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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if it actually needs doing, but the bearing isn't sounding too cool!


How hard if this to change, just a clutch kit for now!

I've done an engine rebuild......does it get much technical?


Anyone got any instructions on how to do this? And what do I need to take out to get to the stupid thing? Am I best just giving it to a garage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Really that bader job to do? I can easily take the engine off the mounts and shift it do the side, take the suspension out etc gear box side. I here it's hard to separate the gear box from the engine tho. Really don't wanna spent £600 doing this job tbh.
 

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Sounds complicated for me - front discs and pads are my limit!

As you say you've rebuilt the engine so how hard can a clutch be. You should go for it especially if you have use of another car so it doesn't matter if the car is off the road if you hit any snags. My problem would be getting access to the underside of the car as I don't have a garage with a hydraulic ramp. I wouldn't fancy lying in a driveway with the car up on axle stands!
 

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Never changed the clutch on a 166 but having spent the last couple of weekends doing a clutch change on my Mk1 on the driveway using A. Stands and ramps; suggest the following before starting.
1. Engine hoist to manouver the engine to get the gearbox out then back in past the wishbone/chassis arms etc.
2. Without the above, at least 2 high lift jacks to support engine and gearbox.
3. Fence post cut down to bridge two inner wings and H.Duty rope or better still a ratchet & webbing strap to support engine when unsupported by engine/gearbox mounts.
4. Correct drive bits to undo the driveshaft bolts and make very sure they are clean before attempting to release them, (do not round them).
5. CV Joint grease to repack the joints on re-assembly.
6. Consider new gearbox mounts if you suspect still on originals.
7. Pay special attention as you remove the gearbox on the position of the nearest driveshaft, so after re-assembly of the new clutch you do not end up with the driveshaft jammed in the wrong position!
8. You will need a mate to give you help during the removal and refit, ideally two.
9. Centering tool for aligning the pressure plate and clutch.
10. Label EVERY electrical connection and earth strap that you disconnect!
Suggest you take advise on whether with gearbox removed you also change some or all of the following, Crankshaft rear seal, Input shaft seal, Main shaft seal and Main shaft bearing. Consider also changing the gear selection bushes as some you will be disconnecting anyway to release the gearbox.
If you take the job on it would be very helpful to others if you posted up progress pics and descriptions.
Good luck (Fortes fortuna adiuvat 0:thumbs:)
 

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You can do a 1.2 bravo clutch on the runway wie a couple of bottle jacks and monoblock bricks to keep it off the deck but there is clearance there .Dont think there is the same room on a 166 .Possibly easier dropping the lot.
Pomeo
 

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Anesh, is it necessary to remove the subframe, or can you get away with just moving the box out of the way a bit while the clutch is swapped over?

It's the subframe removal that concerns me most, the rest I have done before, but removing that big frame while I am underneath it worries me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I didn't bother taking off the sub frame. You need to make the room tho. I took everything thing off the gear box eg slave, cables etc etc. Drive shaft (ask me about this later!!! Ill forget to give you a tip for this!)

Do you want me to post a guide? Do you have the special spanner?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i love you style 'esh - getting stuck in is the way to go....shouldn't be too tricky for somebody as handy with the spanners as you :D
I didn't wanna do it lol, the RAC said I can drive it back to your house or a garage. I was way to hungry to deal with driving to a garage and getting home and all that haha.

It's a pain to do, not rocket science tho. You will need two people tho.
 

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I have the 166 DTE disc, but that seems to suggest taking off the subframe. I forgot to see what spanner they used for the starter motor, I seem to recall lots of extension bars and going in through the drivers side wheel arch was the way to do it, is that a viable option?
 
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