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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, started to do the clutch and flywheel change on a friend's giulietta yesterday and have a few questions.

The box has now been removed, the flywheel and clutch setup changed and the box refitted and currently supported on the gearbox mount, I've just everything else to reassemble which is where the questions come in.

1, I've fully removed the subframe is there anything to be aware of to realign it during the refit?
2, are any of the subframe bolts single use only stretch bolts that need replacing?
3, does anyone have the torque settings for the subframe/steering rack bolts?
4, does anyone know the thread size/pitch for the track rod end ball joint nut, I'd like to remove them.
5, what are the torque settings for the control arm bolts to the subframe and the pinch bolt to the hub?
6, what is the torque setting for the driveshaft hub nuts?

Think that covers most of the questions, the jobs not been too bad, it hasn't really required any special tools apart from some female torx sockets and crescent spanners which I already have but others may not. The gearbox however is very heavy and needed two of us to get back in place, but other than that the job can be done diy at home.

Thanks
Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just for future reference the track rod end ball joint nuts are m12x1.5 which is classed as metric fine.
 

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How did you find getting to the starter motor bolts?

I reused all of the fastners, and used an engine crane from the top to support the weight. As you say it is very heavy for a FWD gearbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
removing it I didn't find too bad to be honest, the top most one closest to the engine is awkward but it probably only took 10 minutes to remove the whole thing. I'll be attempting to refit it in the next 10 minutes or so which may prove more interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
took about 15 minutes to refit the starter motor so not too bad really, the driveshafts however were a pig to refit, it seems they need to be at an exact angle and need a hefty whack with a hammer to seat back into the gearbox, must have wasted an hour trying to get them back in but there done and the gearbox is oil tight with no leaks.

I found a dutch workshop manual online so i've managed to find some answers to my original questions.

1, there's nothing stated about realigning the subframe, ill align it to the 7 year old marks left by the fixings when tighthening it down then have the wheel alignment checked after.

2, the subrame bolts are supposed to be renewed but they look in good condition and given there only tightened to a set figure there not stretch bolts that require a torque to yield final figure. I'll just use some blue loctite when refitting.

3, torque settings I needed are,

Subframe bolts, m14 165nm, m12 121nm
track rod end balljoint nut 77nm
control arm, m14 195nm, m12 125nm lower balljoint clamp bolt 44nm
anti roll bar drop link 55nm
driveshaft hub nut 73nm + 62 degrees

only other setting I haven't found is for the steering rack bolts but given there attached to large brackets i'll just tighten them up as tight as i'm happy with. Gearbox mounting I just did plenty tight with blue loctite and my usual 1/2" bar it shouldn't go anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Finished this off today, the spring clip holding the slave cylinder hose is a stupid design and due to the spring clip not being so springy due to age i now have a lovely brake fluid puddle on my drive not amused.

Other than that new clutch is working perfectly no more chatter from the dmf when pressing the pedal, just need to get the wheel alignment done as it's pulling to the left but that's not a great surprise given the entire front end has been off.

All in the job has cost £350 as I managed to get a deal on a dmf and clutch that had only done 1k before the car suffered engine failure.
 
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