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Discussion Starter #1
Well as some of you know i have been installing a 16v radiator into my Sud Ti trackcar.
The main reason for this is that the std cooler is a tad bit small and the 16v is about 30% bigger thus that much extra cooling.
This is quite a common mod for some of the AHM race cars (Sprint with 320BHP)
I thought i would give you all an idea of how i went about doing this.

Once you have a 16v radiator you can compare the two and there are quite alot of similarities between the two, but there is also some big differences aswell.

This is what you will need to do to the 16v radiator to make it fit:
- Drill out all of the spot welds for the fan mountings and brackets on the 16v one.
- Carefully prise the brackets off and clean and paint the surfaces
- Cut the lower plastic inlet down so that only 20mm is protruding (the bell end will need to come off due to clearence issues)
Now the radiator will fit in the hole you will cut out.

Line the radiator up and cut out the front rad suppt panel, then you can simple bend up a new panel out of steel (i used galv) and place it in the hole.

Once cut to size the two locating holes can be cut for the rad to slide into.

I also cut out extra mouths which will cool the lower half of the rad.

Obtain a good welder (Julian) and tack into place, it will only need to be tacked as it is not requred that much for strength.

Slide the radiator in and now the top mount will need to be made out of 90 deg alloy with a rubber grommet similar to the std mount. The std one cant be used as it will not allow the rad to sit in deeper. This can be pop riveted to the rad once marked up.

The next major issue is the clearence for the lower inlet, this can be sorted by obtaining a 32mm OD pipe section cut and welded to 40 Deg. This will allow for a 90 deg small rubber pipe to connect the alloy bend and modified original pipe. In addition i cut out some of the cam cover just for extra clearence.

I also pop riveted some alloy to both sides of the top of the rad to allow for two fans which are more efficient than the original ones.
 

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Very neat installation Will be looking to do something similar to my S1 33. Should be even easier as there is no lower body panel.

rsfruitbat
 

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Excellent work.
Was just looking at cutting out the spot welds last night funnily enough to move my 8v rad forward a little to get 2 fans on the back.

16v rad would be nice though as you have done. Maybe in a year or 2. But for now something similar to fit the 2 fans behind.
 

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How did you modify the top middle mounting to move it forward?
Not too sure if I understand how you did it above.

Want to do this but with the standard 8v rad to fit 2 fans.

I think maybe the original bottom mountings can be flattened a little to lower the rad for the top mounting to clear the beam and and extension fitted maybe.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The mount will need to be removed off of the radiator, thus drilling out the three spot welds. Then pop rivet the mount to the the rad so the rad sits closer to the front of the car.
The mount for mine did not have enough material for it to be re mounted so i just fabricated a new one that allowed it to be mounted further forward.
 

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Hi again.

culd you tell me whose fans you have used and what size they are please. I am running two 9" fans from SPAL with one mounted normally and the other mounted in front of the grille blowing through the rad. I am hoping that using your conversion technique the I can fit 2 larger units under the bonnet.

rsfruitbta
 

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thanks fly33boxer.

Yes I see it clearly now.
You can see the spot welds with just a small indentation on the brackets no?
4 on the middle top mounting.
What size drill bit did you use to remove the entire weld area?

Although there doesn't appear to be enough room underneath the top rad plate for the pop rivet to install.
They need about 1cm to pop them in no?
 

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Thanks mate. Didn't know there were special drill bits for this work.

Impossible to find here I bet. I will look at another option, possibly cutting the piece off where the 90 degree bend is and then attaching an extension to the 2 parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks fly33boxer.

Yes I see it clearly now.
You can see the spot welds with just a small indentation on the brackets no?
4 on the middle top mounting.
What size drill bit did you use to remove the entire weld area?

Although there doesn't appear to be enough room underneath the top rad plate for the pop rivet to install.
They need about 1cm to pop them in no?
The pop rivets can be removed by drilling them out or by using the correct tool as someone stated.
There is about 6mm clearence after you drill through both the top and lower plates before you will hit the cooling tubes. So you have enough room for 3-5mm of pop rivet to protrude and once clamped it will go smaller under compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi again.

culd you tell me whose fans you have used and what size they are please. I am running two 9" fans from SPAL with one mounted normally and the other mounted in front of the grille blowing through the rad. I am hoping that using your conversion technique the I can fit 2 larger units under the bonnet.

rsfruitbta
The fans I used are the air conditioner condensor ones from the 33's. These are the thinest fan on the market and cool more efficiently than the standard ones.
 

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another way to do it depends on the type of rad you can get,
i had chance to get an "old school" rad, ie copper end tanks. i went for that as they are easier to repair than the alloy / plastic type, and easier to modify!

i had the lower inlet moved to sit at 45 deg to the end tank, that allowed a much more shallow connection bend to be used. I also routed the hose around and over keeping it all as close to the head as possible and without any humps to trap air.it looks like it touches the cam belt cover in the photo but there is about 1/4 inch gap there. i will also give that a bit more before it goes on the road as i need to drain the coolant from the rad to add the correct amount of antifreeze

where the rad comes down behind the front panel i cut all that away, to let air thru it, no point in that extra rad area if there is not air going across it! i also left a fair space below for the oil cooler - still yet to be finished,

hope theres some ideas for people to use,
 

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Guys:

What kind of solid plastic piping can i use for connections/bends?

Would standard hot water plumbers pvc pipe do or will it not withstand the heat?
 

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i used metal pipe, think it was 32 mm out side dia if i remember correctly,
not sure if plastic plumbers pipe would be reliable, also you need barbs or bevels at the end to help the hose locate and not slide of under pressure
 

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Seeing all you guys that have done this mod, I cant but help to think that a custom made silicone hose could be made upto do the job in one uniform part, instead of connectors and various bends of rubber hose.

I understand that you bend up a piece of tubing that is the ID of the hose you want, take it to a manufacturer and they wrap it in as many plys as you want (3ply is normal) and you can choose colour - black, red, blue, green etc. They bake it to cure the rubber and you have a bespoke hose...probably a bit costly but silicone lasts.
 

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Seeing all you guys that have done this mod, I cant but help to think that a custom made silicone hose could be made up to do the job in one uniform part, instead of connectors and various bends of rubber hose.

I understand that you bend up a piece of tubing that is the ID of the hose you want, take it to a manufacturer and they wrap it in as many plys as you want (3ply is normal) and you can choose colour - black, red, blue, green etc. They bake it to cure the rubber and you have a bespoke hose...probably a bit costly but silicone lasts.
 

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Seeing all you guys that have done this mod, I cant but help to think that a custom made silicone hose could be made up to do the job in one uniform part, instead of connectors and various bends of rubber hose.

I understand that you bend up a piece of tubing that is the ID of the hose you want, take it to a manufacturer and they wrap it in as many plys as you want (3ply is normal) and you can choose colour - black, red, blue, green etc. They bake it to cure the rubber and you have a bespoke hose...probably a bit costly but silicone lasts.
100% agree with you there, when i get a chance i will take the hosing i made up with sections and have a single hose made, and in fact the rest of them while im there,
thing is, i had to make a hose first to know what shape works lol kinda catch 22!
:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Seeing all you guys that have done this mod, I cant but help to think that a custom made silicone hose could be made up to do the job in one uniform part, instead of connectors and various bends of rubber hose.

I understand that you bend up a piece of tubing that is the ID of the hose you want, take it to a manufacturer and they wrap it in as many plys as you want (3ply is normal) and you can choose colour - black, red, blue, green etc. They bake it to cure the rubber and you have a bespoke hose...probably a bit costly but silicone lasts.
Double post......:vomit:
Yes it is already on the cards, was looking the other night for a silicon solution similar to my fuel pipe.
 

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100% agree with you there, when i get a chance i will take the hosing i made up with sections and have a single hose made, and in fact the rest of them while im there,
thing is, i had to make a hose first to know what shape works lol kinda catch 22!
:rolleyes:
All silicone hoses, wow that would be a good idea!
 
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