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Discussion Starter #1
The NSR window went crunch as I closed it yesterday. Took the door card off and found the steel cable had somehow dislodged itself from the plastic "shuttle" (the white part clipped to the glass). Further disassembly revealed that the cable itself had become tangled around the spindle itself, throwing everything out of whack. Have managed to get everything back into a closed position and have disconnected the motor to prevent accidental operation.

I've ordered a repair kit from ebay, which includes the "shuttle", cable and springs. I have a good idea how everything goes back together, but I'm a little unsure as to the correct order everything should be fitted. As far as I can tell, I'll need to assemble the regulator while it's off the car, as I know from experience the cable is a very tight fit.

What I'm trying to work out is whether to fit the "shuttle" to the glass then bolt the regulator back onto the metal plate, or bolt the regulator on first then refit the metal plate while attaching the shuttle to the glass in the process. Or possibly have the glass all the way closed, refit everything, then use the motor to "push" the shuttle back onto the glass?

If anyone here has done this before, I'd be grateful for the benefit of your experience.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Anyone? I should receive the repair kit this week, so was hoping to get the best method before I attempt and potentially break something.
 

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Just fixed my drivers window and rear window. Similar symptoms - window goes crunch.

However, I bought a whole new regulator assembly - cost £50 for the rear, but fitting was quick and easy. Mine didn't look overly repairable when it came out, the wire was properly knackered and everything was corroded.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm assuming you would have had to go through a similar final assembly procedure as me? The kit still hasn't arrived, but it's imminent. Can you recall in which order things went back on?
 

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OK - did it at the weekend so it is still fresh.

1) Door trim. Pop out the trim behind the door pull, 5mm hex behind that. 5 mm hex in the bottom of the door pocket, that allows you to lift out the window switch. 2 more 5mm hex behind that. 3 screws in the bottom of the door card. Remove the trim piece at the back of the window above the door card - black plastic triangle, lever from the top. Pop the plastic fixings out of the door - using the proper plastic tool to do this helps. Door trim comes off upwards, it slots into the window channel

2) Undo the three torx screws (T15?) holding the motor on. Disconnect the motor and remove.

3) Unclip the strange wire that goes up the side of the door at the hinge end, or you will pull it when you drop the steel panel. Disconnect the speaker.

4) Undo all of the 10 mm bolts holding the steel panel in place. Undo the 2 10 mm nuts roughly in the middle of this panel - these hold the regulator to the panel.

5) Pry the panel off, it is a bit sticky. Once off it sort of hangs there on the door release cable.

6) The regulator is now visible (the vertical thing flapping around in the door). Hold the window with one hand (to stop it dropping), unclip the plastic driving connector, pull out the old assembly, and replace with the new one. Don't drop the window - some people tape them - I think it is worth doing on the front (heavy) but easy enough to hold on the back.

7) When you stick the steel panel back you will see that the bolts on the regulator line up again, bolt up loosely and get the whole lot back together again. You may need to wiggle the window up and down a fraction to get the motor back in and lined up.

Other than putting it all back together, that's it. Not hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Steps 1-5 are all very familiar, sounds exactly like how I got to mine on the rear.

Step 6 is where is goes a little awry for me, as the steel cable had completely disengaged itself from the white plastic shuttle clipped to the bottom of the glass, so the regulator was totally loose in the door.

I think based on your description, I need to re-assemble the regulator (attaching the new steel cable to the white plastic shuttle) off the car, then clip that to the glass, then re-fit the steel panel and hope (from your description) that it lines up so I can bolt it back on.

Sorry, kind of thinking aloud - but your description really helps me picture what I'll need to do. So thanks :thumbup:
 

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Yes - you have step 6a which is "assemble a working regulator using only your kit and and remains of the old one". Pity mine are in - I could have taken photos to help. S4P have pictures on their site.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll hopefully be ok, as I managed to get the old one back together (with some brute force and two mangled fingers later). It was only when attempting to re-attach to the car that the white shuttle clip thing snapped on me as I tried to re-attach it to the glass. I think it was a combination of it being brittle and my doing things in the wrong order. With a bit of luck, some new parts, and your help, I'll be ok next time round. Plus I'll be wearing gloves when wrestling the steel cable back into place, to avoid losing any more skin.
 

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I have fixed two windows in my 159 SW. The first one was easier, as I bought a whole new mechanism (the guide, the "shuttle", the "winch", with the cables attached out of the box). For the second window (rear passenger's side) I opted for "repair kit", which consisted of new cables and the shuttle only - which was half the price of the whole assembled thing.
First step, put the cables with one spring end into the shuttle (it has a groove for it) - after you figure out which one goes "up" and which goes "down". Then snap the shuttle onto the metal guide. Thirdly, put one end of each cable "armor" in the shuttle's metal guide, routing the cables themselves onto the rollers. Now you must figure out which cable has to be wound and which unwound (depends on shuttle's position on guide) and, while keeping the long spring compressed towards the "winch", start winding the cables. I had to ask another person for help to keep the spring with the guide rod in place, while twisting the "winch" (in a perpendicular axis to it's normal operation) to tension the whole thing because there was absolutely no tolerance on the cables. Managed to put it together, barely, after an hour or more... Not a pleasant experience but it's been working for like two months now without issues. The procedure was so annoying that I didn't even think about taking pictures...

The original shuttles are really brittle, I had broken two so far. The whole mechanism fails because the shuttle breaks - it makes the winch rotate too far (normally the shuttle stops on the guide and prevents that) when it breaks and detaches from the glass. This in turn usually snaps the cables out of the winch wheel and they get mangled onto the motor axle (which thankfully stops the window from falling down, usually).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Finally got my first chance to get on with this, being the bank holiday, and the Mrs was nagging me to sort out her window. All fitted and working correctly!

Just wanted to thank you both for your input, which proved invaluable. Many thanks!!

:thumbup:

Edit: Some words
 

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a bit late now but Mister-Auto do the whole assembly for £30 inc postage from France at the moment - I fitted mine yesterday SW R/R - trying to repair the mechanism must have been a byatch!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, it was. With the benefit of this experience, I won't do it again. The hardest part was getting the cable onto the assembly. I was especially peeved when one of the new cables broke. Thankfully it left me with the less mangled of the older ones to use. Anyway, got there in the end, but next time I'll buy an entire replacement I think.
 

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OK - did it at the weekend so it is still fresh.

1) Door trim. Pop out the trim behind the door pull, 5mm hex behind that. 5 mm hex in the bottom of the door pocket, that allows you to lift out the window switch. 2 more 5mm hex behind that. 3 screws in the bottom of the door card. Remove the trim piece at the back of the window above the door card - black plastic triangle, lever from the top. Pop the plastic fixings out of the door - using the proper plastic tool to do this helps. Door trim comes off upwards, it slots into the window channel

2) Undo the three torx screws (T15?) holding the motor on. Disconnect the motor and remove.

3) Unclip the strange wire that goes up the side of the door at the hinge end, or you will pull it when you drop the steel panel. Disconnect the speaker.

4) Undo all of the 10 mm bolts holding the steel panel in place. Undo the 2 10 mm nuts roughly in the middle of this panel - these hold the regulator to the panel.

5) Pry the panel off, it is a bit sticky. Once off it sort of hangs there on the door release cable.

6) The regulator is now visible (the vertical thing flapping around in the door). Hold the window with one hand (to stop it dropping), unclip the plastic driving connector, pull out the old assembly, and replace with the new one. Don't drop the window - some people tape them - I think it is worth doing on the front (heavy) but easy enough to hold on the back.

7) When you stick the steel panel back you will see that the bolts on the regulator line up again, bolt up loosely and get the whole lot back together again. You may need to wiggle the window up and down a fraction to get the motor back in and lined up.

Other than putting it all back together, that's it. Not hard.
Hi, I'm in the process of replacing the left rear (159 JTS) but curious about the "strange wire" that goes up the door post. Is it for a "closed window" sensor? How does the system know when the window is open/closed and to turn off. Is is a current overload circuit in the motor to tell it to stop? I'm hoping that's the case as it would be a good safety thing but not so good in a sticking window. I can not see any sensor for the window in the closed position. Cheers
 

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Hi, I'm in the process of replacing the left rear (159 JTS) but curious about the "strange wire" that goes up the door post. Is it for a "closed window" sensor? How does the system know when the window is open/closed and to turn off. Is is a current overload circuit in the motor to tell it to stop? I'm hoping that's the case as it would be a good safety thing but not so good in a sticking window. I can not see any sensor for the window in the closed position. Cheers
So replaced the cables, wheel that the wire goes round and the triangle thingy that push/pulls the window from a kit from Germany. Had to use the old black plastic base as the new one was a bit longer and slightly different shape. Also drilled out some sections to make the new wire fittings fit. My old triangle thingy was brittle and missing the bits that help it slide up the metal rail.
Did not connect the "strange wire" and tested. Seemed to work OK but reconnected it anyway. I don't think there is any 'reset' procedure. About $45 incl postage and better than the $680 quoted by Alfa on the Gold Coast.
Cheers
 
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