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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm working on a 2010 Vauxhall Insignia 2.0 CDTi, I know it's not an Alfa but I'm on this forum anyway and it's mostly the same engine as the 2.0 JTDM, so I hope you don't mind me asking here.

I bought the car for a £500 with a snapped cambelt. The car is on 140k miles.

I've removed the cam carrier and replace all of the rockers & lifters. 4 of the rockers were broken, but I replaced the lot to be on the safe side.

I've now put everything back together, new cambelt on, timed it all up etc. and now it won't start at all. The car cranks, but just won't fire up. The battery has been on charge so should be fine.

I've plugged everything in, and torqued everything up correctly, so I'm not sure if I've done anything wrong or if I've got broken valves.

Could there be anything else I'm missing that would stop the car from starting? A broken sensor etc.?

Assuming all the valves aren't broken, then you would expect the car to start on 2 or 3 cylinders wouldn't you?

Thanks for any help, I've spent quite a while working on this car so hope I can get it going without having to go to a garage
 

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Second that (compression test). Its an easy first check and can be done on the cheap. If there is no compression there is a mechanical failure.

Also use an OBD tool to check if the crank/cam sensor are OK (if you get an RPM reading) and that there is fuel pressure (should be sensors for both high and low pressure).
I don't know how the high pressure pump is powered on the diesels, but I suppose its driven by either the cam-belt or the camshafts? Check if it is OK, no diesel no explosions.

also check if there are any other error messages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys, I've just bought a compression test kit on ebay so will update this thread next week. Fingers crossed it's all okay, but if not I've just seen on ebay you can buy a used head with good valves for only £100 so it won't be the end of the world if valves are broken (assuming they haven't caused any more damage to the pistons/bottom end)

I'll double check sensors and stuff later, as I still feel I'm missing something. When the engine turns over it does sound low on compression though, but I've never actually heard the car run or turn over normally so not sure what it should sound like.

The high pressure pump is powered by the cambelt, it's not timed either so shouldn't be an issue.
 

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Have you got fuel at the rail? When I had my 1.9 apart it was a pig to start due to air in fuel. Had to prime filter a lot with bleed nipple open and then slightly crack each injector pipe to expel air before it limped in to life again
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good news - the car starts after a bit of cranking. (quite a bit though, not ideal, and not sure why it takes so long to start)
Bad news - the car runs pretty rough, and smoke is coming out of the cylinder one injector. I've bought new seals and a seat cutting tool to get this sorted.

I've also got a compression tester on the way, so I'll then be able to check for broken valves, I'll be surprised if compression is good based on how the engine runs.

There are plenty of used heads on ebay for £100. What do you guys think of just replacing the entire head if I find poor compression? Sounds easier than trying to replace and lap individual valves + potentially having damaged valve guides?

Most of this work is quite new to me, but I like to learn, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the help so far.
 

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When its a reviced 1, would be a bummer when you buy one that isnt and it turnes out that its warped or so and all your work and money would be a waste of money and time.
I did that one time, never again.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G965F met Tapatalk
 

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I would try some other things first.
I suppose it's direct injection, so I would try the injectors and seals first, since you can do that with the head on.
Also check the timing again and make sure it is ok. Maybe take a peek with an endoscope to see if you can actually see damage.

If it is indeed the valves or valvetrain you can try and replace the head. But I'm afraid if the valves are busted you might also have some damage on the pistons and maybe even rods and crank (bearings)
 

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Compression test and if it fails then head off and if there's damaged pistons aswell then you might as well buy a block with the head on and just swap everything over, if you buy a 2nd hand head you will still have to have it skimmed before fitting to make sure it's flat so you don't blow the head gasket.
 

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You don't have a head skimmed in case it's not straight....you measure/test it with a straight edge first to SEE if it's flat. No point just throwing money away.
 

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Try to check if your inlet-cam is still timed correct, compared with your outlet-cam.

The cams can get turned a bit from each other out of timing, due to the resistance when hitting the valves.

Been there with my 2.4JTD; about same construction if I'm correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Try to check if your inlet-cam is still timed correct, compared with your outlet-cam.

The cams can get turned a bit from each other out of timing, due to the resistance when hitting the valves.

Been there with my 2.4JTD; about same construction if I'm correct.
I've got a timing kit which comes with camshaft locking tools and I can lock both inlet and exhaust at the same time so I assume they are fine? I'd also be very surprised if they had skipped as they would have had to destroy the gears they are attached to to loose timing.

Thanks for the help everyone, I've now ordered a used head of ebay for £100, not a bad deal at all actually as it comes with a full set of pressure sensing glow plugs which cost about £50 each used!

I'll obviously have to get the head skimmed and a new gasket kit, but does anyone have anymore details on how to replace the head on one of these engines? There's very little online as far as I can tell.

I assume it's just drain coolant (drain oil too?), remove inlet and exhaust manifolds, remove head bolts, done?
 

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They don't have to "destroy the gears". The cams slide within the gears after the valves impact with the pistons. They are not keyed together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
They don't have to "destroy the gears". The cams slide within the gears after the valves impact with the pistons. They are not keyed together.
Ah okay thanks for explaining that, I believe as I can get both camshaft locking tools in though I should be fine.
 
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