916 tweeter bracket - 3D printing?

4199 Views 20 Replies 11 Participants Last post by wal5, 6 mo ago

JeremyG

Discussion Starter · Oct 9, 2017

Anyone else getting fed up with their tweeters falling back into their doors due to broken lugs on the mounting bracket?

An office move a couple of weeks ago set me thinking about this when I discovered a 3D printer lurking in the print room nearest my new desk.

After a bit of research, I spent a couple of hours mocking up the bracket using some free online 3D software - see the image below (so far, I've only completed the side that retains the tweeter itself).

I've no idea if a 3D printout of this part will be strong enough to actually retain the tweeter and its grille - but once I've printed it, I'll let you know.

So - has anyone tried this before?

And - if it works, I'm happy to produce copies (in small numbers...) and/or distribute the output files for others to use...

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pkr

· #2 · Oct 9, 2017

Yes, but mine are specific mounts for the Hertz DT24 tweeters*.

Thread on Squadra 916 ( membership required )

http://www.squadra916.com/forums/to...-hertz-dsk-1703/?do=findComment&comment=23071

I designed mine in Freecad and sliced it in Cura.

* But fairly easy to adapt to other tweeters.

JeremyG

Discussion Starter · #3 · Oct 9, 2017

Excellent - what material did you use for your prints?

The printer I have access to is an Ultimaker Original, which I believe uses PLA only.

Portugues

· #4 · Oct 9, 2017

Hope you go forward with this...I've stopped trying to fish them from inside the door cards!!!

pkr

· #5 · Oct 9, 2017

JeremyG said:
Excellent - what material did you use for your prints?

The printer I have access to is an Ultimaker Original, which I believe uses PLA only.

I used PLA although I do have some ABS filament for my printer. ABS is a lot more effort though ( higher bed temperatures and higher extruder temps ). Also, the print needs a higher ambient temperature and protection from draughts.

I went through a number of prototypes and part of that process was deliberately breaking the lugs to assess how strong they are - both originally and after I beefed them up a bit. PLA is pretty strong stuff - even with low levels of fill ( I've used between 10% and 20% so far and the one in the car is at 13% IIRC ).

A tip I've learned is that smaller layer sizes improve the surface finish whilst thicker layers increase strength. So I've been printing my prototypes and the one currently in the car at 0.3mm layer height for the additional strength.

dutchboy

· #6 · Oct 10, 2017

I?m an engineering lecturer and we use 3D printing for all sorts of things. If you are handy with 3D CAD it?s so handy for missing parts. Strength is no longer an issue really for ?interior? parts. Print it at 100% strength and you?ll be fine.

Great idea also btw!

alastpa

· #7 · Nov 6, 2017

Would it be possible to modify the design slightly to fit say an Alpine or Pioneer tweeter behind an original style grille? The factory tweeters sound pretty awful but I've kept them because like the standard factory look.

I know a guy on here has modified his to fit Alpine tweeters but it does require some cutting and hacking. As mentioned in another thread they're not cheap anymore so making a hash of it could be an expensive mistake.

Nellytheroc

· #8 · Nov 6, 2017

A bit off topic but has anybody tried 3D printing the back of a boot badge? The ectual badges are easy to cone by and quite cheap...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/front-re...726013&hash=item25bfc35585:g:mO0AAOSwGIRXar1T

They are available in the more modern design, traditional gold, black and white etc etc but as far as I know the back only can't be bought.

JeremyG

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 8, 2017

alastpa said:
Would it be possible to modify the design slightly to fit say an Alpine or Pioneer tweeter behind an original style grille? The factory tweeters sound pretty awful but I've kept them because like the standard factory look.

If you're 3D printing then sure, you could modify the design.

My project has stalled somewhat for a couple of reasons - first, I'm having huge difficulties getting 3D prints to correctly adhere to the printer base plate, meaning the majority of my prints have been unsuccessful. That's really frustrating. And secondly, the design of the tweeter bracket is such that it can't easily be printed in one piece because of the required overhangs, etc. So I need to rework my design in two parts which would then need to be bonded together. I just haven't had the time to pursue this further in the last few weeks, unfortunately.

So - definitely not as easy as 2D printing, that's for sure...

pkr

· #10 · Nov 8, 2017

JeremyG said:
And secondly, the design of the tweeter bracket is such that it can't easily be printed in one piece because of the required overhangs, etc.

In your slicing software, you should be able to specify supports. These are bits of plastic built from the base up to support overhangs. They are broken off once the printing has finished.

They will result in poorer surface quality on the print, but as they are never seen, it's not a major concern ( at least I don't think it is! ).

As to bed plate adhesion :

Even with PLA, set the bed temperature ( if the machine has bed heating ) to at least 60°C. Masking tape also helps with adhesion as well as other methods ( hairspray, pritt stick ). Masking tape is the easiest. The type of masking tape ( in my experience ) makes a difference as well. I tried some very smooth masking tape and it didn't work for me. The rougher ones do.

Take time to set the nozzle height with paper and ensure the bed is absolutely level using the paper technique.

You can also experiment with Brims, rafts and skirts to help with adhesion. I've never bothered with a raft so far.

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JeremyG

Discussion Starter · #11 · Nov 8, 2017 (Edited)

pkr said:
In your slicing software, you should be able to specify supports. These are bits of plastic built from the base up to support overhangs. They are broken off once the printing has finished.

They will result in poorer surface quality on the print, but as they are never seen, it's not a major concern ( at least I don't think it is! ).

As to bed plate adhesion :

Even with PLA, set the bed temperature ( if the machine has bed heating ) to at least 60°C. Masking tape also helps with adhesion as well as other methods ( hairspray, pritt stick ). Masking tape is the easiest. The type of masking tape ( in my experience ) makes a difference as well. I tried some very smooth masking tape and it didn't work for me. The rougher ones do.

Take time to set the nozzle height with paper and ensure the bed is absolutely level using the paper technique.

You can also experiment with Brims, rafts and skirts to help with adhesion. I've never bothered with a raft so far.

Yes, I'd considered adding supports but given my base model already has the "outer" (lugs for the tweeter) and "inner" (lugs for the cover) sections as separate elements, I figured I'd separate them for printing - which will also give me a larger base area for each element to assist with the adhesion issues I'm getting.

Unfortunately the printer I have doesn't have a heated base plate (it's an Ultimaker Original) and despite using PLA as the substrate it's not sticking. Next steps are as you suggest - replace blue tape; calibration; try Pritt stick, etc... but it's frustrating that this is far from being a plug-and-play system... hey ho...

bobb9876

· #12 · Mar 29, 2021

Hi guys, I would like to fix my tweeter mounts and am looking for these 3d models.
I tried thingiverse but could not find it there.
Can anyone be so kind to upload them somewhere or send them on my e-mail?
Thank you in advance!

bobb9876

· #13 · Apr 4, 2021

A short update - both the speaker bracket and the speaker cover are broken in my car. Pkr sent me his model of the holder and with his help I was able to model a cover replacement and test my 3d prints for the speaker coverI.
Some photos show the progress so far.
Our local shop has a 30% discount on the Hertz DT 24.3 so I have to decide now if I want to model the bracket that would hold the original tweeters or use the one from pkr with a new Hertz tweeters.

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bobb9876

· #14 · Apr 10, 2021

I mounted the stuff and so far it looks and functions well. Still not sure about printing with PLA - some say I should use ABS since it is in a car... I have uploaded the models on thingiverse and will add the link when I it is available for download.
~~I am attaching to stl files that could be used for printing the adapter and the cover.~~
Apparently I can not upload stl files even if I change the extension of the file to jpg.

bobb9876

· #15 · Apr 11, 2021

the link to the 3d print models

ianmxyz

· #16 · Dec 30, 2021

bobb9876 said:
I mounted the stuff and so far it looks and functions well. Still not sure about printing with PLA - some say I should use ABS since it is in a car... I have uploaded the models on thingiverse and will add the link when I it is available for download.
~~I am attaching to stl files that could be used for printing the adapter and the cover.~~
Apparently I can not upload stl files even if I change the extension of the file to jpg.

This is great as I'm missing one cover completely, however I'll need to work out how to make the mesh insert . . .

I'd print in PET-G which resists temperature better than PLA but is easier than ABS to print, plus it doesn't smell bad either. That said I'm using a printer now and with engineering/ABS-like resings you get pretty good results with a much better surface finish.

bobb9876

· #17 · Dec 30, 2021

You could add the mesh insert as part of the model maybe... I did the speaker covers for my Think City electric car with a "mesh" on - see here Speaker cover for Think City Electric Vehicle by BobbG
But printing could be a bit challenging - you would probably need to print them upside down... Please post the results, and let me know if you need the models.

ianmxyz

· #18 · Dec 30, 2021

bobb9876 said:
You could add the mesh insert as part of the model maybe... I did the speaker covers for my Think City electric car with a "mesh" on - see here Speaker cover for Think City Electric Vehicle by BobbG
But printing could be a bit challenging - you would probably need to print them upside down... Please post the results, and let me know if you need the models.

Thanks, I suspect an SLA printer would cope with the mesh, but what I might do is get a press tool made on a wood lathe and use some aluminium mesh. I'll let you know how I get on definitely. Early stages yet and I don't know whether the factory tweeter is inside the door or completely missing.

mistamun

· #19 · May 22, 2022

Awesome thread, was about to fire 3D cad up when I thought I should Google it first

I've downloaded the models and will have a go at printing it.

My first question though, what is the easiest way to remove the bracket from the speaker itself? Seems fused together?

spannerdude

· #20 · 7 mo ago

www.ebay.co.uk

FIAT ALFA ROMEO - Barchetta, Spider & GTV 916 Autosonik Tweeter mounting | eBay

That's what happened with my own Barchetta. Pushing it a few feet to position it in the garage I leaned on the tweeter a little and it dropped into the door! I only needed the mounting and when they arrived. one of those was broken too.

www.ebay.co.uk

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