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Discussion Starter #1
Have been struggling with my 156 for almost three weeks now.
The car won't start weith the emergency start up.
By reading some of the forums the ECU has gne into safe mode. The problem is no alfa garage or dealer near.
A guy with a diagnostic machine picked a lot of codes he did not know but put a circle on CODE 1511.
Help on what to do.
Was thinking of getting a ECU replacement kit.
 
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Hi there, I'd like to ask you a few questions:

1. what year is your 156?
2. what engine size?
3. with the key at the 1st click [ MAR ] what lights are illuminated? [ on? ]
4. look between the speedo & rev counter, is there another smaller screen? is there a yellow key shaped symbol illuminated?

according to my list of codes

P1512 Intake Manifold Runner Control (Bank 1) Stuck Closed

the issue could be wiring related so buy a 'ECU kit' might be a waste of your money.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is 1999 model, 2ltr engine.
When I switch the key on to (MAR) these lights remain on, Btry, Oil, injector light and for the airbag that yellow one for key code stays on also.
Please not that when I got this car there was no ignition key so I got a red one from a dealer who gave the code to bypass the immobilizer that's how I have been starting the car until it started not to accept the code any more.
 
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when you tap in the code using the accelerator use the engine light flash to say it was accepted? Now it stays on solid after tapping in the code?

I'd say you have other issues, how is the petrol in the tank? is the fuel pump running when the key is to MAR? can you get error codes read?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When u switch on the key to much the pump would be silent.
Before it used to do like this:
Key on MAR the engine light will come on the off after some seconds by pressing the accelerator pedal down it will come then u start putting your code.
Now it doesn't go off but it only blinks once and stays on. There by I won't be able to put in the code as usual.
Some of the codes ready are U1600,1513,0100,0170,0110, 1653,0120,0655 there were all saying refer to technical manual.
 
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re pump: thats true but the pressure will disappear after a while so it should prime up again, say after 15 min's. have you tried pressing the button under the pass seat. also chekc the realys & the wires in their bases at the fornt of the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The wires I have checked, for interest sake how many relays are supposed to be there becoz there are only three on mine.
Assume all this fails who can organize me an ECU KIT good second hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay sure there are three as you said.
The orange and red base I think no problem.
But the black one I don't understand it what is it switching positive or negative I mean green and black wires.
I am an alarm assistant technician such that I understand wires a bit.
When u switch key ON is the relay supposed to click and stay ON or it will when the engine starts. Because with mine it clicks ON and OFF in less 2sec.
 
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the relay of the red base will click for as long as the fuel pump runs

to figure out if the black or white is for the fan, remove the relays & short across the 2 HEAVY , if the fan operates then that one is the fan, the other is the Injection system. afaik you can [ for test purposes ] place a short across the 2 HEAVY connectors to enable power to the ECU. If that works then either the relay is faulty [ swap another in to its place ] or the wires at its base are broken.

Let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hi, managed to get a guy with key programming machine and managed to program the key. Was right the computer wasn't registering the key any more.
The key code light is gone and it is now starting.
But now it has a misfiring like two cylinders are not firing up would check and update you. I am suspecting plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The plug holes are dry of either oil or water but when I said misfire I think I mislead you.
Its like while you are cranking it tries to pop up then dies dwn. Like if it was a cub would say its flooded. It does not idle. But shows a life what could be my problem.
 
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try disconnecting the MAF sensor, located on the air intake pipe, opposite the battery. Idle may be rough but the car should drive better if the MAF is faulty. Also try removing the plugs & inspect them. Can you do a compressionn test on each cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Changed the plugs the car idles with jacks and hiccups removed screws on the TPS and moved it downwards car idles okay but can't rave it misfires
How do u test fuel pump pressure?
 

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I would try a donor maf meter, failing that make sure there are no splits in the air intake pipe. Air filter clean??? I doubt its a fuel pressure problem. Is the earth lead on the coil packs tight???
 

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Another common problem is the idle speed actuator situated on the side of the throttle body, Watch the butterfly whilst the engine is running to see if it is movong all over the place
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This idle speed control actuator position sensor is brand new but that's the one I'm saying when you remove all the screws and turn it the car idles okay.
Now I don't now if it is faulty or not.
If I open to check must be the butterfly be moving always or not.
 
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