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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone or has anyone remember how the thrust bearing should fit to the clutch, and then of course the forks, does anyone have some pics as to set up. My engine having had a rebuild had the gearbox off and clutch replaced and put back together thinking everything was alright but somewow the clutch lever is going nowhere stuck between the compression and neutral so something in my setup has gone wrong, I am thinking the forks are not engaged in the carrier, of course the has happened when the engine is finally installed in the bay!

If I was to turn the engine by hand would the forks of the clutch rod re-engage into the carrier, or is this wishful thinking?
 

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Does anyone or has anyone remember how the thrust bearing should fit to the clutch, and then of course the forks, does anyone have some pics as to set up. My engine having had a rebuild had the gearbox off and clutch replaced and put back together thinking everything was alright but somewow the clutch lever is going nowhere stuck between the compression and neutral so something in my setup has gone wrong, I am thinking the forks are not engaged in the carrier, of course the has happened when the engine is finally installed in the bay!

If I was to turn the engine by hand would the forks of the clutch rod re-engage into the carrier, or is this wishful thinking?
Hi alfapat :thumbs:

The bearing locks into the pressure plate (has a locking ring that snaps into position in the centre of the pressure plate). The clutch action works in the reverse of standard cutches (pulls instead of pushing in order to release/change gear).

Fitting the bearing woud be as follows:
1. locate the bearing onto the fork (from inside the bell housing, the lever/fork must be released by undoing the retaining bolt - this will allow the fork to move freely, and enable you to feed the fork into the slot at the rear of the bearing).
2. reposition the rod/fork and refit the bolt.
3. Fit the gearbox back onto the engine (allign/mate and then loosly fit a couple of the fixing bolts.
4. You now have to get the bearing to snap/lock into the centre ring of the presure plate by either:
a. pull the clutch lever shaply toward the passenger inner wing (you may/will have to do this a few times until you hear the bearing snap/lock into position),
OR
b. the way I normally do it - position a long bar in front of (engine side) of the clutch lever so that you can brace the lower end of the bar against the bell housing and the lever. Now you can pull on the top of the bar to force the lever toward the passenger side untill you hear/feel the bearing snap/lock into position in the pressure plate centre ring.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks for your reply, jst managed to pull out the box today and discover what I had done, my problem thinking that the clutch operation was as most worked, being pushed not pulled. I put the bearing under a press as it was attached of course to the pressure plate and release it , biggest problem however was to split it from the circlip, I manage how to do this with an ingenious method , so ready to refit and snap back in.
 

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Many thanks for your reply, jst managed to pull out the box today and discover what I had done, my problem thinking that the clutch operation was as most worked, being pushed not pulled. I put the bearing under a press as it was attached of course to the pressure plate and release it , biggest problem however was to split it from the circlip, I manage how to do this with an ingenious method , so ready to refit and snap back in.
Enlighten us Pat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah well before I do, this happened, I had to take the b****y gearbox off again something happened to the plan I had, the fork got jammed in some way so drew back the box so much and realigned the forks, I think they found themselves out of the carrier. So as I pushed the box back min wayching what I could, it now works normally, the carrier had snapped back in place, but don,t think the forkswere held in the proper location.
The ingenious bit was to break up four small lengths of hacksaw blades and tap them down the outside of the circlip this makes it hide into the inner carrier and the two parts just slide out nice as you like!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update, things are going reasonably smoothly , a bit of 3 steps forward and two back, I never knew there was so many parts to this engine bay and half of them are missing!
Thought I was moving along well again and just done the driveshafts and noticed the passenger steering boot was perished, if only I had seen this before I put the engine in. Has anyone got one of these?
 

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Update, things are going reasonably smoothly , a bit of 3 steps forward and two back, I never knew there was so many parts to this engine bay and half of them are missing!
Thought I was moving along well again and just done the driveshafts and noticed the passenger steering boot was perished, if only I had seen this before I put the engine in. Has anyone got one of these?
Hi alfapat

Is that the big one?

If so, I may have one of them (I can remember that I bought a set for my old 164 and only used the small one) - I will check in the morning and let you know.

:thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Any tips appreciated if I get this boot as the best way to fit this apart from removing the steering arm and unscrewing it , its getting the tie wrap secured that going to be the pig!
 

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Any tips appreciated if I get this boot as the best way to fit this apart from removing the steering arm and unscrewing it , its getting the tie wrap secured that going to be the pig!
Patience ;)

It would, obviously, have been easier to do when the box was out; but it can be done with everything in situe. Just takes time.

I will write more tomorrow when i see what I have. :thumbs:
 

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Hi alfapat

Well, I have had a look and I can report that..............

:thumbs: I found it!!

I have evrything for the passenger side (boot, nut, nut cover, rubber gasket and clip) all genuine. As I said before, bought the kit but I only used the drivers side boot.

The one thing that I have noticed is that the metal clip (that goes round the big end of the boot) is not a type that I have ever used for these boots normaly (this one looks like a very big orig hose clip - the ones that you need a pincer tool to tighten), any that I had previously used were a long band that you would lock (with tabs) and then bend back on themselves.

If I were you, I would see if I could get hold of a very long (around 12-15 inch), 1/4 inch wide cable tie and see if that could be used on the big end (would be easier to do up in the limited space) - or see if the original designed band was still available from the dealers.

Anyway, pm me your address and I will get it sent off to you tomorrow. :thumbs:
 

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Alfapat

Emergency parcel on its way to you. :thumbs:

Let me know when you receive it (don't know how long it will take - as it is going to a foreign country ;) ).
 

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Does it have export license??????????:lol:
:eek: ... that got me worried, so I enquired about it today ......

I have been reliably informed that royal mail no longer requires me to have an export licence to send items to your country :thumbs:

Due to the history of 'red tape' required for previous transactions between our two countries, a new set of 'international trading practices' had been drawn up:

' all packages will be left outside the back gate of Hadrian's Wall - under a big stone; on the left hand side (for deliveries) and on the right (for collections)'.

:cheese:

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I will lay a net for the postie in the morning then, how much?
OH best scource for clutch slave delivered next day, any ideas?
Shop4parts look good but do you know of anything else?
 
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