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Discussion Starter #1
Please would someone help me with pointers in changing "Rear Wheel Bearings" - want to tackle this but need some guidance please - Thanks Grant

Any pointers welcome!!
 

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If you don't have a big press, DON'T do the job yourself!

The rear bearings are pressed onto the half shafts then held in place with either a screwed on lock ring (1300-1750cc) or shrink ring (2000cc and later 1600cc -like 80's) cars.

Getting the half shaft out is pretty easy.

Unclip the handbrake cables from the pivot points on the diff (split pins).

Remove the rear brake calipers (two 19mm bolts). You can leave the pipes connected BUT support the weight of the calipers so they don't strain the pipes.

Undo the four 17mm nuts behind the brake backplate. You won't get a socket on these, it'll be an open ended spanner and not a little cursing. You may well grow a beard during the time it takes to undo these, especially with the axle still in the car.

Pull the halfshaft out complete with the disc and backplate/handgrake gubbins still attached. They usually come straight out but you may need to yank on it a bit or use a slide hammer (very rarely).

You'll see the bearing and the lockring once the shaft is out.

If it's a shrink ring (plain metal ring) then it need to be cut off to remove the bearing, if it's a castellated ring then it just unscrews. The bearing itself needs to be pulled all the way along the driveshaft. You'll need special tools to do this so I'd suggest you get this done by a garage. Ditto refitting the shrink ring, it neads to be heated up and pressed into place.

Best bet would be to find a garage who are willing to do this then order a bearing kit from your favourite parts supplier. You can save some labour costs by removing the shafts yourself then trundling them down to the garage in the wife's car so that they can do the clever stuff then refit the shafts yourself.

Or alteratively, chicken out completely and drive the car to a garage who are happy to do the whole thing in exchange for a week's wages!

Don't forget to change the oil seals just inside the axle casing!

Whichever you choose, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks for your detailed response. I will start the process as soon as possible...Heres Hoping!!!! Grant
 

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I just had to do this myself and, as Mr. Dawg points out, it is pretty easy up to the point of actually removing the bearing off the shaft. If you are careful with your angle grinder then you can just cut them off. To get the new ones back on you don't have to have a press, I used a heavy piece of steel tubing which was large enough to slip over the shaft but small enough to engage on the end of the inner part of bearing (with the help of an old bearing cup). A few thumps with the heavy tubing will push the bearing in place. You should support the middle of the wheel hub and not the press fit studs as you may loosen them. It wouldn't hurt to replace the seals as well while you're in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank You - Thank You - Thank you for all the helpful tips - I have done the job without any hassles - Fab! Thanks!!!!
 

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i bought my spider,a 76, and it is quite clear it is a lashed up pig (but i dont mind a pig if shes got lipstick on)
my rear wheels wobble like the wheel nuts are undone.
everything points to wheel bearings but i notice they are a non tightening type, is that right?

i know the mot was dodgy and i didnt care because i will change all these things anyway.
the car handles like im standing on a surfboard.
it will need, and get, bushes and bearings but does anybody recognise these feelings?
help much appreciated..
 

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i bought my spider,a 76, and it is quite clear it is a lashed up pig (but i dont mind a pig if shes got lipstick on)
my rear wheels wobble like the wheel nuts are undone.
everything points to wheel bearings but i notice they are a non tightening type, is that right?
Correct, they are not adjustable.

it will need, and get, bushes and bearings but does anybody recognise these feelings?
I think it is more likely to be bushings than the bearings. Easy to check if you jack up the rear on the axle and tug at the wheels - any play between axle and wheel will be the bearings. I would guess that the bushings are most likely shot in any case. You should probably look to replace the front & rear bushes in the trailing arms, the conical bushing attaching the diff to the T-bar and the thrust washers at the T-bar pivot. The big bushings in the T-bar are unlikely to need replacing. If you want to firm things up a little, use poly for the conical bushing and the thrust washers. The thrust washers are easily fitted by cutting a slit and sliding them in.

If the rear needs replacement then the front will probably need similar work. Might be worth investigating uprated springs, shocks etc while you have it all apart.
 

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I think it will be both.
If they were adjustable bearings i would be sure it was bearings because the wheel feeling' is so poor.
I like the feel of the car till it hits a bump. speed humps are taken really smoothly but small bumps or manhole covers steer the car!
Ive seen the good reports of the spring kits and it would make sense to do them.

I cant really drive the car like it is so i'll get on it.
Are there any steering improvements around :) apart from another driver of course.
 
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