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Hi there lads,

I've got an 2007 alfa 159 2.4 jtdm with around 67k km on the mileage. Coming from australia where dpf removals are not offered here, I'm very much tempted to go about doing this myself. :)

I figured I can pay for someone to remap my ecu over the Internet via a service, while I search for a custom dpf bypass pipe. Before I go to a pipe maker, is there anyone who can assist in the dimensions and material needed for such a pipe to be made?

Appreciate any help lads. Love the car! :lol:

P.s. My change service oil light came up after 3-4 active regens (dpf light was on). My last service was at 60 thousand kms (now only 67 thousand kms) so feeling hard done that I have to change it so quickly. I've been ignoring the message for the past week but am worried that the car will not allow anymore dpf active regens because of this or is this unrelated? Or could it just be the dealer forgetting to reset the service counter? In his invoice it clearly states that he has.

Thanks again :confused:
 

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Check the oil level!!!
When I started using my 2.4 the regens were not successful which resulted in a lot of diesel in the oil.
If the oil is overfull you have diesel in it. Replace the oil immediately in my opinion.

In SA we are in the same position as you with no real aftermarket parts available at a affordable cost.

What I will suggest for now is do what I did and get rid of the pre-cat housed just after the Turbo in the downpipe.
I plainly cut it in halve and removed the internals. (Look out for the EGT probe don’t damage it).
With the pre-cat removed the regens take less time, boost response improved and fuel consumption improved slightly.
 

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........while I search for a custom dpf bypass pipe. Before I go to a pipe maker, is there anyone who can assist in the dimensions and material needed for such a pipe to be made?
The pipe should be the easy bit looking at mine: either stainless steel or annodised mild, it's just a straight length of exhaust tubing with a flange at one end with 3 threaded studs. An exhaust shop should be able to knock one up in no time. The alternative is to knock the innards out of the dpf I understand or cut it open and weld it back up after removing the filter elemant.
 

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Hi there I am from Victoria too and was quite glad to see someone considering the option of by-passing the DPF :cool:

What do you do with the electronic cable loom connected to the DPF? This what has been stopping me from going ahead with removing my 159's DPF.

Any help on this would be much appreciated :)
 

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there is an other option for guys who wants to remove dpf by themselves with no need of software delete. you can do this yourself or get an exhaust service do it for you.

anyway, just cut open dpf pot and smash dpf itself out. then, reposition sensors on second catalytic converter which is in the same pot as dpf. sensor that was before dpf should go before cat, sensor that was after should go after cat. weld the pot to the original state. this is very good for the mot, as they cannot see inside, but it look stock.

by doing this, you fool ecu as it still gets differential pressure measurement. be warned tho, car will make regens, but much longer between them. also, if you have unsuccessful regens it doesn't really matter as nothing can be clogged since dpf is not physically there.

another thing to warn about is that when regen is going, in cars which does not have dpf, car will excessively smoke blue. exhaust temperature, however, will not rise significantly, even less if you install downpipe instead of first cat.

great benefit is the sound. with downpipe and dpf gone, 2,4 engine has really nice sound.

hope this helps someone somewhere where regen delete is impossible.
 
J

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I like this idea as it keeps a stock look.
How long are you going without regen on this?
Where does the dpf temp sensor go if the dpf pressure sensors have moved forward


QUOTE=mkuzir;4741628]there is an other option for guys who wants to remove dpf by themselves with no need of software delete. you can do this yourself or get an exhaust service do it for you.

anyway, just cut open dpf pot and smash dpf itself out. then, reposition sensors on second catalytic converter which is in the same pot as dpf. sensor that was before dpf should go before cat, sensor that was after should go after cat. weld the pot to the original state. this is very good for the mot, as they cannot see inside, but it look stock.

by doing this, you fool ecu as it still gets differential pressure measurement. be warned tho, car will make regens, but much longer between them. also, if you have unsuccessful regens it doesn't really matter as nothing can be clogged since dpf is not physically there.

another thing to warn about is that when regen is going, in cars which does not have dpf, car will excessively smoke blue. exhaust temperature, however, will not rise significantly, even less if you install downpipe instead of first cat.

great benefit is the sound. with downpipe and dpf gone, 2,4 engine has really nice sound.

hope this helps someone somewhere where regen delete is impossible.[/QUOTE]
 
J

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If you don't have a welder you could run core drill up it to the dpf cat join.
Would have to make sure no sensors got chopped.
Core drills cut through bricks. Wouldn't have thought the dpf substrate would give too many issues
I know it's been done on other car makes
 

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well, mr. james, it is not so difficult once you actually see it. pot that contains dpf and second cat is pretty much straight forward in construction. i am sure that if you ask any exhaust company and tell them what you want, they will know how to do it.

the trick is to measure pressure before and after obstacle thus having difference. so, at stock, one sensor is before dpf, other after. dpf is an obstacle. it fills with soot so gasses have more and more resistance passing thru and pressure before dpf rises. pressure after is basically the same most of the time. some back pressure can be measured from last pots at the rear of the car. therefore, if pressure before dpf rises, and pressure after stays as it is, pressure difference is higher. this is what your ecuscan shows when you read out dpf clogging percentage.

when you bust dpf out, you must leave second cat intact. it will be obstacle enough to provide sufficient pressure difference for the ecu. thing is that pressure measured will not change, so ecu starts regen on backup function - time and mileage. it keeps track of time between regens and distance the vehicle has travelled, so even with the dpf present but not clogged, that is if you make only high speed travels, it will regen nonetheless. i do not know why is it like this, why this backup functions is there.

they've told me that in this situation, car regens once per tank of fuel.
 

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If you don't have a welder you could run core drill up it to the dpf cat join.
Would have to make sure no sensors got chopped.
Core drills cut through bricks. Wouldn't have thought the dpf substrate would give too many issues
I know it's been done on other car makes

This works a treat

I did it on mine this weekend as a last ditched attempt to get rid of sluggish performance and because there were no more types of additives left to try.

I left some of the front of the DPF in place, maybe an inch or two, and only made a hole probably 1.5 - 2 inches in diameter up till there. (and a few random holes drilled roughly down the sides for good measure)

It has completely transformed the car from being a leisurely slouch (until pushed hard) to feeling a lot more responsive.

Add to it that you don't need to bother with a bypass pipe or interferw with sensors or remapping, it works really well.

I've checked for errors every day so far and there's none. Mpg is up an honest 10% too.

I used a 15mm masonry bit, 45cm long. I didn't bother removing the dpf either, I just disconnected the rear exhaust section from the back of the back of the dpf can and drilled up through there. The best mod I've made, and cost me nothing. No additive can make this sort of improvement :)

I started the engine and revved it a few times before reconnecting the exhaust, to blow out the dust. All in all it took 15 minutes. If you disconnect the battery first before you start then the ECU will reset and be ready to start learning the new parameters when you're finished underneath the car. (You might need your radio code to hand, so skip disconnecting the battery if you haven't got it !)

All I'll say is to be sure the dpf is blocked before you start and you don't have another reason for sluggishness hiding in there somewhere. once I removed the temperature probe from the DPF and started the car I could tell from the huge amount of pressure escaping the hole where the sensor goes that the filter must be almost fully clogged.

It seems far too easy and like there must be a catch. Things aren't usually so easy, but, this looks like it is.
 

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FixitSan

Can you keep us posted on how it goes over the next couple of weeks.

I agree that it sounds too good to be true but I'm keen to beat this issue!

Cheers

Sanman
 

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No worries Sanman, I'll keep my updates restricted to the thread I started here
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-159-brera-and-946-spider/355534-dpf-quick-fixes.html

I've done just over 400 miles now since drilling out some of the dpf core and still haven't had an attempted regen, high mpg or an ecu fault. All I've had is better performance, better mpg and no ECU faults. It feels great :)

The test is going to come on the next motorway trip which, if it doesn't happen later this week will happen on Sunday, when I do my usual run.

Chris
 

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DPF bypass pipes are available from ALFA, as not all 159 diesels were fitted with DPFs. They do not have any holes for sensors, so can only really be used on cars that are having the DPF-related software eliminated by a remap.
 
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