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164 3.0l v6 1989.

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1989 30l
5K views 44 replies 6 participants last post by  Avocet 
#1 ·
i am just happy.today i got a fully working 164 3 litre v6 for free.dont know what to do with it but ill ad it to my collection of 156s 155 and 147.maybe ill bring it to mondello next spring or maybe i ll try swap the engine in my 155 silverstone if possible.:cheese:
 
#2 ·
I think you might find it's the best Alfa you've got :D
 
#7 ·
You're a berry lucky man keep it in one piece it will put a real grin on your face :D
As I said you'll fall in love once it's sorted.
All the torque of your diesel and all the rev range of a beautiful V6 :cool:
 
#9 ·
Apart from the heavy clutch (it is manual right) and the torque steer (although that can be fun!) I drove a 91 for 5 years and still would love to be reunited and put it away....
(Yes I have tried!)
:lol:
 
#10 ·
and the first problem arise; 3 brake lines bursted from rust on the firewall beneath the engine and between the steering rack and firewall.now with this v6 its litterally no space to reach them from the top and nor from underneath.i could barrely see them with a torch.just dont want to remove the engine for 3 brake pipes any advise will be very welcome. its a manual yes and i dont find the clutch heavy actually the same as my 2.0l 156 wich never had a clutch replace since 1999.
 
#11 ·
That's a strange place for them to go? Are you sure they're not rotten elsewhere too?

If it were my new ride, I think I'd start by having a really good poke round the rear jacking points, wheel arches, rear subframe (crossmember) and front jacking points. That'll give you a good idea of whether it's worth attacking the brake pipes.

If you want to do them, take the plenum off (very easy) and the false firewall between the back of the engine and the heater box. That will give you much better access to the pipes behind the engine. While you're at it, there are rubber fuel hoses in that area that could usefully be changed (engine bay fires are not unknown on 164s)! WHATEVER you do, don't be tempted to drive it much more until you've changed the can belt!!!! It will be well and truly on borrowed time and it will ruin your whole day if it snaps!
 
#12 ·
t belt on order already,rust not so bad for nearly 30 yers old car,jack points? well i lifted wit a 3 tonn jack to 2 feet today and its holding well, just a little bit off rust as my 95 silverstone has as well not dangerous.drove it again today with the hand brake by god this car spins the wheel in 3rd like on ice.i decided i lyke it.
 
#13 ·
Think your best bet with the brake pipes is to get at them through the driver sie wheel arch . But this means removing the aux belt and the power steering pump I am doing mine too in the next couple of days so will have a good look as at the mo I don'have any heads or pump or manifold but got a feeling you may need to get the steering rack out but you can do it without removing the engine. You may well need to get at both sides from the arches but I'll get back to you after the weekend as thats my main job for bthis week.:cry:
 
#14 ·
Loadsatorque!!!

I have to say, the Busso V6 is reckoned to be one of the all-time greats where petrol engines are concerned!

A new set of tyres with a bit more grip will help. One disadvantage of having a right hand drive 164 V6 is that there's very little weight on the left hand front wheel, and it is quite easy to smoke that tyre in the lower gears.
 
#16 ·
Try and register on here too as this is the font of all knowledge on 164's really handy to have :thumbs:

Alfa Romeo 164 Register.com • Alfa Romeo 164 Register

You can get to the pipes they are push cliped in just above the steering rack on the lower bulk head. You will need to remove both side wheels and arch covers and the access is not good but doable.
They all go to the abs block just under the air box. I will get some pics sorted tomorrow if we don't have a deluge as forecast :thumbs:
 
#18 ·
The only real way to combat the torque steer to any effective degree would be to fit a Q2/Quaiffe diff but thats in the region of £600.
It is the biggest issue with the 164 is torque steer but the grip is very dependant on the tyre quality. I've got midrange budgets on mine and its hopeless in the wet.
 
#19 ·
As suggested above, if you want to enjoy the car on any long term basis and before any more tyre shredding get the timing belt changed and at the same time have the auxiliary belt checked, if its in bad condition and lets go it will take your new timing belt with it.

Regards the torque steer, unless its a wet road or your in a field, if the front 3mm spacers are insitu and the springs and bushes are complete and in good condition it should not be such a problem.
Check the above are present and their condition. I would'nt be surprised if you have at least one broken spring, perished front lower arm bushes and bent rear tie rods all of which detract from the overall handling package which is surprisingly superb when set up correctly.

These can be robust cars, but its bound to need a bit of attention if its previous owner left it in a field for x years, then gave it away!

If your planning on keeping it perhaps also check the following.
1. Fuse (blade type) in the boot next to the battery, it protects the rear windscreen heater but they have a habit of melting, replace.
2. Remove the fuse for the sunroof, known issue that has resulted in tears, blue lights and melted interiors.

Good luck.
 
#20 ·
today had it parked next to my 155 in a corner of my garage where will stay for some time till i finnish replacing the belts brake lines some welding to the exaust and the driver door handle[its not working outside and inside], was even thinking of painting her black or alfa red but the wife said she likes that type of blue.ps the stink of the exaust its like pure petroleum or boiler kerosene think its the half tank of 6 years old petrol
 
#21 ·
Definately worth checking the rear shock and spring as this caused floaty handlig at motorway speeds when I first got mine took a front suspension, arm and bush rebuild to realise it was the rear shock on the rear right side causing the problem it made the front come up too much under power and it felt awful.
 
#22 ·
Good call on the fuse in the boot. I nearly had a car fire like that once! Luckily, just acrid smoke. Could have been a whole lot worse...

Wheelspin isn't THAT much of a problem with a half-decent set of tyres. They go hard with age, so yours will be like Bakelite by now! I tried a taller profile on one of my 164s - waste of time and made the straight line high-speed stability pretty horrible. Couldn't wait to get rid of them!
Seriously, I did just under 300 miles in mine today and couldn't break traction in 2nd or higher. Even in 1st, it needed a fair bit of provocation - though once you do "light up" the nearside tyre, it's very easy to keep it smoking.
Torque-steer is a problem on them. I find they're pretty sensitive to tracking (they run a bit of toe-OUT at the front). Polyurethane bushes on the REAR of the front wishbones seem to make a difference too. As has been said, the wheel spacers make a difference. Some sorts of tyre are worse than others for torque-steer. I liked Bridestone Expedias, but it's a while since I had them. Of the "budget" tyres, so far, I've liked the Kuhmo KU31 tyres the best. Currently on Falken ZE914 tyres. They're "ok", but I preferred the Kumhos.

Odd that it's sitting HIGH! All the springs in mine have always sagged (must lay off the pies)! I've just replaced some KYB front springs with Suplex. Will see how they go. The car would bottom-out at the back with half a tank of fuel, and a 2 and a 4 year old in the back! I fitted a pair of rear springs from a 24V car and they were much better - (bit too high at the back now, in fact).
 
#24 ·
Sorry its rained on and off all day so not had a chance dry tomorrow I hope as Not been able to do mine either will let you know as soon as I can.:thumbs:
 
#25 ·
Have you managed to get the door open yet. Is it just the drivers door thats stuck.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Hi hope these help
Top pipe is the fuel pipe
next down is the clutch master cyl
then the right hand front brake pipe
the 2 below are the rear pipes that go under the chassis to the limiter valve on the rear.
They all go to the abs on the left of the engine bay.
On the unity they are :
VL (left front )
VR (right front)
HR (right rear)
HL (left rear)

The 2 at the bottom front of the abs unit come from the brake master cyl left side bulk head.
 
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