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Discussion Starter #1
Took her out a casual drive for 10 mins, never breaking 30mph, running perfectly, idle perfecly on 850rpm.

Took her home, parked.

Return three hours later and it will not start.

I have the injector light on in the dash, but other than that, no other indicators. Sounds like the engine is getting no fuel (no petrol smell either). When switching on the ignition, I can hear the fuel pump (I think) coming on for 1 - 1.5 seconds.

64000miles

Anyone got an idea what could be wrong?


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Crank sensor.

They don't just fail when hot, as I found out. :rolleyes:
 

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The injector light indicates a fault in the engine management somewhere (it's not, as I originally thought, a problem with an injector).

It should come on, then go out a few seconds later. If it's staying on, there's a fault somewhere....which could be one of many things.

What year is the car?

EDIT: Don't answer that, I've read the title now....!
 

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Turn on the ignition so that all the warning lights come on. Wait for a while and see if the injector light goes out. If it does try cranking the engine and then seeing if the light comes back on.

If it does it means the engine cannot correlate the signals between the cam phase sensor and the crank sensor.

However if it was just the cam sensor the engine would still run.

If the light stays on after all the other lights have gone off after turning on the ignition I would get the car plugged into a fault code reader as the fault could be any number of other problems.

If the light goes off and stays off when cranked it may be a dodgy relay connection or low fuel pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The injector light stays on, even when turning the ignition on. I don't really know of anywhere I could get the use of a fault code reader at the moment... Looks like this one might cost me.

Still, keep the suggestions coming, they are much appreciated.
 

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It may still be the crank sensor, if it has gone the resistance can rise to a level where the ECU thinks it is not connected.

Can you locate the plug and measure the resistance with a multimeter? The plug should be clipped on the inlet manifold and be brown, although some ally topped cars have a black plug.

On the ally topped cars the plug will be to the left of the inlet manifold looking from the front. There is a blue connector which is easy to see and IIRC it is below this. On the plastic topped engines it is clipped on the back of the manifold sort of in the middle.

The resistance should be under 1000 ohms, between the center pin and one of the outer pins and infinity between the center pin and the other outer pin. (One outer pin is an earth)

The sensor on my 145QV failed at 70,000 miles and gave random starting problems just like yours and gave a resistance of 100K Ohms..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Disconnected the positive terminal of the battery for 15 mins, reconnected. Started first time.

:)

So, anyone know what the problem could have been?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The code light wasn't flashing previously, was it?

Maybe the battery's past its best...(?)
Nope, the code light was doing exactly as expected. If I have any more problems I'll change my battery - although my £1.99 battery tester (plugs into cigarette lighter) from Woolworths, tells me it's OK. :thumbs:
 

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If the car was cranking over ok it is unlikely to be the battery. That is when it under most load so if it is going to fail it will most likely to fail then.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I blame it on the German electrics. :D
Haha, as do I. Well, it certainly wasn't the beautiful Italian styling that prevented it from stating :lol:

Anyway, I couldn't be more happy about it starting again (and running beautifully, I might add). I had spent almost 6 hours searching for the problem and I really can't afford to take it to a garage.
 

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Just put it down to the joys of Alfa motoring!!
 

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Just having a similar problem.
Car been running fine. Parked up for 3hrs at home. Went to start car to take son too footy training and she won't fire up!
Initially there was absolutely nothing then after a few attempts, as I turned key to 'start' position even though engine wasn't turning over, rev counter climbed to 3000rpm!!:confused:
Anyway, eventually, engine is now cranking over but will not fire! Can hear fuel pump initially prime for a second or two then all warning lights go out whilst cranking except engine management light (red injector symbol) and CODE light. Have tried using master key but with same result.
Have now disconnected battery to see if its 'just a glitch'.
May need further thoughts/ideas if not successful. Will keep you posted.
 

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Relay! There are three under the cover behind drivers headlight.One is the fuel pump one is fuel inj and the other is AC.Change all three as it's cheap and they are often swapped around, so may not be in the same place as the book says:)
 

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Well, just been out and reconnected battery (terminals were tight before removal btw) turned on ignition, CODE light extinguished after a few secs then turned key and she fired straightaway! So looks like it was 'just a glitch' afterall.
Still, see if she behaves in the morning when I go to work...
 
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