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Discussion Starter #1
As the title suggests i think I've had a pull it bits moment.
Ive been planning on detailing and tidying the engine bay up for ages, I've been squirrelling away all the bits i think ill need over the last couple of years. Coolant tank, side covers, split trunking, electrical wrap tape, refurbished cam and plenum covers, gaskets, bolts and all the other bits we all know i might need.
So apart from one bolt in the air con radiator that snapped everything came apart without to much trouble.
My plan is,
Degrease and paint cam covers and engine parts with por15 engine enamel. Red and silver
Re-chrome inlet runners ( already sent away)
Have the injectors cleaned while they are off.
Tidy up the loom with new trunking and wrap.
Paint fuel rails .
Tidy and refurbish all the bits i can see that need it.
Fit new front manifold and cat .

I knew or suspected the cooling radiator was past it but i was shocked at how bad it is, along with the knackered support i will order a new one on Monday.
Now for some questions.
There has always been a bit of suspected oil leak from the front near the oil cooler, I don't think its the oil cooler as i had that replaced a few years ago.The leak continued, that's partly why I've pulled the front off so i can try and trace the leak.Im not sure if its oil or PS.fluid, a bit of a long shot but from the pictures any ideas ?
Once i degrease and clean the engine maybe it will become clearer.
I bought a cam and plenum cover set a few years ago, i had these blasted and powder coated and. Finished off the rough bits myself.
You can see from the pictures that they came up well, however much to my annoyance the plenum chamber is slightly different .The hole where the fuel breather pushes on is smaller on my car than the one i had refurbished. You can see where a blank has been fitted and let in for the smaller diameter fitting on my car. I suspect that it off a phase 1 car so I'm back to square one which means painting my original parts.
If anyone is interested drop me a PM before they go on the well auction site.
Loads of members have done what I'm doing so the search function is invaluable but I'm sure i will need your help when i miss something or it won't start ever again !!
Jon




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Discussion Starter #2
As the title suggests i think I've had a pull it bits moment.
Ive been planning on detailing and tidying the engine bay up for ages, I've been squirrelling away all the bits i think ill need over the last couple of years. Coolant tank, side covers, split trunking, electrical wrap tape, refurbished cam and plenum covers, gaskets, bolts and all the other bits we all know i might need.
So apart from one bolt in the air con radiator that snapped everything came apart without to much trouble.
My plan is,
Degrease and paint cam covers and engine parts with por15 engine enamel. Red and silver
Re-chrome inlet runners ( already sent away)
Have the injectors cleaned while they are off.
Tidy up the loom with new trunking and wrap.
Paint fuel rails .
Tidy and refurbish all the bits i can see that need it.
Fit new front manifold and cat .

I knew or suspected the cooling radiator was past it but i was shocked at how bad it is, along with the knackered support i will order a new one on Monday.
Now for some questions.
There has always been a bit of suspected oil leak from the front near the oil cooler, I don't think its the oil cooler as i had that replaced a few years ago.The leak continued, that's partly why I've pulled the front off so i can try and trace the leak.Im not sure if its oil or PS.fluid, a bit of a long shot but from the pictures any ideas ?
Once i degrease and clean the engine maybe it will become clearer.
I bought a cam and plenum cover set a few years ago, i had these blasted and powder coated and. Finished off the rough bits myself.
You can see from the pictures that they came up well, however much to my annoyance the plenum chamber is slightly different .The hole where the fuel breather pushes on is smaller on my car than the one i had refurbished. You can see where a blank has been fitted and let in for the smaller diameter fitting on my car. I suspect that it off a phase 1 car so I'm back to square one which means painting my original parts.
If anyone is interested drop me a PM before they go on the well auction site.
Loads of members have done what I'm doing so the search function is invaluable but I'm sure i will need your help when i miss something or it won't start ever again !!
Jon




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Sorry i forgot to add a picture off the area where the leak is
Most of the oil is coming from around the PS air on compressor area, but i suppose it could be oil flicking up from the oil cooler.I will keep you posted on what i find



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Just a thought but you'll never have an easier time to change to silicone coolant hoses.

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Discussion Starter #4
Just a thought but you'll never have an easier time to change to silicone coolant hoses.

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I know, was thinking about it but had a look at autolusso and unless I looking in the wrong bit I can only see sets for twinnies.
Probably another factor is the spiralling costs !
Budget of about £1000, which is easily eaten away .


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I know, was thinking about it but had a look at autolusso and unless I looking in the wrong bit I can only see sets for twinnies.
Probably another factor is the spiralling costs !
Budget of about £1000, which is easily eaten away .


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They do a set, a bought one for my V6, keep looking.

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Sorry i forgot to add a picture off the area where the leak is
Most of the oil is coming from around the PS air on compressor area, but i suppose it could be oil flicking up from the oil cooler.I will keep you posted on what i find



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Could the leak be from a failed camcover seal ? They are a common failure and the leak evidence does seem high up !
 

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Could the leak be from a failed camcover seal ? They are a common failure and the leak evidence does seem high up !
I agree!

If you want a more OEM looking silicone hose (rather than gloss red,blue or black of the Autolusso items)

Roose Motorsport also make them for the 24v V6 and come in their unbranded Satin and Vintage black finishes.

Great work so far!

Oh and if plenum is indeed PH1 i'd be interested, I shall send PM

Edit: looking at pictures. Plenum is not PH1 [No EGR mounting face]
I'd hazard a guess at it being a 2.5 V6 cover
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree!



If you want a more OEM looking silicone hose (rather than gloss red,blue or black of the Autolusso items)



Roose Motorsport also make them for the 24v V6 and come in their unbranded Satin and Vintage black finishes.



Great work so far!



Oh and if plenum is indeed PH1 i'd be interested, I shall send PM



Edit: looking at pictures. Plenum is not PH1 [No EGR mounting face]

I'd hazard a guess at it being a 2.5 V6 cover


Leaking cam cover was my original suspect, however new cam cover gaskets were fitted when I had the belts done last time and it still leaked . I think my best plan is to really clean down everything and try and trace it. Good call though on the plenum, any ideas on how I could definitively say which engine it will fit before I advertise it ?
I don't want somebody else to buy it and make the same mistake as I have .


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Discussion Starter #10
I thought i might make it bit of thread on this project, i know its been done before, engine detailing etc but i may be of interest to some newer members or a serial tinkerer like me. Shout out if you don't think its appropriate or been seen to many times.
So today's tasks were to order:
New radiator ( surprised mine hasn't leaked yet considering the state of it)
New radiator support from Alfaholics (mine like cheese)

Two new bumper support brackets ( original adjuster threads rusted solid )
Dropped off fan shroud and top slam panel to be powder coated black (removed stickers with heat gun so i may be able to reuse)


Degreased injector manifolds and fuel rail.
Now for some questions !
Is the blue fuel pipe on the injector rail standard fuel line (under the rubber black pipe) as i would really like to renew it because it seems brittle and i suspect it may have been leaking.

Im considering having the fuel rail and injector manifold aqua cleaned before painting, anyone used this type of cleaning before as I'm not keen on having the rail or manifold blasted with anything to harsh.



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Discussion Starter #11
Okay today's update
Spent all day cleaning and degreasing, Doesn't look as though I've done much but my backs killing me after hours of scrubbing and wire brushing.
My main task was to clean down where i think the leak is coming from .

Much improved and i may be able to trace the leak now.
Degreased and polished the heads, mostly done now, just a few areas to finish off.The cam covers now look even worse but once they are painted up i think i will begin to see progress.Ive definitely decided to paint the covers in oem silver not red, i think it suits the engine better.

I removed the front manifold to get better access and refitted with new gaskets.

After a long day i decided to fit the new bumper hangers just to feel as though i have achieved a quantifiable improvement (sad i know but it was a ten minute job that made me smile)

The one area I'm unsure of is how to approach the rust and crap on the head water pipes in the vee, I don't want to flood it with gunk and water so i suppose i might just clean down where i can see and paint with rust cure and give it a quick top coat. It's a bit half arsed but i think i would have to take the engine out to do a proper job .
Tomorrow's job is to finish cleaning the head and ancillaries and prep the cam covers for paint.
Whilst I'm at i have found a set phase two exhaust manifolds that I'm probably going to sell on as mine are pretty good .Anyone interested, before they go on eBay ?
I'm looking for around £100 plus postage as they are fairly heavy .


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Degreased and polished the heads, mostly done now, just a few areas to finish off.The cam covers now look even worse but once they are painted up i think i will begin to see progress.Ive definitely decided to paint the covers in oem silver not red, i think it suits the engine better.
Keep going with the polishing!

There are pictures around of the V6 cam covers polished if you look, but here's my TS alloy cam cover -

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m615/pkr1/Polished engine cover/2015-04-22_09-51-15_DSC_0001_zps1zrl3dp9.jpg

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m615/pkr1/Polished engine cover/2015-04-22_09-52-00_DSC_0003_zpsf1merp8o.jpg

It's hard work getting the polishing done. You start off with wet & dry paper going down the grades until you get to 1200/2000 grit and then you start with the buffing wheels ( on a bench grinder for the large areas, dremel/drill/angle grinder for the smaller areas ) with proper aluminium metal polish. Finally, a bit of paint to finish off.

But when you hear the MOT tester's intake of breath, you know it was worth it!

In terms of maintenance, I touch it up with autosol after the winter and when I do the cam belt next month, I'll dig out the buffing wheels again to bring it back to how it was in the photo although after two years, it's still in very good condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Keep going with the polishing!

There are pictures around of the V6 cam covers polished if you look, but here's my TS alloy cam cover -

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m615/pkr1/Polished engine cover/2015-04-22_09-51-15_DSC_0001_zps1zrl3dp9.jpg

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m615/pkr1/Polished engine cover/2015-04-22_09-52-00_DSC_0003_zpsf1merp8o.jpg

It's hard work getting the polishing done. You start off with wet & dry paper going down the grades until you get to 1200/2000 grit and then you start with the buffing wheels ( on a bench grinder for the large areas, dremel/drill/angle grinder for the smaller areas ) with proper aluminium metal polish. Finally, a bit of paint to finish off.

But when you hear the MOT tester's intake of breath, you know it was worth it!

In terms of maintenance, I touch it up with autosol after the winter and when I do the cam belt next month, I'll dig out the buffing wheels again to bring it back to how it was in the photo although after two years, it's still in very good condition.
Very very nice , way beyond what I'm hoping to achieve .As long as mine looks presentable I'm a happy man
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Today i prepped the cam covers for painting, degreased and polished off ingrained crap and painted with por15 paint prep. POR15 paint prep is really good rust remover, soaked some brackets in over night and almost all the rust has gone, mind you it should be it damn expensive.

Ive given the covers the first coat of POR-Engine enamel, it looks a bit rough but ill see how the second coat looks, even though they reckon one coat is sufficient. After the second coat has dried ill flat out any runs and ares I'm not happy with . I know first impressions are should have had them powdered coated or sprayed them up myself but you live and learn.

The radiator support from Alfaholics is about to be built up with refreshed brackets and fixings ( going to give it a quick coat of satin black, i was in two minds but i think ill paint it). Workmanship looks first class, i was going to get one made before I spotted Alfaholics, glad I didn't go to the effort.



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Today i prepped the cam covers for painting, degreased and polished off ingrained crap and painted with por15 paint prep. POR15 paint prep is really good rust remover, soaked some brackets in over night and almost all the rust has gone, mind you it should be it damn expensive.

Ive given the covers the first coat of POR-Engine enamel, it looks a bit rough but ill see how the second coat looks, even though they reckon one coat is sufficient. After the second coat has dried ill flat out any runs and ares I'm not happy with . I know first impressions are should have had them powdered coated or sprayed them up myself but you live and learn.

The radiator support from Alfaholics is about to be built up with refreshed brackets and fixings ( going to give it a quick coat of satin black, i was in two minds but i think ill paint it). Workmanship looks first class, i was going to get one made before I spotted Alfaholics, glad I didn't go to the effort.



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I painted my radiator bracket with POR15 and then truck bed liner.

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Discussion Starter #17
Update for this weekends work.
It's been a funny weekend of highs and lows.
On a positive note i picked up the injection manifold and fuel rails from the aqua cleaners, they have come up really well.Also the powder coating firm have done the top slam panel and the radiator cowling, more good news.

The fuel injectors have come back from the injection specialist with a report. Apparently the spread pattern was not to good, at least 25% differences across the six injectors. After ultra sonic cleaning the pattern is now less than 5% difference and the seals and Pintle caps have been replaced.

The cam covers, coil covers and plenum have been sprayed red and now just need the lettering cleaned up.
Almost ready to start putting parts back on !!!!!
The bad news, which really annoyed me was the bloody fuel rail.After the effort of having it prepped perfectly clean and sound it all went a bit Pete Tong.
I applied VHT primer, top coat and clear gloss, all within an hour (I emailed VHT and they sated that i must apply all coats within an hour leave to dry then cure)
The finish looked really good before curing, however after curing in an oven for 30 minutes the surface bubbled and flaked.
I had to strip the rails back down and i have refinished them again but I'm not going to bake them this time and see how they stand up.
Anyone any ideas where i went wrong or is the paint not suitable, It's VHT Engine paint so it should be able to withstand 200 C for half an hour.



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Had some clear coat reaction on my brake caliper which had to be locally sanded and recoated. Never seen anything like the reaction on your fuel rail, but it looks like trapped solvent which has made a bubble when heated.
I never baked my engine parts but left them to harden before refitting to the engine, any further curing was done by engine heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Had some clear coat reaction on my brake caliper which had to be locally sanded and recoated. Never seen anything like the reaction on your fuel rail, but it looks like trapped solvent which has made a bubble when heated.
I never baked my engine parts but left them to harden before refitting to the engine, any further curing was done by engine heat.
I think I'm probably going to follow your example and let the paint harden over time, even heat proof paint will eventually harden after quite a while and as you say the engine temp should finish the curing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I need some advice from the forum.
When i refinished the fuel rails i removed the nylon pipe that connects the rails together, stupidly i thought that it would be simple to fit a new pipe. I have since found out that its not so simple, it looks like the pipe has been fitted at the factory by some method of compression/push fit which I'm at a loss on how to achieve.
Ive seen some tricks on YouTube that uses a bit of wood as a clamp and using some heat and lubricant to push a new pipe on but it all looks a bit Heath Robinson and I'm not convinced that under pressure it wouldn't leak, petrol and hot engines don't play well !
One of the forum members may have some pipe off a car he's breaking but i still have to find a way of fitting it. Called a few garages and Autolusso said they have used braided hose in the past but its difficult to fit .
I obviously don't want to source a new fuel rail with the pipe fitted and would REALLY APPRECIATE some advice or help. If its been done before i cant find it searching the forum.
It's one step forward three steps backward at the moment and i feel like shutting the bonnet locking it up and forgetting about the damn car, something so simple is really demotivating me !!!!!


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