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I am pretty sure they are more prone to cambelt issues than the later 24V unit fitted to GTV's, 166's etc so the change interval is shorter.

This is because the waterpump is driven by the cambelt itself, not the auxillary belt as on later engines.

Other than that they are pretty strong as far as I know.
 

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Cambelt coverage on the rear most cam pulley is far less with the 164 24v than the later GTV/156/166 24v engines.
Because of that the 164 24v is more prone to the cambelt jumping.
Also, I'm sure the cambelt tensioners for the 164 24v are no longer available...
 

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Hi folks

'Cambelt jumping' sounds interesting :eek:

Any mods that can be carried out to minimise the risk of this happening :confused: Does it usually happen at higher mileages (ie approaching belt-change time), or is it a luck-of-the-draw type of failure?

Cheers :thumbs:

Paul
I would guess that changing the cambelt more often would help eliminate the potential belt slip issue.

You might be better off looking at a Later 24v V6 from a GTV or 166
 

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Usual issue with the early 24V slipping cambelt is at cold start, typically when the engine is raced on startup. The belt also drives the oil pump on this engine, so as noted, the wrap around the rear bank exhaust cam is woefully poor so they tend to jump one or two teeth. One tooth fine, it'll just run a bit rough. 2 or more...bent valve time. A good tensioner is critical...and you can't get new ones. If I was using one of those motors now, I'd probably opt for a static tensioner mod personally. Replace the tensioner with a bolt and locknut arrangment. Static tensioners on 12V motors have long been proven to work well - no reason why not on the 24V. Of course, ensure the ilder and tensioner bearings are in good order.

Waterpump is driven by accessory belt as on all Busso V6 engines, pumps are fine as long as they have a metal impeler, but it's always worth swapping it if you are doing the cambelt unless you KNOW it's only done limited duty. FWIW, I took the original pump of my old 155 V6 at 117k miles and it was just starting to get a bit grumbly so wouldn't have lasted much longer.

24V accessory belt idlers are hard/impossible to find as well I think. Not the end of the world, but just a bit more joy.....

Crank damper can delaminate, although it's rare. Keyway can wear as well, again, rare.

Valve guides and seals at big miles of course.

Seen more than one 24V with a shot bottom end. Seems to be something of a Busso weakness, or perhaps just poor servicing???

Typical Alfa thermostat issues of course.

Some parts getting hard to come by.

Probably about it I think....any more anyone??

Given a choice, I too would opt for the latest possible version - 166 or late GTV ideal. Or GTA of course....

That said, as long as the cambelt stays put, nowt wrong with the 164 24V motor.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Looks like I visited the right site for advice!

I originally wanted a 3.2 GTA engine but was told it would be too fiddly and awkward to convert for rwd use :(

I believe my engine was previously in a 164 Q4; hopefully, during the re-build, all mods & updates were applied to make it a little more reliable....only time will tell....

Thanks for your all of your help :thumbs:
 

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alfagtv6.com is the website for all your 116 transaxle questions including 24 valve conversions for the gtv6
iwas going to go down this route but opoted for the 75 v6 transplant much simpler just plug in and play
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
alfagtv6.com is the website for all your 116 transaxle questions including 24 valve conversions for the gtv6
iwas going to go down this route but opoted for the 75 v6 transplant much simpler just plug in and play

Thanks FH :thumbs:

I've already tried to register with AlfaGTV6.com but have not had my account activation email from them yet (I registered on 6 Jan) :( How long do they usually take to activate :confused: I've had email confirmation of my username and password; only need to be activated now.


UPDATE: as at 6.30pm, I'm now activated & good to go :thumbs: :cool:
 
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