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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I have just acquired my GTV and as I do with all my Alfas I would like to do a service just to have a fresh start.
The car has 104000 miles and I am planning to do to following:

Cambelts & tesioners
Rocker cover gasket
Camshaft seals
Water pump
Thermostat

Oil
Oil filter
Air filter

I am going to diy. I will buy the cam locking tools but what should I do with the TDC tool?
Is that going to do the job?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Top-Dead-C...y-in-Best/16015473769?iid=201984173362&chn=ps)

How many camshaft seals are there? Alfa workshop has only the exhaust ones.

Am I right to change the thermostat? The engine is running at 70°C and only in traffic it reaches 90°C.

Thank you in advance and regards,

Angelos
 

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The dial gauge shown in your link won't work unless you have an extension fitted as the plug wells are deep. You've not listed spark plugs, do you know if they've been changed? There are 8 and they are relatively expensive though.
You might as well change the thermostat as you're going to lose coolant when the water pump is removed. Another part worth changing if you don't have the provenance for the one fitted is the variator. Have you considered changing the gearbox oil too?
 

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It depends on how much history you have got with it and what you know has been done. If you’re not sure and funds allow plugs (will be good for 60k miles), variator (I get mine done every other cam belt), definitely water pump. My GTV has a new stat and warms up very quickly and the needle sits dead on 90 give or take a couple of mm either side. Gearbox oil and brake fluid are often overlooked so worth changing.

Good luck and enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you very much for the replies.
I am going to order a thermostat then for sure. Do you have any recommendations on the brand? I am probably going to buy everything from alfaworkshop...
The gearbox has a really silky feel, maybe I will change the gearbox oil in a later stage.
The variator was changed in 2011 80000miles and is very quiet too, so I am thinking of leaving it in place.
What should I do with the camshaft seals? And where could I buy a tdc tool in a reasonable price?

Sending also a couple of pictures of her! Took her to work today and got a lot of compliments!
 

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I’ve got a genuine Alfa one waiting to be fitted on my Spider. Had a genuine on put on my GTV a year ago... the original lasted from new so worth paying a bit more IMO for an Alfa one. I’ve bought parts from Alfaworkshop and Alfashop; both are very good and don’t sell cheap rubbish parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Forgot to mention that she came with a service book in German! Must be a parallel import.
If I trust the service book the cambelt is only 1,5 years old. It is in German though.
I am thinking of calling the garage so as to check what was done because I can not find a receipt.
 

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Chances are it was bought by a Squaddie in Germany. I got my GTV in 2001 in Germany for 38126 Deutschmark 29 pfennig (about £12k), full UK spec and initially registered it with British Forces Germany and then with the DVLA when I got posted home. Got my Spider last year and it actually came from the same garage in Germany around the same time. Met someone at a car show a couple of years ago whose GTV came from the same dealer. Does the first stamp in the book say Bonsels and Weist, Erklenz by any chance?
 

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There was a big garrison at Herford.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So...
Contacted Alfaworkshop and I am buying 60603436 and 71753052 for the camshaft seals, one of each.
 

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At that price it is worth trying it. The clicking comes from the worn pivot where the bracket attaches to the body. IT can be repaired using a rivet nut, which is what I did on my old one after I used a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Great idea but I have not a clue where to find these rivets or how to ask for them...
Do you use a normal rivet tool?
 

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Called Rivnuts or Rivet nuts and a special tool is required, rather like a pop-rivet gun. Could get away with using a nut and bolt at the plain end and holding the bolt (threaded into the rivnut) the nut is tightened down thus pulling on the threaded end of the rivnut.

If a hole is drilled in the arm with the diameter of the rivnut when the tool pulls on the end of the rivnut it really tightens into the hole so there is no slack at all. Of course with the leverage of the door there is no perceptible friction.

example:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633942-Threaded-Rivet-Insert/dp/B000WTJPLO

and you'd need the rivets. I've found them very useful.
 

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My drivers door started to make the cracking sound last week, it was just the bolts that hold the bracket to the door had come loose, worth checking, you can use left or right side if you need one, they are not sided.

I had a bet with a very, very experienced Alfa mechanic/tuner, I got tdc as accurate as his dial gauge by using a long screwdriver :angel:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Long screwdriver???!!! I wouldn't dare!!!

I have checked the bolts... It is not that. :(
Does the doorcard have to come off in order to change the door straps?
 

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Long screwdriver???!!! I wouldn't dare!!!

I have checked the bolts... It is not that. :(
Does the doorcard have to come off in order to change the door straps?
I believe you can get to the check strap without removing the door card by taking out the speaker but I’ve not tried it.
 
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