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2,558 Posts
In Car Entertainment.
I would like to start a serious thread on the subjest to help me.
Please post pics, suggestions and tips on what you have done to your 33.
I'm after SQL not SPL
My setup so far which I started in 2004 lol and still haven’t got round to finishing it.
Head unit
Alpine CDE-9827R
Amp
DLS CA21
Sub
JL Audio 10w3v2-d4 @2 ohm
I have just found out that the amp I bought with the sub should not be used at 2 ohm. I took it apart and found a blown mosfet and resistor. I have fixed that now and plan to use it for the front components and add the following.
Components
SPL Dynamics SD5.2 5 ¼” Thinking of going to 6.5" later
Sub amp
JL Audio 500/1
Sub box
I have just had a slot ported box made by a friend, wow what a difference that made. I gave him moral support when making it and held this and that.
I can now use the JL sub amp without worrying as it will go down to 1.5 ohms
I connected the components today and ran them off the head unit.
I need to figure out how to fit them properly and not look too out of place, HELP!
I was planning on using an MDF ring to screw the component to and then shaping the other side to fit to the metal of the door in the lower front corner. When I looked today, guess which of the two types of regulators I have. Yes, the ones that point to the front and are right in the way!!
I noticed that all the OEM Alfa speakers have all fallen apart, the rubber / foam connecting the cone to the frame has disintegrated!
I was thinking of putting down some 20mm ply wood in the boot floor, screwing the amps down to this and then screw some 1” by 1” strips to the ply wood base and then cutting out the shape of the amps and sub from ply board to make a false floor to hide the wires. I could also make a bracket to hold the sub box in place with a padlock for security.
To be able to get to the space saver I could undo the padlock, lift out the sub box, remove the false floor, which wont be fixed and open a hinged opening for the spare.
Any other ideas?
Would leaving a circular hole over the spare wheel well cause a problem with the sub being on top of it, rather than a hinged opening?
Anyone got any ideas on upgrading the tweeters but still keeping them in the same place as OEM ones?
I would like to start a serious thread on the subjest to help me.
Please post pics, suggestions and tips on what you have done to your 33.
I'm after SQL not SPL
My setup so far which I started in 2004 lol and still haven’t got round to finishing it.
Head unit
Alpine CDE-9827R
Amp
DLS CA21
Sub
JL Audio 10w3v2-d4 @2 ohm
I have just found out that the amp I bought with the sub should not be used at 2 ohm. I took it apart and found a blown mosfet and resistor. I have fixed that now and plan to use it for the front components and add the following.
Components
SPL Dynamics SD5.2 5 ¼” Thinking of going to 6.5" later
Sub amp
JL Audio 500/1
Sub box
I have just had a slot ported box made by a friend, wow what a difference that made. I gave him moral support when making it and held this and that.
I can now use the JL sub amp without worrying as it will go down to 1.5 ohms
I connected the components today and ran them off the head unit.
I need to figure out how to fit them properly and not look too out of place, HELP!
I was planning on using an MDF ring to screw the component to and then shaping the other side to fit to the metal of the door in the lower front corner. When I looked today, guess which of the two types of regulators I have. Yes, the ones that point to the front and are right in the way!!
I noticed that all the OEM Alfa speakers have all fallen apart, the rubber / foam connecting the cone to the frame has disintegrated!
I was thinking of putting down some 20mm ply wood in the boot floor, screwing the amps down to this and then screw some 1” by 1” strips to the ply wood base and then cutting out the shape of the amps and sub from ply board to make a false floor to hide the wires. I could also make a bracket to hold the sub box in place with a padlock for security.
To be able to get to the space saver I could undo the padlock, lift out the sub box, remove the false floor, which wont be fixed and open a hinged opening for the spare.
Any other ideas?
Would leaving a circular hole over the spare wheel well cause a problem with the sub being on top of it, rather than a hinged opening?
Anyone got any ideas on upgrading the tweeters but still keeping them in the same place as OEM ones?