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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Yes it's me again.

50 miles on brand new clutch mk2 and a high pitch squeeking noise has started from the clutch housing. It sounds exactly like the squeek you get on a squint pully on the Aux belt system but is from the wrong side of the engine.

The noise goes immediately when I press the clutch pedal and returns when I rev the engine up or leave it to idle for a while.

I am also noticing a slight shunt in the drivetrain when I engage first gear. When I dip the clutch pedal the engine note changes and is a lot deeper. It also judders very slightly in 1st and reverse with steering at lock (so only noticeable during parking manuevers I don't think Either of these symptoms where present on new clutch mk1.

Apart from that it is perfect, I am at a loss as to what could be wrong. All spring plate bolts were torqued correctly and with loctite and the clutch was aligned perfectly on installation.

Only thing out of the ordinary is the gearbox is slightly overfilled. Despite draining everything out of the gearbox and putting in exactly 2l in, it is about 1cm over the max mark on the dipstick.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update. Just Bled the slave and lubricated the slave cylinders ball joint with the clutch arm, then took it out for a thrash.

No change whatsoever. Still the same chirrupy squeeking noise that comes and goes. I am going to keep driving it and just see what happens.
 

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Mine did the squeaking thing after a new clutch. I might have a video somewhere so you can see if it's the same noise. I was concerned but it eventually went away. Mine also does the little shunt when engaging a gear at standstill... maybe the clutch isn't quite disengaged? My gear changes are smooth enough though so it doesn't bother me. I've bled the clutch a couple of times and it hasn't changed it. It'll still squeak the front tyres from 1st to 2nd so I guess it's still strong.

I thing the engine load sensor knows when you dip the clutch, and changes the idle in preparation for moving off, like how the engine note changes when the AC clicks in and out. I've noticed lots (probably all) of the V6s do that. It's more noticeable with a louder exhaust.
 

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Squealing noise you describe would usuallly be thrust bearing issue, but you have just replaced the whole kit haven't you. Is it not likely to be a faulty part or incorrectly fitted? (Hope that is not too depressing a thought) Perhaps as suggested above the noise will go away though I can't think of why this would normally happen. Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies. The noise is still there but seems to come and go completely at random.

I have now done 70 miles on the new clutch and it is still operating fine however I notice that when the engine is cold, everything is perfect but as the engine warms up (after say 5 miles) that is when the squeeking will start, the clutch will start juddering very slightly at bite in 1st/reverse and the pedal will become ever so slightly heavier.

My last "new" clutch that only lasted 70 miles operated perfectly but would occasionally "Grab" (the clutch would suddenly release when changing gear causing the shift to be jerky) and then at 70 miles the release bearing just kept popping off the spring plate. At this time there would be a horrific judder through the pedal. The Judder I am getting now is nothing compared to that and I can smooth it out by raising the revs.

The only difference in the way I installed the 2 clutches is on the 1st I lubricated the gearbox input seal and the tips of the clutch fork and on the 2nd clutch I replaced the seal but did not lubricate it. I don't think I lubricated the fork tips this time either (Ned advised that dust from the wearing clutch would stick to the grease and affect the performance of the clutch).

Thinking about it, On my original clutch, the very first. I would intermittantly have a judder from the clutch, what I have now feels the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for the double post.

Hoping an experienced engine builder or Alfa specialist can comment. My worry is that I actually have a worn thrust washer on the crank and all the noises/juddering, premature failure of the original clutch etc is being caused by excessive end to end movement of the crank. If this was to be the case, how can I test this theory and can I replace the washer without fully stripping the engine?

I am actually less afraid of dropping the sump and repairing bearing/washers than I am of dropping the gearbox a 3rd time!
 

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You could check crank end float from the front pulley. Set up a dial gauge on the block and put the pointer on the crank nose. Press in, pull out, see what the difference is.

If it is the end float, you'll need to fish the crank out to fix it, so don't hope it is this. I don't think you can get the upper thrust washer in place without removing the crank (you can certainly do the lower one).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks RXE, Just looked that up and it is indeed a crank off job to fix.

I have just been reading an LUK fault diagnoses guide for clutches and this guide seems to imply that the gearbox input seal (gearbox snout) that the bearing slides along should be lubricated with a non solid based grease, as should the gearbox splines. This goes against what Ned has told me.

Could the lack of grease here be causing me any problems?
 

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On the squeaking.

If it goes when you press the clutch it is gearbox not release bearing. Release bearings squeal when used - so when the clutch is pressed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_81zB7CdOM

Does it sound like this? That's what mine sounded like after a clutch change, but it went away.
It sounds exactly like that.

Went for a long drive yesterday (40 miles) and it seems to have improved quite a lot though. Clutch feels a lot more consistant. Could it just be that I have a new clutch and it is trying to bed in in stop-start traffic?
 
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