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Looking at the valves in the head they are only very slightly bent, to have caused these two shallow dents they would have be bent at a much greater angle?. Just measured the distance between the edges of the dent and checked this against the valve size they do not match up?.Just hope the back head is as good.
I need to remove the heat shield from the rear exhaust manifold, found two top nuts, anyone know where the others are located. I have a D.V.D workshop manual but in the section 'removing the heads' it does not mention the heat shield. Some of the manifold bolts are hidden behind it. Thanks
There's another nut that attached the shield to the exhaust manifold
could you take pictures of the bent valves? I'm curious to see what they look like.
 

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I don't think you've got any issues with the small marks on the piston shown so far. Worst one I saw (not a busso) was where the tensioner bearing seized at 7000rpm and threw the belt off instantly. Pistons hit the valves so hard the head of a valve broke off and when the piston came back up the valve head stopped the piston too fast. The conrod and gudgeon pin continued up and split the piston in half, each half of the piston punching holes and ejecting out either side of the block. Result was you could look straight through the block out the other side and sitting in the hole was the battered end of the conrod. Nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Hi here are some pictures of the front head. Some of the valves when closed do not hold water. This test can be done to determine if they are shutting correctly.
20200622_183127.jpg
20200622_183138.jpg
20200622_183140.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Hi can someone tell me if the cam belt adjuster has to be removed to get the rear head off? and what about the water pump?. Just wondering if these will come off with the head or are they also attached to the block?. The rear manifold is loose and the head nuts are off but there is no movement from the head. Some items on the front head would not undo so now the front one is off they can be removed. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Hi, thanks for the photo's and info. Didn't realize the alternator bracket had to be removed, the so called 'workshop D.V.D' I bought did not mention this. I will download the 'totallyalfa' one.
The heads will be ready to be checked over for any work or new valves which may be needed. Phoenix Engineering of Hereford do a very good service, having used them before for the Stag heads. Normally takes just over a week.
 

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Thank's for all the comments and info but still no one has told me if you could inspect the valves by removing the inlet manifold?.
The car is X reg 2000. I bought it new from Hersild and Heggoff Alfa dealers in Naerum Denmark and I drove it home, great memories!.. The car is genuine UK spec just came into the country via Denmark. Danish dealers were being offered huge discounts by the Italian factory to sell as many cars as possible.
-snipped-
Actually the reasoning for the huge danish discounts were the insane danish registration tax of then 105% of the first ~60.000dkk base price incl vat + 180% of the rest. Also known as “buy one car, pay for three”..
So in order to sell any new cars in denmark the factories sold way cheaper to danish dealers than eg uk dealers.. the eu killed this in the mid to late 2000s as i remember.

The 156 from new was actually an affordable car due to this.
 

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The left hand inlet valves are the worst.
You can see the middle cylinder ones have clipped aswell,right hand side does not appear to have any marks.

the engineering place will fetch them all out replace what’s bent and recut all seats anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
The back head is now loose, just have to remove the sensor. Anyone tell me how it comes off don't want to damage it. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #71
When I bought the car I had already had a test drive at a local dealer but decided £26,000 was more than I wanted to spend. I then bought a few car mags and started researching the cheapest country to buy from. This was the early days of the web and not many people had good access. After making a few calls to importers I realized the cheapest country was Denmark. I managed to find contact details for three Alfa dealers in the Copenhagen area, each was contacted by 'fax' with the model I was interested in. I had two replies and choose the cheapest!, not wanting to order and pay without further investigation, I decided to fly over and visit the dealership.
 

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My understanding of carrying out a compression test is to turn the engine over using the starter motor.
Given the timing belt is broken, this should not be done. It could end up with more bent valves.
First you'd turn the cams so the valves are closed, or remove the rockers or cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Taken the heads to Phoenix Engineering in Hereford today. He had a brief look at them and can see two pairs of valves on each head are slightly bent. Also told me that if they are hydraulic (which I believe they are), any new ones will need shimming up. Should have a detailed estimate by the weekend.
 

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Never heard of shimming hydraulic lifters before, unless he has got confused and the lifter is just a bucket with shim under or on it on that engine? Hydraulic lifters do away with the need to adjust tappet clearance as it’s done by oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Here's a picture of the rear head, the marks on the center piston top are the same as the ones on the front head. Could they be balancing marks?. If the val
938402
ves had hit the piston tops they would have to have been bent far more.
 

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no way to know how much they would bend.. if they didnt why have you got bent valves ... they do hit pistons when the belts snap
 

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How long has the engine been sitting with the heads off without the liners being held down? Have you turned the crank at all with the heads off?
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Only just taken the rear head off, the crank has not been turned over. Not got any liner lock bolts but I will see about making something suitable.
Am I correct in saying because the valves are hydraulic the new ones will not need shimming up but you do need to build the oil pressure up before initial start up?. Most info says, DO NOT FILL them with oil?.
Does anyone have a used set of liner locks or cam locks I could buy?.
 
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