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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So the job this weekend is to change the worn out pump. It is the late type with pressed on pulley and timing mark. I have read up on this and it seems that there are two options:-

1) Remove the crank pulley.
2) By locking two nuts onto the bottom studs of the water pump remove the two bottom studs. This gives enough movement to get the water pump off and crank pulley can stay in place.

My question is does method 2 work (is there enough room) with a pressed on water pump pulley or does it only work with a bolted on pulley.

Either way I will do the job myself (water pump ordered from EB Spares) but just want to know which method I am going to end up doing.
 

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If you have a socket and long breaker bar remove the pulley. I would expectthe stud removal would work, but it would be fiddley. I've always just removed the bottom pulley
 

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I'd go for the pulley removal method but like scar says breaker bar and decent socket is required
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a breaker bar and 36mm impact socket (normally used for hub bolts on front wheel drive cars) though don't have impact gun that some suggest is required. I have read threads on how hard this nut is to undo; is this only those without a breaker bar or will I have to resort to what some seem to do and jam the breaker bar against the floor and then flick the engine on the starter.

I will not forget to bend the locking tab back.
 

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if you could really lock the engine solid, a socket and breaker (a long one!) would likely do it. Sometimes just brakes and in gear is not enough, depends.....there is 140 ft/lb torque on that nut!
Alfa used 2 types of special tool that locked the flywheel, one for engine out jobs and and one of them is used from under the car (removing inspection plate, engine in situ)......I think totally alfa do a copy.

anyway, can't harm to try first with what you have at hand...good time to check that front crank seal for leaks;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes I'll try front pulley off and good idea to check the front seal, that was also in the back of my mind though with the oil that has covered the engine from the leaks higher up (rocker cover, distributor, half moon seals etc.) it might not be so easy to pinpoint a crank seal. Can the seal be replaced without dropping sump or anything else?

One thing I have only just thought about is how high is the oil in the sump and does that need to be drained to remove the crank pulley. Though as the oil has been in it for 9 years (time standing) I suppose that needs changing with a new filter anyway!

Now dare I go fully synth (will that entice more leaks?), semi synth or mineral? Please don't anyone answer this as it will repeat all the points that have been made a hundred times before.
 

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Yes I'll try front pulley off and good idea to check the front seal, that was also in the back of my mind though with the oil that has covered the engine from the leaks higher up (rocker cover, distributor, half moon seals etc.) it might not be so easy to pinpoint a crank seal. Can the seal be replaced without dropping sump or anything else?

One thing I have only just thought about is how high is the oil in the sump and does that need to be drained to remove the crank pulley. Though as the oil has been in it for 9 years (time standing) I suppose that needs changing with a new filter anyway!

Now dare I go fully synth (will that entice more leaks?), semi synth or mineral? Please don't anyone answer this as it will repeat all the points that have been made a hundred times before.
Replace the crank seal as a matter of course - not a difficult job when your removing the pulley anyway - no need to drop the sump, helps if you have a seal removal tool - prevents scratching the metal, very cheap - no need to drain the oil although I would certainly change it - old oil is full of impurities that can do damage even if its not running - with fresh oil you can crank it now and then with the plugs out to keep everything lubed.
Good quality classic mineral 20/50 is perfectly fine and is what the engine was designed for
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Joe90GT: I've only ever replaced seals by extracting with a screwdriver or when the engine is stripped. Which seal removing tool do you use; is it the double horn / hook shape or the ones that look like a screwdriver with pointed hooked end?
 

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Joe90GT: I've only ever replaced seals by extracting with a screwdriver or when the engine is stripped. Which seal removing tool do you use; is it the double horn / hook shape or the ones that look like a screwdriver with pointed hooked end?
I've got both but the double horn one is best for the crank seal - you can get a really cheap set off Amazon that do the job - I use the hook type for O rings and that sort of thing
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK the job is finally lined up for this W/E. Any reason Haynes (not perfect I know) don't list front crank seal as possible with engine in the car? They state rear is possible but not front.
 
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