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i have a black 1995 164 cloverleaf, and the MOT people don't like the rear cross member which they say is buckled, (ie up towards the plastic petrol tank) and a little corroded. I have purchased a replacement one from alfa rusper (near gatwick), rust free, and it looks exactly the same. should the rear cross-members be absolutely flat, or curved slightly on the underside? also, does it matter? i can have the crossmember pressed flat and then welded up again, with thicker metal. if i have the second one done aswell, is anyone interested in acquiring it as a spare? they don't seem to be available new anymore.
 

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I may very well be, got my MOT on Tuesday and suspect it's going to fail on that as it's been on the way out for a couple of years and I've been trying to get hold of one. I guess it's going to depend on how vigourous the tester is with his biro and where he pokes it!

I replaced the one on my TSpark a couple of years ago and had no problem getting hold of one then. Don't know if V6 and TSpark is the same, but that one was flat.
 

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Lots of them are buckled as it is a convenient place to lift a car using a trolley jack!
They need to be seriously weakened by rust to be a fail point ,IE liable to structurally fail .Surface rust shouldnt be an issue.Scrape it off and hammerite it!
 

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Im changing the springs on my super this weekend so ill check out the cross member while im at it
 

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Fergus164

The rear cross member should be slighty curved I had to buy a new one it came in a black primer and I treated it with about 4 coats of red oxide 3 coats of Black Hammerite paint inside and outside then I gave a good covering in Wurth stoneguard. before I had it fitted to the car.
If it was just left with primer as it came from Alfa romeo I reckon it would have rusted away within a couple of years the thickness of the metal was not that great even on a brand new one.
From memory I had to get the rear wheels retracked and alined with the front wheels once the rear cross member was refitted.

Mick
 

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Mine was remarked upon at MOT one year and I asked my mechanic about it. He said that they can appear quite manky but do not however lose their strenth. He advised me to rub of the surface rust and re-proof with waxoyle which I did (the black undercoat stuff).
It hasn't been picked up at all since then so unless it is clearly corroded and weak I suggest you have a go doing what I did.

Good luck

Gerlad
 

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The other top-trick with these is for MOT stations to lift the car here and end up with the jack in the way of the radius arms....so as the wheels come off the ground, the road springs bear down and bend the radius arms. Muppets......
 

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annoyingly happened to me. Once i wasn't aware till it came to MOT, another I didn't see it happen, though bent the arm that much that as soon as the car reversed out the garage you could hear the arm rubbing on the cross member (so they paid for the repair :) )

I took some photos of the brand new cross member that was fitted to mine earlier in the year, if you want to compare it.


 

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just refurbed mine while I was fitting the rear springs (Thanks for those Dex) i fitted the spings this weekend finally finished the rears last night.The bolts that run throught the bottom of the shocks were seized on the drivers side and ended up taking the suspension rod bushing out with the longer bolt. It felt like it was welded together.
While I was at it i refurbished the rear brakes with new pads and freed up the calipers and fitted a new suspension arm.
The cross member had a bit of surface rust on so lowered it cleaned it up and smothered it in waxoil.
Its going in for its mot next week so cant wait
 
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