomorrow


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I was going to say I think all the slam panel ones are are available. I'm sure there's a recent thread on here or alfabook.

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Impressive. Have you considered losing the BMC sticker though? My eye went straight to it and ( of course you may feel differently ) I think it detracts from what you've done. A bit Max Power IMO :)
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Impressive. Have you considered losing the BMC sticker though? My eye went straight to it and ( of course you may feel differently ) I think it detracts from what you've done. A bit Max Power IMO :)


I know, I only put it on to see what it looked like and it looks really ****e, it's coming off today. I wish I'd kept the original air intake instead of binning it years ago as I think the engine bay looks a bit empty, you live and learn !


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Discussion Starter #46
NO LEAKS !!!!!
Flushed the coolant system today until it ran clear from bottom hose and flushed out the heater matrix.Fitted up the new coolant hoses from Roose, i had them made in as original spec as possible, i.e matt with no logo. I'm pleased with the hoses apart from the supplier sending the wrong size clips but as i need another couple of stainless ones I'm not bothered, ill pick up the correct size next week .
With trepidation i double checked everything and started up the engine, a bit rough for about two minutes but then soon settled into a smooth idle. It actually idles better than it has ever done so it was not just a cosmetic exercise. Once the bumper is fixed and adjusted in place ill give it a decent run bit i let it idle for about fifteen minutes and once the cleaning fluid and various oils had burnt off all seems okay. Happy man !!!!!!!!
Here's a before and after, I'm very pleased with the overall result, just a few minor things to complete and it will be finished .

When Ive had time to think about it i will post up a summary of the pitfalls and problems so that it may help other forum members along the way, there are few things i would definitely do different !



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Discussion Starter #48
The car passed its MOT yesterday with no advisories which was good news.

My final instalment on the engine detailing, now I've finished it I'd thought I'd post up on my experience of the task and the highs and lows.

I know this has been done many times by other people and ill try not to go over old ground.
What did i learn ?
Walk away when you're frustrated, have a brew, fag or just leave it until you can think clearly.
Label absolutely everything and bag or box it separately.
Take multiple photographs of the strip down then take more ! You may think that you'll remember where everything goes at the time but believe me after a few weeks when you come to put things back together you will damn well will have forgotten .
Have a clear goal in sight and a plan to work to, sounds a bit David Brent but it WILL save you time and money.

Okay enough pontificating, now for some useful information.
Will you need specialist tools, not really but it helps if you have the following:
Small factor torque wrench that goes down to 5nm for getting into tight spaces and accurate torquing up.
Quick clamp release tool for the multitude of Click-R-clips, intake runners, breather hoses etc.
Long hex drive drive Allen key set for the intake runners, they are very fiddly to tighten up .
Compression tester (not strictly necessary but whilst its all in bits it'd be rude not to)
Workshop manual, no explanation necessary.
Some really good release oil, DW specialist proved to be unbeatable.

The parts i renewed with new were, in no particular order:
Expansion tank.
Side covers.
Every hex cap bolt and standard bolt with stainless steel ones.
Radiator.
Radiator support panel.
Cable clips and grommets.
Decals.
Coolant hoses.
Wiring loom split trunking.
Gaskets, cam cover, plenum, throttle body, plug seals, thermostat and manifolds.
Intake runner gaskets.
Click-Clips and jubilee clips .
Injector rail hose.
Engine tie bar “dog bone bushes”
Bumper support brackets .

Parts i refurbished or had refurbished:
Intake runners.
Coil cover and plenum.
Wiring loom and seals .
Slam panel.
Firewall.
Throttle body.
Oil breather system and hoses.
Injectors.
Fuel Injector rail.
Fuel injector assembly .
Every bracket that needed it.
Timing belt cover.
Windscreen wiper arms.
Scuttle panel.
Many many small parts that I've now forgotten about !


Budget.
As for costs, double what you think its going to cost because you will find parts that need renewing that you didn't even think would replacing. Radiator and radiator support panel are the stand out ones. I think the costs that i never really factored in where the sundry items, paint stripper, automotive cleaning fluids, polishing wheels, anti freeze, clips, clamps and lots of bits i cant think of at the moment.
As a rough estimate £900-£1100 probably covers it.
The major cost i totally underestimated was time, definitely triple that, it probably took fifteen full man days to complete which doesn't sound a lot but that's a lot of weekends and time after work at night.

The job is not particularly difficult or beyond anyone with reasonable spanner skills and a decent tool box. I didn't come across anything that i thought was going to be beyond me and I'm no expert, my patience and skills were tested at times but with advice from forum members and the internet it all came together.
A big thank you to forum members BussoDiego and Mitch for their answers to questions and supplying some misplaced parts. Karl at Alfashop really helped me out with parts and went that extra mile to source some long discontinued parts, all really good fella’s.

To sum up, i learnt a lot about the car, such as i always wondered where that wire went to and what it connected to. I now have a better understanding of what part i need to remove to get to another part.
Would i do anything different?
Apart from having the fuel rail chrome passivated, (I'm not entirely happy with the gold finish so it may be removed and chromed next spring), the answer is probably no. Maybe plan a bit better and expect the unexpected .
I'm pleased with the overall finish and look of the engine bay and found the whole experience satisfying. Most of my colleagues at work basically said “why are you doing it, nobodies going to see it”. My answer was, i am, every time i open the bonnet and that's all i care about !

Thanks for following the thread, i tried to compile a list of suppliers that i used, it may be of use to to anyone doing the same thing.

Paint, fuel line, clamps and sundries. https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/
Click-Clamps, hose clamps. https://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/
Intake runner chroming http://www.chromefix.co.uk/
Aqua blasting http://www.fastlineparts.com/aqua-blaster
Powder coating http://northwestpowdercoating.co.uk/
Side panels,Bumper Brackets https://www.partsworld-uk.com
Coolant tank,Radiator panel https://www.alfaholics.com/
Gaskets and stabiliser bar http://www.alfashop.co.uk/
Coolant hoses https://roosemotorsport.co.uk/
Decals http://www.lipscomb.co.uk/
Bolts and fasteners http://www.nutsofchorley.co.uk/
Radiator https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/
Intake runner gaskets http://www.torque7.co/
POR Paint and sundries http://www.frost.co.uk/

Trim clips, cable wrap, loom tape and everything else came from eBay.
Thanks for reading.
Jon .











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Great post and fantastic engine bay. Thanks for posting all the useful links.

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The coolant tank new vs old is really something that makes a difference in the whole appearance. Was drawn to that perhaps due to blue coolant vs the old pink stuff mine has in it.

Seriously the rest is a massive change. Funny did not think my engine bay was too bad. Was very clean. However when you look at both your before and after side by side. My gut thought is mine sits nearer to your before than your after. No chance of me getting to your level but you have inspired a bit of a clean up particularly for next year when it gets campbelt change is in order.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
The coolant tank new vs old is really something that makes a difference in the whole appearance. Was drawn to that perhaps due to blue coolant vs the old pink stuff mine has in it.

Seriously the rest is a massive change. Funny did not think my engine bay was too bad. Was very clean. However when you look at both your before and after side by side. My gut thought is mine sits nearer to your before than your after. No chance of me getting to your level but you have inspired a bit of a clean up particularly for next year when it gets campbelt change is in order.


As far as I'm aware the pink is actually longer lasting coolant vs the blue, pink five years blue two . I only used the blue because the guy at the motor factors looked in the spec book and it came up as blue and it was on offer !
I agree about the coolant tank, a yellowing tank just didn't cut it and I had tried all the usual suspects in trying to clean the old one, bleach, citric acid and bicarbonate of soda (Not all mixed together !!!!) but none really works. Just purely a cosmetic thing but as you say your eye is drawn to it.

My engine bay refresh sort of snowballed from a bit of a clean up into what it is now, believe me when you start its hard to know when to stop !
 

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You can't use the pink if there is copper or brass in the engine where the coolant will go. I'm not sure if this applies to the busso, but a spec book I saw said use blue.

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Discussion Starter #54
You can't use the pink if there is copper or brass in the engine where the coolant will go. I'm not sure if this applies to the busso, but a spec book I saw said use blue.

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Sounds familiar, I'm not sure if the Busso has copper or brass either, however I'm sure someone will know on here. What i do know is that it's definitely not a good idea to mix the two, a full flush of the engine and heater matrix .


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The car passed its MOT yesterday with no advisories which was good news.

My final instalment on the engine detailing, now I've finished it I'd thought I'd post up on my experience of the task and the highs and lows.

I know this has been done many times by other people and ill try not to go over old ground.
What did i learn ?
Walk away when you're frustrated, have a brew, fag or just leave it until you can think clearly.
Label absolutely everything and bag or box it separately.
Take multiple photographs of the strip down then take more ! You may think that you'll remember where everything goes at the time but believe me after a few weeks when you come to put things back together you will damn well will have forgotten .
Have a clear goal in sight and a plan to work to, sounds a bit David Brent but it WILL save you time and money.

Okay enough pontificating, now for some useful information.
Will you need specialist tools, not really but it helps if you have the following:
Small factor torque wrench that goes down to 5nm for getting into tight spaces and accurate torquing up.
Quick clamp release tool for the multitude of Click-R-clips, intake runners, breather hoses etc.
Long hex drive drive Allen key set for the intake runners, they are very fiddly to tighten up .
Compression tester (not strictly necessary but whilst its all in bits it'd be rude not to)
Workshop manual, no explanation necessary.
Some really good release oil, DW specialist proved to be unbeatable.

The parts i renewed with new were, in no particular order:
Expansion tank.
Side covers.
Every hex cap bolt and standard bolt with stainless steel ones.
Radiator.
Radiator support panel.
Cable clips and grommets.
Decals.
Coolant hoses.
Wiring loom split trunking.
Gaskets, cam cover, plenum, throttle body, plug seals, thermostat and manifolds.
Intake runner gaskets.
Click-Clips and jubilee clips .
Injector rail hose.
Engine tie bar “dog bone bushes”
Bumper support brackets .

Parts i refurbished or had refurbished:
Intake runners.
Coil cover and plenum.
Wiring loom and seals .
Slam panel.
Firewall.
Throttle body.
Oil breather system and hoses.
Injectors.
Fuel Injector rail.
Fuel injector assembly .
Every bracket that needed it.
Timing belt cover.
Windscreen wiper arms.
Scuttle panel.
Many many small parts that I've now forgotten about !


Budget.
As for costs, double what you think its going to cost because you will find parts that need renewing that you didn't even think would replacing. Radiator and radiator support panel are the stand out ones. I think the costs that i never really factored in where the sundry items, paint stripper, automotive cleaning fluids, polishing wheels, anti freeze, clips, clamps and lots of bits i cant think of at the moment.
As a rough estimate £900-£1100 probably covers it.
The major cost i totally underestimated was time, definitely triple that, it probably took fifteen full man days to complete which doesn't sound a lot but that's a lot of weekends and time after work at night.

The job is not particularly difficult or beyond anyone with reasonable spanner skills and a decent tool box. I didn't come across anything that i thought was going to be beyond me and I'm no expert, my patience and skills were tested at times but with advice from forum members and the internet it all came together.
A big thank you to forum members BussoDiego and Mitch for their answers to questions and supplying some misplaced parts. Karl at Alfashop really helped me out with parts and went that extra mile to source some long discontinued parts, all really good fella’s.

To sum up, i learnt a lot about the car, such as i always wondered where that wire went to and what it connected to. I now have a better understanding of what part i need to remove to get to another part.
Would i do anything different?
Apart from having the fuel rail chrome passivated, (I'm not entirely happy with the gold finish so it may be removed and chromed next spring), the answer is probably no. Maybe plan a bit better and expect the unexpected .
I'm pleased with the overall finish and look of the engine bay and found the whole experience satisfying. Most of my colleagues at work basically said “why are you doing it, nobodies going to see it”. My answer was, i am, every time i open the bonnet and that's all i care about !

Thanks for following the thread, i tried to compile a list of suppliers that i used, it may be of use to to anyone doing the same thing.

Paint, fuel line, clamps and sundries. Car Builder - Kit & Classic Car Parts, Tools, Accessories, Spares and Repairs
Click-Clamps, hose clamps. https://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/
Intake runner chroming http://www.chromefix.co.uk/
Aqua blasting http://www.fastlineparts.com/aqua-blaster
Powder coating http://northwestpowdercoating.co.uk/
Side panels,Bumper Brackets https://www.partsworld-uk.com
Coolant tank,Radiator panel https://www.alfaholics.com/
Gaskets and stabiliser bar http://www.alfashop.co.uk/
Coolant hoses https://roosemotorsport.co.uk/
Decals http://www.lipscomb.co.uk/
Bolts and fasteners http://www.nutsofchorley.co.uk/
Radiator https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/
Intake runner gaskets http://www.torque7.co/
POR Paint and sundries http://www.frost.co.uk/

Trim clips, cable wrap, loom tape and everything else came from eBay.
Thanks for reading.
Jon .











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I found this thread really useful. I started off by painting one bracket, but felt like doing everything.

Extremely time-consuming, but worth it.

Here is mine
937051
 
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