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Discussion Starter #1
My Sportwagon has the fold mirrors button, but you can't do it from the keyfob.

I was thinking of putting a small relay in the door panel controls - connected to the door lock feeds so that the mirrors fold when the doors lock.

I have some tiny 5A rated relays that have 2 coils and connections for open and close. Just put one coil onto the motor lock signal and one on the motor open signal (diode across the relay coils to stop spikes).

The standard 'push to fold' button would then become the on/off switch for auto-fold instead.

If anyone is interested, then I will take pics and do a 'how to do it' post.
 

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if your doors are set to autolock though doesnt this mean the wing mirrors would fold in when you set off?
Taking the swiching feed then from the deadlocks would work in theory, one press to lock two to deadlock and activate folding windows :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
OK. 20 minutes with a multimeter... this is where we are at.

Agreed - Deadlock feed is preferable (and probably what I will use). I planned to feed the module with an ignition feed, so that the mirrors didn't fold automatically unless the ignition key was out.

I thought the 'fold' button was latching, but it isn't. Its simply a press button.

The feed to the door locks appears to be the standard 3 wires. Common Ov (chassis), a positive signal to lock the doors, and a positive signal to deadlock the doors.

When the doors are unlocked, these cables reverse polarity and the common chassis feed becomes a 12v pulse and the other two become chassis - thus unlocking both motors together.

We just need to take a feed off the deadlock 12v signal - put it through a signal diode (to prevent a backfeed operating the locks) and power the 'close mirrors' signal on our relay.

The 'open mirrors' signal is taken from the common door motor feed. Again through a signal diode.

The original 'open/close' push button will do exactly as it used to.

Looking at the drivers side, all this can be accomplished on the M066 drivers side control module - mounted in the door panel.
I am hoping to find a male and female connectors that mate with the connections to the M066 panel. Then we can simply have a tiny 'plug and play' box that plugs into the existing loom and requires no cutting.

For those who want it optional, then a simple small black latching push button could be inserted and mounted on the door controls somewhere. I don't think you need that however.

Not sure if you can see the attached wiring..

OK.... back to proper work now
 

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OK. 20 minutes with a multimeter... this is where we are at.

Agreed - Deadlock feed is preferable (and probably what I will use). I planned to feed the module with an ignition feed, so that the mirrors didn't fold automatically unless the ignition key was out.

I thought the 'fold' button was latching, but it isn't. Its simply a press button.

The feed to the door locks appears to be the standard 3 wires. Common Ov (chassis), a positive signal to lock the doors, and a positive signal to deadlock the doors.

When the doors are unlocked, these cables reverse polarity and the common chassis feed becomes a 12v pulse and the other two become chassis - thus unlocking both motors together.

We just need to take a feed off the deadlock 12v signal - put it through a signal diode (to prevent a backfeed operating the locks) and power the 'close mirrors' signal on our relay.

The 'open mirrors' signal is taken from the common door motor feed. Again through a signal diode.

The original 'open/close' push button will do exactly as it used to.

Looking at the drivers side, all this can be accomplished on the M066 drivers side control module - mounted in the door panel.
I am hoping to find a male and female connectors that mate with the connections to the M066 panel. Then we can simply have a tiny 'plug and play' box that plugs into the existing loom and requires no cutting.

For those who want it optional, then a simple small black latching push button could be inserted and mounted on the door controls somewhere. I don't think you need that however.

Not sure if you can see the attached wiring..

OK.... back to proper work now
WOW... sounds complicated. Maybe not one for an incompetent home mechanic who has fists made of ham and sausages for fingers :wow:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds complicated - but its not really. We only need 4 connections off the control module.
Parts come to less than £10 + the loom connectors.
The cables are pretty thin gauge, so I think a piggyback loom connection is preferable to a bodged snap-on connector.
Shame the wiring diagram won't upload in a decent quality
 

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Hi, im interested in helping with this. I work as a electronic engineer in a production environment, so access to all sorts of crimp connectors.

It may be helpful to have them fold in when the key is removed but after a delay, reason for this is because I recently locked my key in the boot and I didn't have a spare key. The locksmith was saying that he wouldn't of been able to get in if I had deadlocked it, not sure why though.

Do you have a picture of the control module, also the proposed circuit design. Might be worth uploading to photo bucket and posting a link on the forum.

Check out my last PIC based project. It was used for switching tanks/fuels on a Peugeot 306 running on vegetable oil.

vegetableoildiesel.co.uk - Twin Tank Veg Oil Controller - Ideas - Powered by XMB

Cheers
 

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Ahh just has a thought. I don't think the button to fold the mirrors in is physically linked to the passengers window. It might send a signal via the CAN network.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the offer Ben
To be honest, its a very simple circuit. I to design electronics.

It is linked to the CAN system, but the lock motors are certainly switching at 12v which is all that is needed to operate a small relay.
The actual 'close/open' mirror button does work via the CAN system - but we are only basically shorting across the push button.

Another 'feature' could be a small 3 position slide switch on the module that the user selects before installing.
1= close on deadlock 2= close on normal lock 3= close on ignition off + 20 seconds.

All fairly easy as the connections are all on the same plug.

Oh, and talking of projects.... here is one of my many pointless efforts...
TNAC. Thermal Nuclear Alarm Clock. (Basic Stamp programming project) - YouTube

Steve
 

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Thing is though, the button doesn't work (at least on mine) with the ignition key out. Ive lost count of the number of times Ive had to put the key back in to the ignition to fold the mirrors away.

So, shorting the button wont work, correct me if im wrong.

How does it work on the TI?
 
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