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Discussion Starter #1
First post to this forum, so please be kind!
I have a 2007 159 1.9 JTD 16v that spat out the harmonic balancer pulley, causing the timing belt to slip. I have followed the repair/diagnostic route below, but it still won't start. Let me know if you have any helpful suggestions.
  1. Fitted a new timing belt kit and water pump, aligning to marks on the belt only
  2. Purchased the timing tool kit and an ELM327 Bluetooth diagnostic tool
  3. Re-timed belt using locking tools (incl. slackening the camshaft pully)
  4. Diagnostic check showed 2 x DTC (forgotten which ones) that cleared and have not returned. Reading over 250 rpm cranking speed and over 47,000 kPa fuel rail pressure.
  5. Physically checked throttle body valve not stuck, plus ELM tool record movement when cranking
  6. Removed cam carrier and replaced all 16 rockers (10 were broken), removing most of the rollers
  7. Replaced the oil and filter (catching a few more rollers) and attached a rare earth magnet to the sump plug
  8. Cleaned and re-seated injectors using new copper washers
  9. Re-timed using locking tools and triple checked belt alignment
  10. Charged battery (12.65v static / 10.9v cranking)
  11. Cranked about 10-times, until battery voltage started to drop, so put back on charge
  12. No sign of fuel leaks
Note – Auxiliary belt / harmonica balancer, etc. not yet refitted
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Now have also cleaned the MAF and MAP sensors and checked injector leak off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have you checked the compression?
Thanks for the suggestion. No I haven't, but I did check the valve stem heights when replacing the rockers and they all looked good. Agree that would be worth checking, but I don't have a gauge. I'll investigate anything I can without buying more tools first and if I don't get any joy, I'll do that.
 

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It is known for the inlet cam to slip on the internal drive gears after a belt failure as its just the bolt torque that holds them, no taper or keyway, there is a hole for a timing pin but its hard to get to with the inlet manifold in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is known for the inlet cam to slip on the internal drive gears after a belt failure as its just the bolt torque that holds them, no taper or keyway, there is a hole for a timing pin but its hard to get to with the inlet manifold in place.
Another good shout. I didn't think to do this when I replaced the rockers, assuming the gears were keyed. The allen key plug doesn't look like it'll come out without removing either the cam carrier, or inlet manifold. Any experience that says otherwise?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another good shout. I didn't think to do this when I replaced the rockers, assuming the gears were keyed. The allen key plug doesn't look like it'll come out without removing either the cam carrier, or inlet manifold. Any experience that says otherwise?
So I had a closer look and managed to remove the inlet cam plug with a cut down allen key. Through a combination of viewing with a borescope and feeling with an allen key, I am confident that the camshaft timing hasn't slipped on the gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Pretty sure it is unrelated, but I also have a VDC error on the dash. I have checked connections to the steering angle sensor, which look ok. I also saw on another thread that diesel migration from the fuel pressure sensor via the loom to the engine ECU could cause both non-start and VDC errors, so checked this too, but all dry as a bone.

Any other ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In the absence of any other suggestions, does anyone have reliable information on what compression tester (adapters, etc.) works with this engine?
 

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I cant help you with specific tools but it is the same as the z19dth engine found in many Vauxhalls so you might find some more info about tooling on a vauxhall forum
 

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I just re read through in case I missed anything, If the timing is spot on, not 180 out but if you used the tools it will be correct, and you should be able to hear if its got compression by how it cranks over, it would start or at least try to start if it was down on just 1 cylinder, then it must be fuel, I think id remove the glow plugs and spin it over, you should be able to see if its getting any fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just re read through in case I missed anything, If the timing is spot on, not 180 out but if you used the tools it will be correct, and you should be able to hear if its got compression by how it cranks over, it would start or at least try to start if it was down on just 1 cylinder, then it must be fuel, I think id remove the glow plugs and spin it over, you should be able to see if its getting any fuel.
Thanks for the suggestion. The fuel leak off test suggests that fuel supply is good, but that doesn't necessarily mean the injectors are functioning correctly, so I will whip out the glow plugs and take a look.
I keep coming back to the fact that it was running before the belt slipped, so the fault is likely to be mechanical and directly related to the timing. I was reading another thread yesterday that suggested the inner crankshaft pulley keyway is a potential weak point. If that has sheared and the pulley has slipped on the crank, that may give the symptoms I am experiencing. I'd appreciate any thoughts on that theory and also any information on whether the 19 mm retaining bolt has an anti-clockwise thread, plus the best way to lock the crankshaft (auto transmission) to undo what is likely to be a bloody tight bolt!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
How does it sound when cranking? You can often hear when the level of compression isn't right.
When I turn by hand, it feels as I would expect. Cranking on the key feels a bit fast, but the battery has been on charge for a few days!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the suggestion. The fuel leak off test suggests that fuel supply is good, but that doesn't necessarily mean the injectors are functioning correctly, so I will whip out the glow plugs and take a look.
I keep coming back to the fact that it was running before the belt slipped, so the fault is likely to be mechanical and directly related to the timing. I was reading another thread yesterday that suggested the inner crankshaft pulley keyway is a potential weak point. If that has sheared and the pulley has slipped on the crank, that may give the symptoms I am experiencing. I'd appreciate any thoughts on that theory and also any information on whether the 19 mm retaining bolt has an anti-clockwise thread, plus the best way to lock the crankshaft (auto transmission) to undo what is likely to be a bloody tight bolt!
This is the thread New cam belt always a tooth out
 

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Discussion Starter #17
As I thought, it was a mechanical fault, directly related to the belt slipping, and @JON156VELOCE wins the prize for the correct suggestion. It was the inlet camshaft slipping on the gears. I was convinced that the cam timing was correct following my previous checks, so I fabricated a flywheel lock from some angle iron and removed the inner crankshaft pulley (yes it is a left-hand thread and bloody tight) to check the keyway, but that was fine. So I retraced the steps of my previous work, this time checking the cam timing with the cam carrier removed. Once that was fixed and back together, it fired up first time. I hope this helps someone else.
 
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