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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the wiring diagrams for the drivers door?

I've tried downloading the eLearn .ISO but I can't for the life of me get it to run.
 

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Can I ask what you need it for? I had to do some repair work on the Brera door wiring harness, depending on what your problem is?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Can I ask what you need it for? I had to do some repair work on the Brera door wiring harness, depending on what your problem is?
The driver's door electric window has stopped working. Well, it's not worked for a while and I've tried repairing it in the past, to no avail. Now that I've got an abundance of spare time, I'd like to finally resolve it. Here's where I'm at:

-All other windows work fine, just the driver's door that doesn't.
-I've checked the fuse, obviously.
-Having removed the door panel, I can hear the relays clicking when trying to operate the window.
-With the motor removed from the door but still connected, it still does not operate, so I can rule out a failed window regulator.
-I connected the motor to the passenger door circuit, and the motor is working.
-I connected the known working passenger door motor to the driver's door, and it does not operate, so I can rule out motor issues.
-I checked continuity between the motor connector and the window control module, which was fine.
-I have 11.8 volts to the window control module (assuming I had the correct cables, but I can't be sure without a wiring diagram)
-I took a gamble when I previously attempted to resolve this, and replaced the window control module with a used replacement. Needless to say, it didn't sold the problem.

So that's where I'm at. I think I have it narrowed down to a wiring issue, but to continue digging I need some wiring diagrams or some advice!
 

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You dont seem to have checked the most common issue...broken wires in the boot between the body and the door...they often snap through continuous bending,
 

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That is exactly what happened to me on my Brera. clicking sound you can hear in the door control module turned out to be the circuit getting about 5V from a frayed wire, but not enough to energise the circuit. It was resolved by confirming the 12V from fuse 80 in a Brera at the boot fusebox. I think it was the pink and white wire then tracing this back towards the door. Obviously seats out and carpet removed. Found the break as the loom transitioned from close to the side panel adjacent to the fuel pump down to the floor pan. Exposed the wire then simple connector to replace frayed ends. Works fine now.
 

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If you have 12V into the door then as Alfa Italia suggested break could be as the loom enters the door. Easy enough to fish back through the door and check.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good suggestion, I haven't checked the cables between the door and cabin.

Easy enough to fish back through the door and check.
Surely in order to be able to pull the loom back through the door, I would need to pull the inner door skin off. But I can't remove the inner door skin without disconnecting the glass from the regulator, but I can't do that because I can't lower the window into position to loosen the bolts that hold the glass in place. Or would I be able to manually operate the window with the motor removed? :unsure:
 

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Of course the Brera does not have an inner door skin, just strengthening when you remove the door card. I had the same problem, could not remove the regulator as could not drop the window slightly. However, I don't think you need to remove the regulator to fish the cable harness through to be able to examine the wires? I would start by disconnecting the wiring harness at the door connector and checking the pink and white wire with a multimeter in the door a pilar connector. If you have 12V there the problem is likely to be in the door harness, if not it's likely to be in the loom from the boot to the door. You can power the regulator and move the window by removing the bottom plug from the window control module. The 2 centre pins are earth and supply. Actually it would make more sense to pull the lower connector from the window control module and measure if you have 12V there rather than at the a pilar connector. If you don't start working back to the a pilar connector then towards the boot probing until you find the break. I do hope this makes sense?

Nick
 

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When removing the lower conector from the WCM you can power directly by supply 12V from a battery, that is how I got mine to move to check the regulator but you have already confirmed, I think, the regulator is fine.
 

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Good suggestion, I haven't checked the cables between the door and cabin.



Surely in order to be able to pull the loom back through the door, I would need to pull the inner door skin off.
No need to remove any of that...the break will be in the rubber boot...and is usually pretty obvious....snapped wires or sharp kinks were the wire has snapped inside the insulation.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No need to remove any of that...the break will be in the rubber boot...and is usually pretty obvious....snapped wires or sharp kinks were the wire has snapped inside the insulation.
Thanks, I'll try that. What's the best way to move the rubber boot out of the way? Will it stretch over the main connector to the cabin to remove it?
 
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