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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, when I drive my car for half an hour or so and turn it off, and try to start it up after 10 minutes it would crank but would not start. Also, if I let the car idle in the garage for about 40 minutes it would start to misfire and stall. I scanned it for codes and got P2292-21 which is for the Fuel injection pressure sensor part number: 55253502 ( Bosch) located on the fuel injectors rail. I went ahead and replaced it. Unfortunately, the issue persists. A few months back I discovered when I disconnect the Air mass flow sensor the car would start right away so I went ahead a replaced it too but no luck. Lately, I've been disconnecting the engine coolant temperature sensor part number: 55203964 every time it happens just so I can start it back up. I don't wanna go ahead and replace and find out that it's functioning properly. I would really appreciate it if someone can direct me towards the solution to my issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First of all, what software are you using to diagnose the car?
I don't recall the name of the software
I think you have fuel injector issues, can your scan tool monitor fuel pressures? start the engine when cold, let it run for 1 minute then stop it but turn the ignition back on. If all is well, the fuel pressure must RISE. This is because the cold fuel in the injectors gets heated and expands. if the fuel pressure drops, it's leaking and the most likely place is an injector.

I found that the easiest way to find the leaky injector is to remove the spark plugs when it refuses to start and you will likely find 1 or more wet spark plugs.
I will try that next. Hopefully I don't have fuel injector issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The thermostat housing has two sensors. The one you see in the picture mounts to a plastic piece right before the thermostat housing. I removed to get a better look because I wanted to replace both sensors. Now, I am trying to put it back on but it is not going all the way in. Was I not suppose to take it out in the first place?
Does any of you know about it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not sure what would stop it going back in or if it can be replaced separately. Persevere. Alfa workshop has the housing for £96. The second sensor has been added for euro 6 engines and I presume it is used by the fuel injection so a possible culprit. Can only see one coolant temperature value in MES.
When you said second sensor are you referring to the one I uploaded. In addition, can the replacement of the whole housing be the solution to my issue? Since it includes both sensors. Also, can you explain its functionality in detail? If not can you guys help me with a repair manual or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I didn't mention anything about fuel injection, that was wbanham.

BUT - The reason why disconnecting the MAF allowed you to start the car may be that when doing so the Engine ECU switches to a default fuel injection map, seeing it can't create a dynamic map as it needs data from the MAF to do so. Disconnecting the thermostat sensor may be doing the same thing. At any rate you're going to need a new Thermostat Assembly now anyway.

My suggestion is to replace the Thermostat Assembly (seeing you have now choice now) and see if it fixes your problem and get back to us, but to be honest I think your actual issue lies elsewhere.

I keep saying this over and over - It is a waste of time trying to do most diagnostics on Alfa Romeos unless you are using Alfa Romeo specific diagnostic software, as Alfa Romeo does not always use the standard OBD II codes for faults. For example code P-XXYZ on the standard OBD list will describe the fault as something to do with Part A, Alfa Romeo will give the description to do with something completely different.
I’m an enthusiast, I wanna get the diagnostic software. Can you recommend one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update!!!!
I just read a different thread back from 2009 ( 159 JTD starting problem ). The guy name is Hobbs 9999 ( sorry for using your name buddy ). Anyway, he said the issue was on of the
cylinder injector seals was leaking. His engine is diesel powered. Would that make a difference? Also, how can I replace those seals? Can someone tell part number and repair manual to do the job. I live overseas and we don’t have people specializing on Alfa Romeo. Even the dealer is crap. Anyhow, I wanna get it done myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I recommend using the diagnostic software first or you could end up spending a lot of money and getting nowhere. An injector seal or a blocked injector or bad solenoid is just one of many possible causes but fancied by others who have more experience than me. I could only find one instance of P2292 and also a P0303 indicating a misfire but the thread had no resolution.

Do a search of recent thread for MES, Multiecuscan software. It has a link for the required cables that you need to connect the diagnostics port to a windows laptop. The software licence is 50 euros. Download is free from multiecuscan.net, you can play about with it in simulation mode without a licence.
Or you could go for alfaOBD which android based and might be a bit cheaper. For that you need an ELM327 bluetooth adapter (not expensive)

I think many on here have used alfa workshop, you shouldn't get any problems but did you check that they ship to saudi arabia.
The code that I got is P2292 and it’s for the Fuel injector pressure sensor which I replaced new. what will I gain using another diagnostic tool since I have the code? Will the diagnostic tool show if I have a fuel injector leak?
Do you have a website for the ELM327?
I wanna get it and see if I get something different. In the meantime how can I diagnose a leaky fuel injector? Is it by removing the spark plugs and see if it’s wet when it wouldn’t start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I replaced the thermostat housing with sensors today and the issue is still there. I ran it for about 3o minutes before it started to misfire and then stalled. I am stuck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The dealer is saying that it could be a battery issue. What is the factory cold cranking amps of the battery in the Giulietta 2015 1750i? I just remembered that the issue started right after I replaced the battery!.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I took the Giulietta to the Dealership this morning. They have checked all fuel circuit and came back with "no issue was found" Apparently they did not know how to proceed so the technician decided to contact Alfa Romeo headquarters but I feel like he won't because they did not take the car in after they reached a dead end. Can someone contact the dealer for me or perhaps help me with a repair manual ? I took a screen shot of the codes so you can take a look too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
To diagnose this yourself you need a way to monitor and clear the error codes, that means buying MES or alfaOBD. Are all those errors still there after replacing the fuel pressure sensor ? Try to figure out which code is being logged first.

I would focus on those 3 sensor wires back to the ECM as it is only error which says short to ground. The other errors can be more easily explained by a 5V interruption.
Yes non of the codes disappeared after replacing the fuel injector pressure control sensor. Also, I replaced the thermostat housing unit because when the problem happens I disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor so I can start it back up. Unfortunately, that was not the needed repair. I am starting to think that I have a faulty ECU. Is there a way to diagnose a bad ECU ? Also, Does anyone know someone who repairs ECUs, I can take it off and send it to them to check it and repair it if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Update! I believe what’s causing the problem is the ECU getting hot. The way I figured that out. I started up the car, brought the fan and directed the air stream to the ECU. The car never stalled. Does anyone know someone that repair ECU’s I can take it off and send it. Because in the Middle East there are none.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Update! So I've been trying to figure out the issue ever since I disappeared lol. I used a huge fan and directed it to the engine to see if it would stall after 40 minutes as usual and it did not. First I suspected that it would be the ECU module and I had it checked. Then, the dealer mechanic told me to replace the High pressure fuel pump so I took it out of the engine to inspect it for damage and it was in perfect condition. Also, checked it with a multimeter the switch resistance stayed at 1.2 ohms even after it stalled as well as the voltage at 5 volts. Moreover, I checked if the pump is receiving fuel was squirting out of the inlet and outlet lines even after it stalled. Finally, I placed an ice bag on to see of the car would stall and you know it! it never stalled. So, What the hell is going on? it's receiving fuel just fuel with pressure that I could not stop with my thumb. Should I just go ahead and replaced it?

I also found out that it's operated by oil pressure. And I remembered that a few months back the oil pressure switch was leaking oil and I replaced it with an aftermarket switch. The original one pressure range was from 1.95 bar to 2.40 bar and the one I bought the had the same part number (55233423) says 2 bar, but did not mention the range. Could it be that this switch is not reading the correct oil pressure? and therefore, causing the pump to malfunction?
 
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