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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!!!

A quick question.. I need to remove the gearbox from 1970 1750 GTV. A friend has mentioned that I'll need to support the rear of the engine, however, the 2 workshop manuals I have don't mention anything about supporting the engine.

Can anyone confirm please?

Thanks in advance!

Dan
 

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I expect it will be fine if the engine mounts are in good order, they are more or less central under the centre of gravity.
Useful tip is to support the weight of the gearbox with a rope through the opening in the transmission tunnel, you will probably find it’s a bit reluctant to part company with the back of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks!

This is all new to me and I'm looking forward to the challenge. Thanks for the advice re supporting the weight!
 

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Hello all!!!

A quick question.. I need to remove the gearbox from 1970 1750 GTV. A friend has mentioned that I'll need to support the rear of the engine, however, the 2 workshop manuals I have don't mention anything about supporting the engine.

Can anyone confirm please?

Thanks in advance!

Dan
Dan, quite the contrary, you will need to drop the rear of the engine as much as you can. When I took the gearbox out of my Spider I drained the rad and took it out, made sure there was nothing obstructing the rear of the engine, in my case a heater hose and then allowed the weight of the gearbox to rest the top of the cylinder head against the bulkhead, once in this position I used a block of wood under the front of the engine and the cross member to ensure it stayed like it was to aid gearbox replacement. You need that engine tilted back as far as it will go.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Top Down.. is this to get clearance under the car to be able to remove it? I'm working from a pit so have plenty of room underneath

Cheers
 

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Thanks Top Down.. is this to get clearance under the car to be able to remove it? I'm working from a pit so have plenty of room underneath

Cheers
Its to get clearance with the transmission tunnel. Still takes a bit of wangling when the engine is as low as possible at the back. You will also need to remove the 2 studs from the rear of the engine on the engine/gearbox joint
 

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Wot he said ^
 

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I used the rope method to remove my gearbox, a person underneath the car wriggling and pulling and a person on the top taking the weight.

Getting it back on was nothing short of a nightmare, make sure you have a good clutch alignment tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good evening chaps. Apologies for my tardiness in replying to your responses.. just busy. Thank you thus far!!

So as a newby to all this gearbox removal malarky please bear with me... there's a first time for everything! So, I have everything disconected from the g'box and have all the nuts securing g'box housing to engine removed (3 of studs came out with the nuts). The workshop manual didn't say anything about the starter motor but that is free as well. The rear of the g'box is held up with a piece of rope through the tunnel

So taking your advice on tipping the engine back... how is this done? Is it a case of looseing engine mountings and jacking up the front of the engine? Does the crossmember need removing? That looks difficult as all the suspension appears to be fixed to it?

Any pointers please???
 

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No, just keep a couple of bolts holding the gearbox to the engine, release that piece of rope and if you followed my previous post the weight of the gearbox will tip the engine back, no need to remove or loosen the engine mounts, or heaven forbid the crossmember! Once you have the front of the engine blocked off to keep it tilted back start to remove those last two bolts, you can now start to wrestle the gearbox off the back of the engine.

Have a fun Saturday, I'm changing gearbox oil.:rotate:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great advice Top Down.. thank you so much. We tried last night but failed as we hadn't left a couple of bolts holding gearbox to engine so the weight didn't pull the engine down. We have it back in place with top nut (somehow!!) done back up.

My concern still lies with the suspension stopping the dopwnward movement of the back of the engine. Again, please excuse my lack of knowledge, but there is an arm that travels across, underneath the rear of the engine which is almost touching it. I'm worried that this is going to stop the engine from dropping at the rear. I shall now attempt to post a photo....



WooHoo that seemed to work!! Hopefully you can see what I mean. Does this need to be removed?

Unfortunately I have to go away this weekend so will be trying again on Monday night. Have fun with your oil change.. I wish that's all mine was!!

Thanks again :)
 

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Yes, remove the tie rod.
I never remove the back engine studs, they act as a guide for refitting.
Further don't take out the radiator or loosen up the engine mounts.
this is all extra work you don't need to be doing.
Last pro tip: disconnect the shifter from underneath, big time saver
as you don't need to mess with consoles etc.
So it takes me 30 minutes to remove a gearbox.
Goodluck with your progress.
 

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Yes, remove the tie rod.
I never remove the back engine studs, they act as a guide for refitting.
Further don't take out the radiator or loosen up the engine mounts.
this is all extra work you don't need to be doing.
Last pro tip: disconnect the shifter from underneath, big time saver
as you don't need to mess with consoles etc.
So it takes me 30 minutes to remove a gearbox.
Goodluck with your progress.
I like the idea of removing the gear lever from under the car, does it not stop the gearbox dropping enough? I never have had to remove the drag link on a spider, once the top of the cylinder head is up against the bulk head it cant drop any further can it. I suggested removing the rad as the fan gets so close a little extra work is better than a damaged rad core.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ah, so that's the tie rod!! Now I know what it's called I shall remove it with confidence haha! Thank you. Gear lever already removed as I had to remove the centre console anyway as I'm going to recover it and fill in the holes where someone had put loudspeakers.

Love this forum.. thank you... until Monday night... happy weekend all
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Another quick question before I go.. is the tie rod easy to remove or do I need a splitter??
 

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Another quick question before I go.. is the tie rod easy to remove or do I need a splitter??
You'd be better off getting a splitter. You can do it by hammering the side of the joint, but you may damage the boot so I would advise that you invest in a joint splitter
 

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You'd be better off getting a splitter. You can do it by hammering the side of the joint, but you may damage the boot so I would advise that you invest in a joint splitter
Get one like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mekanik-Joint-Splitter-Seperator-20-50mm/dp/B01K1QPB4W/ref=asc_df_B01K1QPB4W/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310764720204&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=729245879495582018&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045816&hvtargid=pla-696109476694&psc=1

The fork type will damage the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Fanfare please!!!



Thank you all so much for your help and advice. It's really appreciated! Not quite sure how it's ever going to go back but that's for another day!

Cheers

Dan
 

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Well done Dan, youve taken the bell housing off, are you going to strip the 'box?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
2nd & 3rd gears making lots of funny noises and some major leaks. Judging by the fact that that there is original colour paint drips on the housing I'm fairly confident that this is the orginal. Going to speak to Classicalfa later about an exchange unit. Safer in the long run I think!
 
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