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Discussion Starter #1
Advice please...
Changed the inlet and exhaust solenoids this week - car has been smoother, accelerated better, engine quieter... WAS very happy..
Suddenly today after a short drive, I noticed the car is idling very roughly at about 500rpm, constantly wants to stall, the whole motor shakes while idling and strange almost backfiring/popping noises coming out of the exhausts...:furious:
But, it revs up just fine..
Any ideas on what is going on please?
Could a connector have come loose after the solenoid replacement? Is it the cam chain? Is it a sensor?
HELP please!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
And strangely there is no 'check engine' message coming up on the display.

Started it up this morning - same thing - definitely now seems more like it is misfiring - and all the way up the rev range. Chugs and wants to stall on idle.

Anybody on here think that it might be one of the solenoids I just replaced that's maybe gone faulty?
 

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Whilst you've not seen the MCSF light come on it's still worth checking for pending codes.
 

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Have you checked the PCV on top of the engine cover? It clogs with emulsion and this affects idle tickover.
It can be cleaned carefully(You Tube on a 1.9JTS - but it's the same part and location) or if it's split , the membrane can be replaced.
 

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Whilst you've not seen the MCSF light come on it's still worth checking for pending codes.
Just curious to know what MCSF stands for? Different to EML?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys - from what I read online the backfiring and idling issues are symptoms of a stretched chain.. Don't understand how replacing the two solenoids now brought on cam chain failure.

As a test I will in the morning try putting the old solenoids back (in the event that one of the new ones could be faulty).
If no different, then I guess it means a cam chain job is next.
Will be using GM parts - will not pay almost 100x more for exactly the same Alfa equivalent parts.

Car only has 33k miles on, so this is not cool..! :furious:
 

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Out of interest, why did you change the solenoids?
Interested to know this also.
I see little point in tampering with things unless the relevant code's come up - I guess it has?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Car had symptoms of problem solenoids. Loud intake sound under acceleration and sluggish (more than the usual 2.2 hesitation) and was also giving p11 and p13 error codes. I did my research before getting them done.
As I said above, car was a lot better with the new solenoids - now 3 days later, this..
Would have just left it as is, had I known this was going to be the result.
 

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If revs down to 500, it is neither solenoids nor chain issue definitely. Breath out.
It could be anything related air supply, fuel supply, mixture and fire only.
I am always curious how old air filter and spark plugs first similar cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It had a major service just a few months back at the dealer - new air and oil filters, oil and spark plugs.

Like I said above - car sounds and feels like it's misfiring - motor runs really rough (can almost say it's not running on all cylinders) - very jittery and rough on idle AND as the rev goes up - the whole car and motor shudders - basically undriveable like this.
 

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Do you have any general changes with your drive like new filling station use, more traffic jams, etc. to bear in mind. Anyway it comes from chambers inside engine.
I would read codes if any. They may be stored with no ELM light at dash.
If no codes I would take spark plugs off and check condition ( black/white/red/wet oil/wet fuel/ever ) for direction to check further.
 

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It had a major service just a few months back at the dealer - new air and oil filters, oil and spark plugs.

Like I said above - car sounds and feels like it's misfiring - motor runs really rough (can almost say it's not running on all cylinders) - very jittery and rough on idle AND as the rev goes up - the whole car and motor shudders - basically undriveable like this.
I'd not believe the dealer - have you checked the plugs and oil etc. Does it look like its recently been replaced? The plugs and air filter will give you the best indicator.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Spoke with my mechanic guy this morning - he seems to agree that it is not the cam chain or the solenoids (thanks BG).
He says with no engine light on, it might be the coil pack or a spark plug..
Only problem is that they are too busy to even look at the car for the next few days - so will just have to wait until they can.

Anybody use these cheaper ELM327 bluetooth readers? What Android software works well with it for a 2.2JTS ?
Thought I might as well see if I can get error codes while I wait for the workshop.
 

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Is it worse from cold and then gets better or is it always the same hot or cold? From all the signs it sounds like an ignition issue but it is odd you are not having EML Flashing as it misfires ( this is what mine did ) . At that mileage spark plugs shouldn't be due on the service yet but maybe the dealer fitted an incorrect spec plug ( I know some people have had problems with different spec plugs )

Mine had the exact same symptoms as yours with struggling at idle and faint popping at the exhaust but with misfire codes but was fine if you just raised the rpm and gave it any throttle input however it was never undriveable. Mine turned out to be dirty fuel injectors which I had reconditioned since then it has been fine. However it is still very fussy with fuel quality. If I raise or drop octanes instead of sticking to a constant fuel source it doesn't like it and isn't as smooth or powerful until I get through half of that tank. This is probably a completely separate issue but just something I've noticed.

This engine is desperate to run as lean as possible to keep its emissions down and here lies its problems relating to misfires.

I've been there when it comes to chasing misfires and it isn't pleasant best of luck
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Having now started it up a few times - I can definitely say that it is a misfire - all the way through the rev range - not just rough idling.
And still no check engine light coming on.

When you start it up - that initial higher about 1500rpm idling that it does is fairly smooth (well, kind of..) - as soon as you touch the throttle, it starts missing and chugging - and as mentioned, warm idling is down to about 500rpm with lots of misfiring and wanting to stall.

When they swapped out the solenoids, they did lift the coil rail out of the way - but after everything was put back, the car ran just fine - better than ever for about 3 days - no issues. So, I don't get what suddenly happened.

The new spark plugs have been in for a while, don't think they used the wrong ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update:
It was the new solenoids.. Dealer flushed the old ones and put them back in, car runs fine again.. Lots of time and money wasted on labor and a tow truck, all for nothing..:furious:
Should have just flushed the old ones to begin with - would only have cost 1 hour's labor and all this could have been avoided..
I guess we learn this way.

I will think twice before using GM equivalent parts again..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh - and then I had to spend another hour and a half arguing with the parts supplier to get my money back for the new (faulty) solenoids. Only when the dealer emailed a diagnosis report, would they refund me.
And they obviously quickly declined refunding me the money for the 2hrs labor at the dealer and the cost of the tow truck! :biglaugh:
 
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