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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello 166 forum members I've a big problem for my first tech post!

I have a 166 3.0 auto 1999 model and have just changed the cambelt, bearings and tensioner plus the water pump, thermostat and spark plugs. I used Eldon camlocks and crank timing was set with the marks on the flexplate (flywheel) but when I went to start the car after finishing these jobs it does sort of run but isn't happy almost like it's trying to run on 4 cylinders, and the fuel injector warning light came on.

The car ran very well before I did these jobs!

One thing which confused me and set alarm bells ringing was because I discovered before I removed the old belt that the crankshaft was originally set at about 15 degrees btdc and that the flywheel mark was about 6cm or 7cm before the viewing window in the bell housing. However when I checked the No1 piston it was down the bore and was still coming up as I rotated the engine so I assumed the timing had been set incorrectly in the past - even though the engine ran fine.

I confirmed that No1 piston tdc coincided with the mark on the flywheel by watching the motion of a metal tube down the No.1 spark plug hole.

The four camshafts didn't require any adjustment as they were all in correct relative orientation as confirmed by the camlocks.

Once I finished the job and started the engine it didn’t run well, I checked around and found I’d forgotten to plug in a harness into the throttle body. Once I plugged this in and tried again it still ran poorly.

The question I have is have I set the timing wrong and is the fuel injector warning light coming on related to the timing possibly now being way out?

I hope someone can help solve this riddle.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Further to my post the problem did turn out to be caused by trying to start the engine without the wiring harness plugged into the motorised throttle body. The codes thrown up prevented the engine running correctly. Once they were deleted using multiecuscan then he engine ran fine. The fuel injector warning light is like an earlier version of the modern check engine light.
 

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Thanks for the update AR! And kudos for doing the job in the first place-it's not one for a novice
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lots of great threads on the cambelt job on this site, in fact all the formation I needed to complete the job I got from this site.
After having tackled the job I'd recommend doing it correctly using the camlock tools rather than just marking up the old belt, transferring those marks to the new belt and installing without loosening off the four cam sprockets and setting the engine to TDC etc. Takes a bit longer but once you're into it it's pretty straight forward. Replace everything, I would also seriously urge you to change the 4 'o' rings on the water transfer pipe from the back of the water pump to the thermostat housing (2 at each end of the pipe); change the thermostat too. The pipe on this vehicle was a bit rusty along the bottom edge so it was a chance to clean it up and repaint it. It is easily removed once the water pump is off by pulling it directly out via the wheel well. It's only held in place by friction from the rubber 'o' rings.
Good luck, it's an interesting job just give yourself 3 or 4 days to complete it carefully.
 

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Kudos Roger
 
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