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I would have said go for a 3.0 V6 replacement engine because it is SO much nicer to drive, but you have what sounds like a fantastic original car from new and I would probably keep it that way. Repair the original 2.5 and enjoy many more more miles and smiles!
The 3.0 is amazing!!! I had a 2.5 before I got my 3.0 and the difference is massive. There is so much more mid range and you even get better MPG because of that. I don't see it making much difference at this stage whether a car is totally original or not, besides there's zero way of telling the two engines apart once installed unless you drive them both or dismantle to measure the cylinders.

Of course I understand if one wishes to keep all the bits completely original...
 

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I have a 3.0 V6 in my 156 and I love every moment of driving it! It's so much more responsive than the 2.5 engine. I probably wouldn't go back to a 2.5 again.
 

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I have a 3.0 V6 in my 156 and I love every moment of driving it! It's so much more responsive than the 2.5 engine. I probably wouldn't go back to a 2.5 again.
I've never driven a GTA but if a 3.0 can put out 230bhp then it'll run it fairly close... Close enough to question needing a GTA, which I assume is why Alfa never made a 3.0 156...
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Just about to remove the power steering pump, can anyone tell me how many bolts hold it on and what size they are. Looking at the pump it looks like 3 bolts one being very difficult to get a spanner on. This bolts is located by the exhaust manifold cover?. Thank's
 

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My understanding of carrying out a compression test is to turn the engine over using the starter motor.
Given the timing belt is broken, this should not be done. It could end up with more bent valves.

PAS pump mounts onto a casting bolted onto the head with 3 13mm AF bolts
937642


Pump bolts to casting with two 13mm bolts from memory from right hand side and one from left to boss on end of engine block again I think 13mm
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thank you for the info and pictures.
:). Just one more question!, I have the front head loose, can it be removed by disconnecting the exhaust down pipe (already done this) or do I have to undo the 6 manifold bolts?. No doubt these will be rusted up!.
When I did the heads on my Stag these were a big problem, having not been touched for 40 years and the heads did not come off without a fight!. Thank's
 

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When I stripped my engine I removed the exhaust manifold. The nuts came off on some, others wound out with the stud.
I replaced all the exhaust nuts and studs on rebuild.
Lifting the head is heavy enough, without the exhaust attached, also the manifold will probably hit the radiator before the head clears the studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Thank's for the images they have been very useful. The front head is now off!. Some valves look out of true, middle piston top may have 2 tiny dents but with nothing to compare it with I am not sure. Will post some pictures.
The top roller pully is still on the head and will need a nut welded on it to remove it, who thought it was a good idea to use allen headed bolts on them.
Any tips on removing the rear head would be most welcome.
 

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The rear head does not present any challenges different to the front head.
Being more vertical it is easier, however again remove the exhaust manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Cheers, here is a picture of the pistons. The center one looks to have 2 small dents which I have have marked but on closer inspection it may be original?. Any ideas on the marks?.
sketch-1592402147906.png
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Just checked the valves on the removed head and although some are slightly bent, they do not seem to have come into contact with the piston tops. Just hope the back head is as good.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Looking at the valves in the head they are only very slightly bent, to have caused these two shallow dents they would have be bent at a much greater angle?. Just measured the distance between the edges of the dent and checked this against the valve size they do not match up?.Just hope the back head is as good.
I need to remove the heat shield from the rear exhaust manifold, found two top nuts, anyone know where the others are located. I have a D.V.D workshop manual but in the section 'removing the heads' it does not mention the heat shield. Some of the manifold bolts are hidden behind it. Thanks
 
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