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Discussion Starter #1
'98 2.0L, 104k miles

timing checked ok 100% ok

Cyl 2 & 3 displaying 170 psi

Cyl 1 & 4 displaying <100 psi

oil looks 'metallic'

engine turning over & fired up for 3 seconds, then died

thinking shells of piston 1 & 4 are damaged:rolleyes:

looking down the plug holes the pistons of 1 & 4 don;t seem to come up as far as 2 & 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it ran for only 3 or 4 seconds during which there seems to be some 'tapping'

also the head, when i removed the cam cover, was very dry but then the car was laided up for 3 months.

the seller told me the engine was knocking ... it was also over full of oil by 1.5 litres :eek: ...which can't have be good for it

going to remove sump after lunch. :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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On 2 opposing cylinders? I wouldn't be looking there. The answer is in the OPs question.
good point :eek:

it was also over full of oil by 1.5 litres :eek: ...which can't have be good for it
reminds me of a lad i used to work with, he ragged the engine to death in his 1.0 polo, when he finally broke it his dad payed for it to be rebuilt, when he got it back from being rebuilt he checked the engine oil and decided there wasent enough in, he used an entire 5 litre tub of oil to fill it up to the top (right to the top of the filler cap:eek: )
when he said what he had done he was told repeated times by many people DO NOT START IT! he promptly started it and drove off at speed (as much as you can in a 1.0 polo) before he made it home he had another trashed engine :nutter:

how we laughed :cheese:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i got her fired up, idles badly, knocking around 4000 rpm, tapping also...

spent 2 hours cashing a 'wiring loom' issue that turne dout to be aloose earth connect onto the head... the previuos mech had started to remove the engine but failed to tell me what he did.

now it can run for as long as i keep foot on accelerator, badly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, latest update:

1. engine idles PERFECT, turns out the servo connection had been opened but it looked to be in position & it was drawing in air thro the 13mm hole.

2. compression, after letting the car idle for 10 mins:

170psi, 185 psi, 180 psi, 175psi.....

So Cyl 1 & Cyl 4 is just as good as 2 & 3. :)

the car had been left idle for approx 3 months so i guess when the car warmed up the rings sealed better, i didn't add oil to the cambers to improve compression.

3. there is a knocking when increasing revs and if holding revs at 4000 but not when revs are reducing.

Bannowhog was up this evening him his Silver Selespeed & he confirms the knocking is crank/conrod related.

So off with the sump tomorrow, inspection time, hopefully won't be too bad.

if it is then engine + gearbox swap time :)

Otherwise, on a quick spin around me house, using the kerbs as suspension squeek/creak testers, the 2 front upper wishbones are squeeky & the right rear seem to knock a bit too.

front ARB is good.

So thanks to all who replied, i'll kepe youse posted if youse are interested :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
also, there was 6.25L of oil in the engine .... no wonder the engine started knocking.

the 8 spark plugs were covered in burnt oil, so it must have been overfileld for quite a while.
 
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Over full of oil is normally panic where people just horse a gallon of oil in to stop the death rattle but do you fancy a similar job with a sportswagon as I have one for sale as I have no time to do it now
 

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Discussion Starter #15
sure :thumbs:, please send me a PM with details

year?
colour?
engine?
mileage?
nct?
tax?
 

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Best be getting a fire lit under Padraig:wow: :lol:

I suspect small end, rather than big ends, but I think Pat had already suspected same.

Engine swap immenent me thinks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i'm hoping a re-shelling session will suffice.

be a nice upgrade from a silver 1.8 to a NERO BLACK 2.0 for a certain young lady we know :)

Might even try find a hi loop for her if the price was right :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Todays Installment:

Using an 8mm 'long' ribe tool i removed the 10 bolts around the sides then discovered there are 4 in total 6mm ribes at the 2 end

drivers side wasn't a problem the gearbox side was. took me an HOUR to remove 2 bolts. i had to modifiy a Torx40 'long' extension onto a 1/4" drive turned by a 10mm socket.... :eek:

anyways sump loosened, pump bolts opened 11mm & pump snorkel off, metal bits stuck in the fine mesh :(

Cyl 2 & 3 were at the 6 o'c position, cyl 3 was very rattley on the crank.

I removed all 'small' ends, 1, 2 were scored but hadn't turned in the conrod, 3 & 4 were more scored & had turned within the conrod

I opened big ends 2, 3 & 4

2 & 4 were like new, 3 is badly worn, couldn't remove upper 1/2

attached are a few pictures. as best i can tell the crank is ok but 4 set of 'small' end shells will be required & 1 set of shells for big end 3 will be needed.

In the 2 attched pictures is the crank [ cyl 3 & cyl 4 ] & the damaged shells

big end 3 --> small end 3 --> small end 4

On the back is stamped STD i assume = standard fitting

Questions:

1. how can i remove upper 1/2 of centre main bearing? without removing the crank.

2. do you think if i refit STD shells they be ok?

3. would i need to get the crank ground down?

4. should i swap in the 1.8 engine?
 

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Looking at the heat that was in those bearings I think it is deffo donor engine time...
 

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I think the crank will need a grind too. the journals will probably either be ovaled or tapered.

The shell on the far left looks well FUBAR.
 
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