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Discussion Starter #1
...Thousand miles.

Since I am now having to strip the engine down to do my clutch again, My thoughts are now on my Timing belt which is due in July (was last changed in 2009 at 60'000miles).

I have seen a lot of people here mentioning the need to rebuild the engine at 80'000 miles so I am thinking of doing some head work at the same time.

80'000 miles, It doesn't burn any oil at all and the only coolent it looses is what seeps out the edges of the radiator (new one going in shortly). It does however have a slightly weak/juddery idle which a spark plug change didn't help, although there are a few bits of damage on the inlet hose which could be contributing to that.

Should I replace the head gaskets and re-grind in the valves while I am doing the belt change? Would the head need to be skimmed while I am at it? I don't think I need to touch the liner seals or bottom end bearings as it is not using any oil and there is no contamination.
 

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Compression test before you decide anything really.
 

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Clutch and timing belt at the same time is very close to "engine out" - not much in it I would have thought. You've done all the work to get the engine out if you do the clutch, the only question is availability of lifting gear and space to put the lump. However, down that path lies madness. If you've got it out, you might as well do the heads, er, and the bearings, and what's that mark in one of the liners? You'll end up with a complete rebuild. Which is cool, but....

As Dan says, compression test. If that comes out perfect, then you can do things one at a time. Get the car on the road with a working clutch, enjoy it, then do the belt later. Otherwise, trust me, you'll miss the next 2 months lapping in valves and fiddling...
 

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What kind of numbers are we expecting from a healthy engine compression test?
For an 80k mile engine I would be satisfied with 180psi on all cylinders, 200psi would be nice to see. Then you could pretty much just leave it alone and hope to get another 40k miles out of it before needing any work.

What I'd not be surprised to see (especially given a slightly lumpy idle) is 80 - 120psi on cylinder 2 and also maybe one of the other rear bank cylinders.
 

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For an 80k mile engine I would be satisfied with 180psi on all cylinders, 200psi would be nice to see. Then you could pretty much just leave it alone and hope to get another 40k miles out of it before needing any work.

What I'd not be surprised to see (especially given a slightly lumpy idle) is 80 - 120psi on cylinder 2 and also maybe one of the other rear bank cylinders.


Thanks..


I did a compression test twice previously while troubleshooting some errors.... glad its in the 220-240psi range on a 110km or about 70mile engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all. I do have a compression tester so will give it a test before I split the gearbox.
 
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For an 80k mile engine I would be satisfied with 180psi on all cylinders, 200psi would be nice to see. Then you could pretty much just leave it alone and hope to get another 40k miles out of it before needing any work.

What I'd not be surprised to see (especially given a slightly lumpy idle) is 80 - 120psi on cylinder 2 and also maybe one of the other rear bank cylinders.
Changing topic slightly, how 'lumpy' is lumpy? My idle is occasionally uneven, I'm told the v6's can have a slightly uneven idle. Could it be the maf? About the only thing that wasn't changed!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Changing topic slightly, how 'lumpy' is lumpy? My idle is occasionally uneven, I'm told the v6's can have a slightly uneven idle. Could it be the maf? About the only thing that wasn't changed!
Imagine an engine with a dirty sparkplug. It is not a full on rythmic misfire but just a mild judder at idle that comes and goes. Like an old 1.1 fiat with the rear screen heater switched on and the fan turned to max and the engine is struggling agains the alternater. It is absolutely perfect everywhere else in the rev range though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
...Thousand miles.

Timing belt which is due in July (was last changed in 2009 at 60'000miles).

QUOTE]

:shocked::shocked::shocked::shocked::shocked:
It's only done on 20'000 miles on the current belt and I have been checking under the cover frequently, The belt is in fine shape and the tensioner and idlers still look good.
 

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Imagine an engine with a dirty sparkplug. It is not a full on rythmic misfire but just a mild judder at idle that comes and goes. Like an old 1.1 fiat with the rear screen heater switched on and the fan turned to max and the engine is struggling agains the alternater. It is absolutely perfect everywhere else in the rev range though.
Mine is the same, I'm told it's normal. Can't say I've had the pleasure of owning an old fiat 1.1
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mine is the same, I'm told it's normal. Can't say I've had the pleasure of owning an old fiat 1.1
Haha, I have, I remember the judder well so never used the fan on "3".

If it's normal I am not bothered. The engine is perfect all the other time and sounds amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Are you serious? Is there any other hint suggesting the need of rebuildg it?
A little. For years I have wanted a v6 and constantly read threads on here about how bullet proof they are and how much more reliable than a tspark they are. Then when I got one and the values started to climb everyone started to say how they blow head gaskets left right and center and all need a top end rebuild at 80k. I don't believe it really but If I am doing the timing belt anyway I might as well do as much work as is required.

Personally I think a lot of them have been running with dodgy thermostats, rads or not been serviced properly and the damage is starting to show but better safe than sorry.
 

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A little. For years I have wanted a v6 and constantly read threads on here about how bullet proof they are and how much more reliable than a tspark they are. Then when I got one and the values started to climb everyone started to say how they blow head gaskets left right and center and all need a top end rebuild at 80k. I don't believe it really but If I am doing the timing belt anyway I might as well do as much work as is required.

Personally I think a lot of them have been running with dodgy thermostats, rads or not been serviced properly and the damage is starting to show but better safe than sorry.
I don't think 80k, a few do need it by then but not the majority. Obviously they would all benefit from it but they're well away from it being necessary. From what I've seen its usually 120k when you start to get close to the danger zone but every engine is different too.
 

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It's only done on 20'000 miles on the current belt and I have been checking under the cover frequently, The belt is in fine shape and the tensioner and idlers still look good.
4 years max. They do perish. ;) Its why there is time and mileage limits put on them.
 

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I don't think 80k, a few do need it by then but not the majority. Obviously they would all benefit from it but they're well away from it being necessary. From what I've seen its usually 120k when you start to get close to the danger zone but every engine is different too.
Indeed. Some go at 55k :censored:
 

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Generally, it's a pretty robust engine by all accounts. It produces a lot of heat so any number of coolant bits going slightly off kilter will put stress on the Head Gasket and other things. It's also probably driven harder than most which will cause wear and tear issues. Compare to most Porsche units as an example and it's a rare win for the Italians.
 
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