[diddums100]

Hi guys,

The paint is bubbling off my drivers side wing mirror base plate. I've noticed that on the other side of the car the plate has already been replaced for one which looks to have been powder coated or similar as it's more matt than the one on the drivers side. I've had a look on ebay and it looks like some of the base plates are this powder coated kind and some are the painted (rubbish) kind. Is there a pattern to this? Do some models have the better coating?

[email protected]

 

[Mitch916]

Paint is standard. Very easy to remove and repaint. There is a guide in here, do a search :thumbup:

 

[TOX1C]

I carbon wrapped mine. Looks OK, matched the "B" pillar now :thumbs:

 

[dhillon]

I carbon wrapped mine. Looks OK, matched the "B" pillar now :thumbs:

Hey, how did you carbon wrap yours? My door mirror bases are in a state, I painted one with black hammerite and it looks a real mess! What carbon wrap did you use? I am thinking of doing both wing mirror bases and the black door trims as well.

Cheers.

 

[Guest]

Remove the mirror assembly from the door frame, one cover with three hex/ torx screws and a multiplug.
Disassemble the mirror from the base.
Remove the old paint and sand the alloy smooth to get rid of any underlying alloy corrosion taking care not to leave deep scratches as this will show later on.
Using a green, cheap pan scrubber, key the surface so fresh paint can stick, pay attention to the edges where flaking initially starts.

Clean off with. Clean cloth and IPA spray.
Leave to dissipate and dry.

Use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the alloy until warm while shaking a tin of high build primer in the other hand until mixed
Light separate coats of primer until covered... Allow to dry.
Matt black spray paint (pound shop)
Two to three light coats until primer is totally covered... Job done for a standard finish

Or

If you want to experiment with a carbon effect... Buy a tin of black gloss spray and a small role of anti slip matting both from the same pound shop and a spray tin of clear lacquer (cheapest possible)
Once the Matt black is thoroughly dry, gently let the anti slip matting rest on the mirror base. Cut a hole in the bottom to allow the mirror bracket through.... We can do that bit later so cover it to prevent overspray.
Gently heat with a hair dryer the anti slip Matt so it becomes more pliable and make sure the Matt has no creases as it lays on top of the fresh matt paint. Using your gloss black spray, go over the anti slip matting holes at a distance of at least 12".
Before it dries and hardens, carefully peel away the matting to reveal the cross hatching effect between little gloss black squares and matt black. Presto.... Carbon fibre effect. Repeat the process around the mirror base bracket area you can use the matting over and over.

Allow to dry. Then follow up with a few light coats of clear lacquer to give it a deep gloss effect.
Now have a cuppa and admire your work

If you fluff it or don't like the effect... Don't worry... To can lightly key the lacquer with the pan scrubber again once completely dry and repeat the first matt black process instead.

Bring back Tapatalk !!!

 

[David C]

The paint is bubbling off my drivers side wing mirror base plate. I've noticed that on the other side of the car the plate has already been replaced for one which looks to have been powder coated or similar as it's more matt than the one on the drivers side.

If your driver's side is not matt, then that is the one that has already been done!
The std oem finish is matt black.

 

[lowejackson]

I got the powder coated ones from Autolusso, these seem more robust than the original paint

 

[TOX1C]

Hey, how did you carbon wrap yours? My door mirror bases are in a state, I painted one with black hammerite and it looks a real mess! What carbon wrap did you use? I am thinking of doing both wing mirror bases and the black door trims as well.

Cheers.

I used 3M Scotchscal fibre wrap. I had to do it in two pieces, the part under the mirror didn't show apart from a very small join. I cleaned up the mount and wiped it with IPA before I started. There are some great videos on U-tube from 3M. I heated up the wrap using a hair dryer and pre-stretched it that way it moulded to the curves OK. There is a vid doing a complete mirror (Astra) that shows how it should be done.

All in all it was easier than I would have believed and cheaper than painting 'em; which I did 3 years ago with Satin Hammerite.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251146010291?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

[AngryMeerkat]

I've just resprayed one of my base plates, using aerospace coatings (because I'm posh and that's what I do for a living), and unless you make some additional changes the bubbling paint will be a common occurrence ....

The base plates are made of alloy, but mounted using steel bolts to a (presumably?) steel door. This turns the alloy into a sacrifial plate when the dreaded moisture and rust set in, which is why boats have sacrificial anodes made from almost the exact same alloy which rot away but prevent the steel rusting.

So you either change your bolts to alloy (not ideal as there will still be an alloy-steel join).

Or you coat the threads on the mounting bolts or inside the base plates with something to prevent the alloy and steel touching each other.

Mark

 

[diddums100]

I've just resprayed one of my base plates, using aerospace coatings (because I'm posh and that's what I do for a living), and unless you make some additional changes the bubbling paint will be a common occurrence ....

The base plates are made of alloy, but mounted using steel bolts to a (presumably?) steel door. This turns the alloy into a sacrifial plate when the dreaded moisture and rust set in, which is why boats have sacrificial anodes made from almost the exact same alloy which rot away but prevent the steel rusting.

So you either change your bolts to alloy (not ideal as there will still be an alloy-steel join).

Or you coat the threads on the mounting bolts or inside the base plates with something to prevent the alloy and steel touching each other.

Mark

i'm starting to think that getting it powder coated and then get some zinc bolts is the best option, no?

[email protected]

 

[sprint_veloce]

Powdercoating's not necessarily that great from a corrosion point of view. Graham's method done carefully will probably give a better result. Maybe use an automotive grade top coat as some of the cheap paints can fade or fail under UV. Is there a thin plastic gasket between the mirror base and door? And yes the bolts should be zinc plated, but then most are.

 

[dhillon]

Thanks very much guys, I appreciate the advice, I will do both of my wing mirror bases this weekend. Thanks once again!

 

[aircool]

Going to give my wing mirror bases a refresh as well.

Will obviously get some fine grit wet and dry to smooth out the old aluminium.

Are these items suitable as a primer and satin finish?

U-POL Acid #8 Etch Primer

Halfords Satin Black Spray 300ml

Seeing quite a few negative reviews for the hammerite products =(

Thanks.