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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have the part no's of the SZ A-Frame ball joint & also front tie bar ball joints to hand? I did them on my last 75 but must've passed the info. on when I sold it!
Thanks in advance
Neil
 

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Neil,

This advice used to be available at this site: Alfa 75 / Milano Resource
along with the part numbers, but the site doesn't work anymore. Have you considered useing Polybushes instead? Don't have to modify any steelwork for the tie-rods, and I think they have better longevity and less noise on the A-Frame side of things?

Just a thought
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks like I'll have to go that way with the A-Frame as EB said that the ball joint is no longer available!
Thought about polybushes, any ideas on how much a full kit is? And does anyone know of a second hand HBE kit with Bilsteins?
 

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Hi,

I'm new to the forum but I noticed your problem! I'm at the start of the process to mod my GTV6 to rally it and therefore got a fair amount of background to the suspension mod side.

Re the SZ front A arm bush: polybushes are available but the SZ bush is difficult to get hold of (too few made) but the route that I'm pursuing is to size a spherical bearing from SKF or whoever and then get a sleeves made up to suit the ID/OD for the fitting. I'll have to wait until I get round to having the arm off to measure the unit.

Re the front castor control rod. I understood that the control ball joint is an Alfa 105 (guilia?) one that fits the adjustible section of the std control rod. It requires the control rod hole opening up to accommodate the ball back and forming two holes for the bolts. The alternative as I see it that will be easier to source(?) is to use a heim rod end set in a bracket to suit, bolted/welded to the bodywork in the same location.
 

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...
Re the front castor control rod. I understood that the control ball joint is an Alfa 105 (guilia?) one that fits the adjustible section of the std control rod. It requires the control rod hole opening up to accommodate the ball back and forming two holes for the bolts. The alternative as I see it that will be easier to source(?) is to use a heim rod end set in a bracket to suit, bolted/welded to the bodywork in the same location.
The Giulia caster joint works very well. Poly I would not recommend, as they wear out quickly resulting in unwanted handling.
You can add coil-over (like these: AlfaRomeo-PerformanceParts (powered by CubeCart) ).

Very important for handling is the rear side of the car. particularly with transaxle construction. Many solutions for that too; putting some camber on the rear axle does a very good job too. (but test upfront what you need: how much camber do you need for your application and also: the rear wheel allignment (do you want a steady car, or a car that goes in a corning very sharp ?))
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi,

I'm new to the forum but I noticed your problem! I'm at the start of the process to mod my GTV6 to rally it and therefore got a fair amount of background to the suspension mod side.

Re the SZ front A arm bush: polybushes are available but the SZ bush is difficult to get hold of (too few made) but the route that I'm pursuing is to size a spherical bearing from SKF or whoever and then get a sleeves made up to suit the ID/OD for the fitting. I'll have to wait until I get round to having the arm off to measure the unit.

Re the front castor control rod. I understood that the control ball joint is an Alfa 105 (guilia?) one that fits the adjustible section of the std control rod. It requires the control rod hole opening up to accommodate the ball back and forming two holes for the bolts. The alternative as I see it that will be easier to source(?) is to use a heim rod end set in a bracket to suit, bolted/welded to the bodywork in the same location.
I was thinking about the sperical bearing set up also, and making a housing for it, but RS Racing do actually sell a kit which looks to be the same as the SZ one I fitted (but more expensive)

Regarding the tie bar ball joints, EB Spares sell them for around £15 each.......fitting them is easy with a burring tool, took me about 1hr start to finish per side on my last 75. Think at £15 each (plus a couple of nuts & bolts) they're probably cheaper than poly bushes!

AB156V6; I don't quite know how to adjust camber on the back axle short of bending the bearing lugs, I'm not aware of any adjustment (on any of the axles I've had out).......I take it that this is why you reccommend testing first!

The front end is easy, either machining the lower wishbone spacers (I took 4mm off each one (I think) after lowering the last one - to compensate for excessive negative camber) or Alfa used to do some offset top wishbones with a cam arrangement, but I'm not sure if they are still available?
 

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@Neejah: standard you can't on a 75 (or 90, alfetta etc). But you can adjust the whole triangle, but it needs cutting and welding (professionally, otherwise you car will handle like a pig ;) . Therefore you need to know what driving style you have (which circuit you will come most often) and adjust to that. After the welding it is not good to cut it and weld it again.

Common setting: 2 degrees negative camber and 2mm (over the axle) wheel allignment. But, if you usually drive on short cirtcuit, taking less allignment positive, or even negative allignment, will make you turn in better/faster, at the expense of less high-speed stability. On the Nurburgring you don't want negative allignment for example ;)
 

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Agreed with Aernoudt :)....
Thanks (I think one of the few today :eek: )

RS racing also has several aluminium parts to replace all the rubbers in the transaxle construction, making it very suitable for hard-driving (but also less comfortable obviously) like these: http://www.alfaromeo-performanceparts.com/shop/view_product.php?product=CENDTO9O4

JS Racing goes really far in it's Alfa 75 suspension set's ( http://www.js-racing.net/page42.php ); particularly for the front side: they also provide full replcament of the arms, by fully adjustable ones (ie: track width and camber !) using only uni-bolts, so perfect for track days, but not very comfortable for day-to-day use ;)
Also they weld in a different front section to stiffen it a lot; despite that still lighten up (also due to no torsion any more) with some 34 kilo's.
 
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