Thought id post this up as someone else might find it useful
To remove the rear bumper -
1 -Remove four star head screws located in each wheel arch
2 -Remove the two lower torx T30 screws from the underside of the bumper, roughly in line with the two center parking sensors. When under there its best to undo the two electrical connectors (parking sensors and number plate lights)
3- Remove the rear tail lights to access another two torx T30 bolts, one below each light. (Lights are removed by undoing the screw up bolt in light cover inside boot and then removing three M5 bolts)
4 - Remove bumper by pulling it towards you
note - It might be best to source some replacement speed clips as the ones in my wheel arches were not in a great shape and needed replaced.
Tail lamps are mounted with 3 nuts 8 mm metric each.
You can use conventional O- or U- shaped socked if undo both side carpet trims inside the boot.
To mount lamps back do not make much force to screw nuts otherwise you have to check threads about water in rear lamps.
Any chance of some opinion / advice on an investment path please?
I have a cracked spring (common fault I know) so am using this as an opportunity to improve the stock suspension.
Eibach ProSystem suspension kit
around 500 EUR on Alfisti
Eibach-Bilstein Suspension Kit...
Bear with me - I'll describe everything I've done so far. I welcome some fresh ideas.
- P0365 is no signal from the left intake camshaft sensor. It comes up immediately after I start the engine and P0016 comes up a short while later. No surprise - the ECU can't calculate the phase timing...
Hello, i have a question. My breather hose broke from my intake hose (alfa 159 2.0 Jtdm). I dont want to buy new part, so im thinking maybe i will cover the hole that is in intake hose and vent out breather fumes to the atmosphere, at least till when i'll buy oil catch can or something.
Been considering modifying my factory grill.
Tonight I ordered the honeycomb mesh (same/very similar to that in the lower grills) and cutting discs.
I'll be cutting out the cross members of the "V", plastic bogging, sanding and painting, and then bonding in the very carefully cut mesh.