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Discussion Starter #1
My battery has been bothering me since I bought my 166.

If left alone for a week or so, the battery goes flat. I've done the check with a multimeter today and found a draw of 170 mamps or so. The draw disappears when I pull the fuse for the cabin lights (fuse 17 I beleive).

All my lights seem ok. Glovebox light has been removed by previous owner but the cable is still there and disconnected. Boot light ok. Anywhere else that's easy to overlook? :)
 

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Try and check all the cabin lights front and rear (connections are good and clean) but it could be the alarm system it conneceted through the door light switches so possible it could be the alarm circuit somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Gibot :) As far as I know, my model doesn't have an alarm. I've checked the roof lights (they all work as intended), the courtsey lights behind the sun visors, and the boot light. As I mentioned, the glovebox light has been removed, but there's still a wire sticking out with a plug on the end. Might try to source a replacement light. The only issue that I can see is the under door courtsey light on the driver side (left), which doesn't work. I tried replacing the bulb but it's still dead. The other under door lights work when the doors are open, but I have no idea if they switch off when closed.

Which connections are you talking about? The ones between the wire and the light fixture?
 

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Fuse 17 appears to only supply the interior light units and as these have 5w and 10w rated lamps it appears you have a residual power drain of around 1/4w, so could well be a suspect (resistive) switch contact allowing a current draw path where there should be none. Try disconnecting one light unit at a time to see if you can spot something.

Also locate and check the timer relay (J42, think it should be located down behind the ICS and aircon control box on the central tunnel) as this could be suspect?

EDIT: Apologies, used 17mA instead of 170mA, so residual power drain is around 2w (NOT 1/4w), thanks ChrisS
 

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170mA is more like 2W at a nominal 12V. A decent 70Ah battery should hold that for a week no problem. Works out to about 17 days to flatten one at 170mA draw. oes seem a little high for jsut the internior light circuit though. Problem with the control module maybe? Some leakage within it??

Some step-by-step diagnostics in order really as anonima says - disconnect one light unit at a time to isloate which component is the rogue.
 

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Thanks Gibot :) As far as I know, my model doesn't have an alarm.
I thought they all came with alarms as standard.
So I assume you don't have the wee led oan ra dash then Gotcha.

Easy check is sit in car set with the remote and move about....Then again that widnay show up a knackered alarm.

Ken ma DSP set it aff IF eye left the radio oan and locked oan ra button.


Pomeo
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Interesting. Where's the little led? I do have something that could be a led on top in the middle of the dashboard (under the mirror) but I always assumed that was a sensor for something. I've never seen any red light blink though. I guess if it does have an alarm it hasn't been working for as long as I've had the car.

I will have a look tonight and I'll also try to disconnect the light fixtures one by one while measuring amps. Are any of the interior lights tricky to get off?
 

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The red led is near the dash flip up thing.
ALSO you would only see it IF you lock the car on the fob button....Just the key in the lock Disney set it.

FURTHER ALSO..Penny drapped you wood be a RHD OR steering wheel on the left looking forrard....Do you have the key card that these continental cars get and the alarm override key for the alarm in the boot?
Pomeo
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pom, it's a LHD. I do not (as far as I know) have any keycard or alarm override in the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did some more checking after work. All the interior lights seem to work as they should. I turned them on manually one by one while measuring amps and there was a consistent draw (ie the left roof light drew the same number of mamps as the right etc). This makes me think it's not necessary to check the connections. I have no idea where the clips to release the roof light fixtures are so I'm a bit reluctant to start poking around. I also connected one of the door fixtures to the cable in the glove box, and the light there worked as well.

I was not able to locate anything alarm-related in the boot so all I have to go by is the little diode in the picture in my last post.

One thing i noticed was that the under door lights did not work when fuse 18 was pulled, even though all the lights should be on 17. But I'm sure it's just a matter of something on fuse 18 being needed for the lights to turn on.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got a tip that the grey relay in the boot for the boot light timer could be the culprit. Even with the light disconnected, that relay draws around 100 milliamps constantly. Disconnected it and my draw went down to 40-50 mamps, which is fine... Now I'm just wondering if that relay is supposed to always draw power or if I should replace it.
 

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Is this the alarm diode?
Never seen it from that angle before but it sure serpently does look like the wee red alarm LED.
So eye aye hate this bit ESP wie dementia....We (in UK) ur RHD and drive oan the left and oor continental shelk cuzes ur LHD and drive oan the right....PDS Pure Dead Simple innit.:D

So does your central locking lock on the button and the wee red led light up then flash.

Bo Peep solved my dead battery drains ..... For a wee while they awe appeared to drain the battery if left for a week.....Now it has "rectified" itsell and can leave them for weeks at a time and no problems.....Its a Toyah....IE a Miss Terry.:lol:

The insurance companies in the UK banned supplying the keycodecards and the wee key which switches off the alarm..I'm sure a pic is in the hawnbook....
'appy 'unting.

Pomeo


Pomeo
 

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The alarm should be installed down below the panel and floor shown in your photo. There are 2 black connectors at the alarm end of the loom.
 

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The alarm should be installed down below the panel and floor shown in your photo. There are 2 black connectors at the alarm end of the loom.
AND ...IF the hawnbook it tay be believed there is in that locality (NB NOT IN UK MODELS) a wee black plascic cover which when removed allows the alarm override.
Hawnbook Page 16/17 Figs 10,11 and 12...NB Not the F/L wan.

Pomeo
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm pretty sure there's nothing there. There was a rubber/plastic lid under the fuses, triangular shaped, which I removed and then proceeded to drop into the hole left behind (doh) but there's nothing in there apart from a couple of wires, presumably for the lights, and now a rubber lid...

I'm thinking either the car came without an alarm but they still only made them with the diode on the dashboard, or, more probable, there was an alarm originally, but someone had trouble with it and removed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sooo, to pick this up again :(

I thought I had found the problem with the parasitic draw. Bought a new battery. Connected it, went for a drive, then the car ended up spending another 10 days in the garage. Went to unlock it yesterday to have a look at some other issues and found it completely dead. The last time i measured, when I found the boot light relay to be the problem, I could not see anything else drawing from the battery. And yet, after 10 - 14 days, completely empty. I have no clue what's going on now. Might have to get someone more qualified to have a look around.
 
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