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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
3.2 Oil temp / level sender definitive answer.

Some of you may remember that I pulled the 3.2 out of my Brera recently to replace the transfer box and sort out the sub frame.

Because of the cost of the oil temperature sender (£350) I decided not to replace it whilst the engine was out.

Well, that decision has truly bitten me in the backside as the thing has now totally failed and is spewing engine oil onto the exhaust, causing clouds of stinking oil smoke, making it impossible for me to sell the car. To say I am totally gutted is a slight under estimation of the situation.

So, here is the massive question......Is it REALLY, REALLY necessary to pull the engine to change this sensor?

I have been under the car and I think that once the front exhaust is out of the way, the alternator duct is removed and the transfer box is released, the sump should come down.

Has anybody actually done this? Am I missing a vital thing that stops it releasing?

I am really not interested in opinions or "I told you so", I need an answer, have I got to pull the engine again?
 

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Isn't the same sensor available cheap from gm? It's a bit worrying that a dead sensor would actually let oil leak out out of it!
 
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Not a lot of response, as I expected. Looks like I am on my own.

Spent an hour in the workshop tonight and stripped the under tray, front exhaust, alternator duct, inner wing, transfer box bolts and rear engine mount. BTW, if you pull the engine mount, all the oil spills out of the sump as the bolts go right through.

It does look possible to get this sucker out. The oil filter housing and heat exchanger looks tricky, think I will have to remove the front of the car and front manifold to get access. Air con compressor is also bolted to sump.

The enclosed pictures show the task from all angles.

Anybody know for sure if there is a sump gasket?
 

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I feel you are right. This gauge is replaced with engine strip.
As I may see from my local forum everyone who has bought this gauge never complete this job.
I have a friend here in Russia. He has used 159 32JTS Q4 Autodelta driven.
I have asked him about the end of this story but he is 3 hours east from me. Sleeps already.
Talk to you tomorrow.
 

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I just had a look at oemgmparts.com, the oil pressure sensor was about $18, but i didn't find an oil temp sensor, or an oil pan gasket??? I sent a message to benzinabrera, he has swapped oil pans from the alfa to his 3.6 gm block so he'd know.
 

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Hi. Sorry i didnt see this post before. Would have been able to tell you that taking the pan off only is a huge mission.

Anyways. The awnser is no the V6 does not use a gasket. It uses silicone. The grey high heat one. The grey stuff is oil and fuel resistant so they have no problem sealing.

Just use the correct torque specs and bolt tigtening pattern when putting the sump back on and you should be fine
 
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Discussion Starter #11
there you go :read:
Top info. Cheers mate.

I will be out in the shed again tonight. Bumper and rads are coming off so I can get to the oil filter and exhaust manifold, then the sump should be accessible.

Another thread on here talks about removing the bottom pulley. Anyone know if this is actually required? I can see bolts through the end case but no reason to remove the pulley.

I think I might drop the air con compressor off the engine too as it looks like it will just get in the way, however, this involves removing the aux belt, which is a nightmare itself as the RH engine mount has to come off.

Going in, wish me luck.
 

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Ive only got bad news for you. To my knowledge. The pulley must come off as there are bolts from the timing cover that screws into the side of the sump. To get 2 of those timing cover bolts out you have to remove the pulley as it sits over them.

The timing cover also seals against the sump so you must make sure you clean the old silicone off the exposed timing cover piece and put new silicone on and hope it seals that way.

The ac has to come off so that you can remove the oil filter housing if i remember correctly. To release tention on the belt is not so bad. Just remove the driver side fender lining plastic and then you can easily stick a T-bar in there with a socket to release the tention. No need to remove the entire tentioner.

To release the tention simply get a socket or spanner on the nut that is in the middle of the idler pulley on the tentioner and pull to the side that makes the belt sloppy.
 

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Good luck 427scr! Where does the oil temp sender actually mount? Is that it in picture 5 next to the engine mount point? While the pan is off, please take pictures of the oil pan baffle and oil pickup :beer:
 

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The temp sensor is a 2 piece sensor connected by a wire. One piece reads level and the other reads temp. You have to remove the 2 oil baffle plates in the sump. Then the level sensor is exposed. Loosen the level sensor. Next remove the big sirclip on the outside of the tempsensor behind the plug. Now push it in and remove the sensor assembly
 
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Another 2 hours in the shed and the car is stripped with the exception of the bottom pulley. Whole front of car off, radiator removed. manifold, compressor, power steering and finally the oil filter assembly.

The pulley is stuck!!!!!!!!!!!!

It has to come off to access the single bolt holding the sump....what idiot designed it like that?

I have various pullers but the forged pulley is curved in every direction and they will not grip. I think I might have to design and build a special puller to get it off. it might even need heat! Or chop the thing of with a grinder and buy a new one :furious:

Any bright ideas or is there a magic Alfa tool for getting the pulley off? :censored::censored::censored::censored::censored:

Will post piccies at some point.
 

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I have never seen personally what is to be done to replace temperature sensor at 32JTS.
My friend has told that it is still possible to replace it without engine take off.
If you still intend to proceed this way please make sure that to put stripped parts back is much difficult to strip them first.
He has decided to suspend this repair for better case.
Please also bear in mind that sensor itself normally OK. Problem caused by inner socket part.
good luck.
 

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I just used a normal 3 arm puller. Hook them in behind the pulley. Use a socket with the appropriate size for the crankshaft end and let the puller centre push against the socket as you turn the puller centre thread.
 

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Going in, wish me luck.
I feel for you man, after all that hassle with the transfer box too. You sure after you've put all this work into it you definitely want to see it go?!

My temp sensor has now gone as well, and the level sensor sometimes provides unusual readings. What's happened to cause it to start spewing oil into the exhaust? Is it just bad luck that its broken and now happens to also be leaking, or is it inevitable that once they start reading incorrectly they will leak at some point after that?
 
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I just used a normal 3 arm puller. Hook them in behind the pulley. Use a socket with the appropriate size for the crankshaft end and let the puller centre push against the socket as you turn the puller centre thread.
I have exactly the same puller, but it just slips off the forged pulley due to the radius of the forging.

Remember, I am trying to do this with the engine in the car and its like gynecology :thumbup:

I think that if I grind the tips of the puller to a reversed point, it might just hook into the groove on the back of the pulley where the rubber is. What worries me is breaking the spokes of the pulley. It looks impossible to get the puller to stay engaged on the center hub, however, I have thought of using a big jubilee clip to keep the legs engaged??

Do you think I might need some heat on the pulley? How tight is it?

Below is a picture of the 3.6 Cadillac bottom pulley....damn those Yanks, why did the Italians change the design? LOOK, smashing threaded holes in the pulley for you to screw your puller into.
 

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