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this is somthing i,ve been putting of for some time but i,ve desided to bite the bullit and get it done . when i was browsing this forum i seen a thread on removing the inlet manifold on the 1.9 16v diesel without removing the timing belt , can this method be applied to the 20v. just another question i,m thinking of cleaning the vanes in the turbo, how do you remove the clamp that holds the turbo & the cat together , when i was changing the engine oil i desided to remove the cat to replace the oil filter, i loosined the bolt on the clamp to the point the bolt was almost removed but the cat was still tight , i mananged to move the cat towards the radiator to change the oil filter and then moved it back again ,but this time i want to remove it compleatly. any advice would be greatly appreciatated.
 

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i,ve noticed a slight loss in power this long time it seems to be stanglelated in the mid to higher rev range ,i have replaced the following parts , air flow meter (boshe from jamie porter) map sensor, and boost control module on the radator slam panel. i have checked intercooler pipes ,the small pipes coming from the boost control module to turbo actuator, the intercooler had patch of oil where the core joins the plastic end, this i repaired with fibreglass resign and ithink is up to the job, i have also two egr valves ,one fitted and one cleaned and ready to install ,done on 4 to 6 months basis , which makes belive theres not much else but a coked up vanes in the turbo . today when coming home i noticed less power in the low end range ,ie turbo's presence not felt to after 2000 rpm
 

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have you had fault codes read?

start your engine and have a look at actuator on turbo ..this should move an inch at least and when turn off it should return..if its not good recheck or even bypass boost controller to rule that out ps check you got vacuum

egr valves ? you replaced with new or just clean or even tested as in assume their good:confused:
 

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i got a workmate to start the car a few times and switch off and on a couple of occasions the rod did not return to its position , it did move an inch approx . one of the egr valves was a reconditioned unit done by a vauxhall mecanic purchaced of ebay, the other is the one that came on the car. the last time i changed it i stripped the unit down and cleaned it with oven cleaner check the solinoid pin sprayed the whole thing with wd40 then i checked to see was it opening and closing with two wires and a battery which it was. i also made a blank plate out of light tin and blanked it off and it didnt make alot of differerence. i have a code of p1238 for two months approx, but the car has been like this for year and more with no manangment light. before i mentioned there was poor power below 2000 rpm ,on driving to and from work today it seems to be back to the way it was the day before.
 

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egr problem but i think you have split pipes from turbo actuator to boost control solenoid and to engine metal pipe ..replace them small bore pipes first ..couple of quid to do ..local motor spares place will have them off a reel
 
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Is that 5mm and 3mm the pipes? And do you replace the small bore pipe from solenoid to metal pipe at front top of engine? And the 5mm do you just ignore the hard plastic or is it metal pipe at back of rad and just replace the whole length with new pipe all the way to actuator?

Also anyone know of a cheap solenoid? Any other makes of car? As went to look at my pipes and plastic bit for too hose didn't so much break off but fell off in my hands. Rebuilt it with glue at moment so it's working but would like to replace it... May just find one out scrappy do 8 or 10v have them? Or would it have to be 16 or 20v?

Cheers

John
 

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Is that 5mm and 3mm the pipes? And do you replace the small bore pipe from solenoid to metal pipe at front top of engine? And the 5mm do you just ignore the hard plastic or is it metal pipe at back of rad and just replace the whole length with new pipe all the way to actuator?

Also anyone know of a cheap solenoid? Any other makes of car? As went to look at my pipes and plastic bit for too hose didn't so much break off but fell off in my hands. Rebuilt it with glue at moment so it's working but would like to replace it... May just find one out scrappy do 8 or 10v have them? Or would it have to be 16 or 20v?

Cheers

John
yes 3 n 5 ....from actuator on turbo follow pipe up till it gets to control valve disconnet it and connect to engine one you are bypassing that control valve:thumbs:

you found a leak there:thumbs:
 
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Why bypass valve?. Not sure what I am trying to do by connecting straight to engine pipe?

Not sure.... feel a little hesitation or lag and not quite power I would expect in higher gears at speed. Gotta do some logging of afm desired and actual boost against rpm etc. But thought would have a look at pipes although no leak on small one as heard pressure release the 5mm pipe had surface cracks and worn bits on it so thought best change them. also here a fan like whir if I rev it standing still so gonna check lower hose etc. Just want to get it 100% and loose any niggles. drives an pulls well enough just think it isn't quite spot on.

Also engine shakes when I turn it off and read that could be the actuator pipes...

Maybe just all needs a clean and Italian tune as egr and stat was dead when I got it so some soot could have clogged things up a little

John
 
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