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Discussion Starter #1
Well, what can I say? I'm doomed.

I've got 2 Alfa’s parked dead in the garage and I'm back in the Jetta that somehow survived it crash.

Now the oil pressure keeps dropping out after it runs for a bit. As the engine temp climbs the oil pressure drops. As she reaches full temp the low pressure warning light comes on. Before that it starts to feel very rough. Plus the exhaust manifold leak is back. Started to do a investigation, but I don't have the tools to get the sump off. Also found a totally shredded engine mount.

I just don't know what to do. Time to go get a City Golf and set both Alfas on fire!?
Braai anyone?
 

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Hi talking of golf my uncle had same fault on his car oil pickup got clogged after 15 years (regularly serviced with GTX:vomit:) I believe sludge caused the blockage.
 

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Hi talking of golf my uncle had same fault on his car oil pickup got clogged after 15 years (regularly serviced with GTX:vomit:) I believe sludge caused the blockage.
And the Castrol GTX add says sludge is engine cholesterol :lol:
 

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Hi talking of golf my uncle had same fault on his car oil pickup got clogged after 15 years (regularly serviced with GTX:vomit:) I believe sludge caused the blockage.
That’s normal on the VW his actually lasted long. Probably thanks to regular servicing.
 

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Did you change the oil like we discussed yesterday.
With the Gotech and all the dead coils you will definitely have a lot of fuel in the sump.
Maybe grasping at straws but worth while checking I just hope that the bearings didn’t get damaged by the oil and fuel mixture in the sump. If they did as long as thee cranks fine you can replace the bearings without removing the crank.

This should be a warning for all of us if you had dead coils for a while change the oil since all that unburned fuel washed into the sump. The same with aftermarket management change the oil more often since they do tend to waste more fuel into the sump
 

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Dude how do you manage to get such bad luck?

Hope it's sorted soon
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did you change the oil like we discussed yesterday.
With the Gotech and all the dead coils you will definitely have a lot of fuel in the sump.
Maybe grasping at straws but worth while checking I just hope that the bearings didn’t get damaged by the oil and fuel mixture in the sump. If they did as long as thee cranks fine you can replace the bearings without removing the crank.

This should be a warning for all of us if you had dead coils for a while change the oil since all that unburned fuel washed into the sump. The same with aftermarket management change the oil more often since they do tend to waste more fuel into the sump
Not yet, I need to go pick up a oil filter and that means getting away from work for over an hour. I'm hopeing to get one today.


Dude how do you manage to get such bad luck?

Hope it's sorted soon
Dude I wish I knew, I'd do something about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi guys.

Sorry for the lack of updates TN.

I got the oil changed without stripping the whole engine out. but only just. I needed to buy some tools and make some to get this done.

The fresh oil has alleviated the problem. The pressure doesn't drop to critical levels anymore, but it does still drop as the engine warms up.

She is very down on power, but the exhaust manifold on the front of the motor is leaking again, so that could explain the loss in power. The engine mounts are shot and the engine is moving around far too much.

Do you guys think I would be able to get new mounts or do I need to try and get these reconditioned?

Also that manifold has been repaired before and now it's cracked again, should I be looking for a replacement or fixing it again?
 

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Where did the manifold crack?

If the engine do not move around as much under torque, with new engine mounts, the manifold may be up to it after a repair.

I have no experience with reconditioned engine mounts.
 
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The oil pressure will be as high as 7 bar when engine is cold at 2500 rpm that's why you never rev a cold engine. As engine reaches operating temp at80-90 degrees the oil pressure can even drop to 1 bar at idle but MUST shoot up to at least 4 bar at 4000rpm .
As far as i know that car has new engine mounts . Check the bolt has not come loose on top engine mount .
Eveyone has their preference for oil but note every engine is designed for a specific oil as the have different clearances . If you put the oil from your 164 into a yaris you will run a bearing and vice versa .
I have just moved over to castrol edge sport with advice from TRAcKMan as I was losing pressure in race car after 10 hard laps .
Like mobile 1 is a great oil it simply does not work in my car as it's to thin , it smokes and it uses a lot of oil while a cheap Shell 20w50 works perfectly for road use . Also a shell 15w 40 is also good for road use .
 

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Remember I gave u a lower engine mount with the car, that is the hydrolic mount and should sort the movement , also check the dogbone mount on top of motor, I usually replace this one witha teflon mount as OEM ones dont last long, the shot mounts are definitely the reason for the cracked manifold, my previous 164 had masive engine movement when the lower hydromount was shot and caused the intake pipe to tear and exhaust to leak, PS with all that movement, recheck that intake pipe, I did strenghthen it but with that much movement it could tear.
Hope u get her sorted soon!
 
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Warning : only get oil filter for the 164 from a dealer. The 164 3.0 24v compared to all the other newer 3.0 24v motors on spider , gtv gt have a different thread filter . This was the biggest c*ck up alfa made. This even confused the chap who made the GUD filter charts . ( I am not sure if GUD corrected this . This happened to me 5 hrs ago)
Because the filter is in such a bad position it feels perfects that the filter is on because you are basically turning it with the tips of your fingers . Meanwhile it's NOT and some 10 km down the road it blows straight off and as a result I lost an entire engine.
The one type is a 16 - 3/8 pitch and the other is a 1. 75 ( I think) . You can't put the164 type onto then newer alfa motor but you can vice versa .
 

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We had this discussion before he bought the filter.
It seems like all the motors with external oil coolers use the thinner pipe and if you use the normal filter the motor will reject it. If you are lucky immediately if not somewhere next to the road.
 

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Hi guys.

Sorry for the lack of updates TN.

I got the oil changed without stripping the whole engine out. but only just. I needed to buy some tools and make some to get this done.

The fresh oil has alleviated the problem. The pressure doesn't drop to critical levels anymore, but it does still drop as the engine warms up.

She is very down on power, but the exhaust manifold on the front of the motor is leaking again, so that could explain the loss in power. The engine mounts are shot and the engine is moving around far too much.

Do you guys think I would be able to get new mounts or do I need to try and get these reconditioned?

Also that manifold has been repaired before and now it's cracked again, should I be looking for a replacement or fixing it again?
That’s good news :thumbs: what oil did you use for the test?
If all seems fine you can change to Edge since it works best on the Alfas.

Especially with aftermarket management rather change the oil often. They always waste a lot of fuel into the oil no matter what.
If you are still setting up change it before you take it for a Dyno and afterwards to be safe.
Oil is expensive but a lot cheaper than a motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Where did the manifold crack?
It’s the forward facing one and it’s just where it bolts to the head on the outside of the curve as it bends down.

The engine mounts are not in good shape.

The oil pressure will be as high as 7 bar when engine is cold at 2500 rpm that's why you never rev a cold engine. As engine reaches operating temp at80-90 degrees the oil pressure can even drop to 1 bar at idle but MUST shoot up to at least 4 bar at 4000rpm .
Thank you! This info has really put my mind at ease. This is exactly how it is behaving now after the oil change. The only part is I have never seen oil pressure get a high as 7, but it idles at about 4 when cold. It’s drops as low as 1.5 / 2 ish @ idle when hot.


Remember I gave u a lower engine mount with the car, that is the hydrolic mount and should sort the movement , also check the dogbone mount on top of motor, I usually replace this one witha teflon mount as OEM ones dont last long, the shot mounts are definitely the reason for the cracked manifold, my previous 164 had masive engine movement when the lower hydromount was shot and caused the intake pipe to tear and exhaust to leak, PS with all that movement, recheck that intake pipe, I did strenghthen it but with that much movement it could tear.
Hope u get her sorted soon!
That one you gave me with the car, which of the lower ones is it? The one just forward of the driver’s wheel is totally messed up and I’m not super happy with the one below where the oil filter is.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That’s good news :thumbs: what oil did you use for the test?
If all seems fine you can change to Edge since it works best on the Alfas.

Especially with aftermarket management rather change the oil often. They always waste a lot of fuel into the oil no matter what.
If you are still setting up change it before you take it for a Dyno and afterwards to be safe.
Oil is expensive but a lot cheaper than a motor.
I did it with the Liqui Moly that Frost had in it when I got it. So no need to swop it again.
That is this one: Top Tech 4100
 

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We have some new 164 bits on the shelf at the shop including mountings and shocks so you should come have a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sweet! I'm back @ work, but I'll make a plan.
I need to take a day and get some stuf done so I'll make a plan then.
 
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