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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
156 v6 Alternator approach

Hi guys!

I've been away from the forums in general, because I've been enjoying my lovelly Alfa :thumbup: and been working my *** off.:depressed: But once in a while, I do get some time to check how things are, in the virtual "www" world.

Anywho, I come before you today with a little problem (or should I say issue?)... For the past few months (I remind you I only have this one since July last year) I've noticed that the alternator might not be working as well as it should, because with the lights on you could see them going brighter with the raising of the revs, so at idle, the alternator wasn't producing the kind of power it was supposed to produce. So I knew that I would have to address the alternator sooner or later.
Finally, last weekend, the battery light came on, while driving. I checked with a multimeter and there was no raise in power output at all, with the car on. I drove the car two more times, and the battery finally died...
Trying to look on the bright side, it might just be a loose wire, but then again it might be the regulator (I don't think I'd need the alternator alltogether, because there is no strange noise coming from it, so I assume the bearings are ok).

Anyway, the question I'd like to ask you knowledgeable folks is can you reach the alternator from the engine bay (top) (remember I don't want to remove it for now, just get to the back of it and change the regulator), removing the plenum and stuff, or am I condemned to aproach it from below?

Thanks for your input! :byebye:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks petep312.

After watching some pictures of the v6 out of the engine bay, I suspect that it would not be possible to reach the alternator from the top. So I'll have to go from the wheel arch...
Darn!
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Hi guys!

I've been away from the forums in general, because I've been enjoying my lovelly Alfa :thumbup: and been working my *** off.:depressed: But once in a while, I do get some time to check how things are, in the virtual "www" world.

Anywho, I come before you today with a little problem (or should I say issue?)... For the past few months (I remind you I only have this one since July last year) I've noticed that the alternator might not be working as well as it should, because with the lights on you could see them going brighter with the raising of the revs, so at idle, the alternator wasn't producing the kind of power it was supposed to produce. So I knew that I would have to address the alternator sooner or later.
Finally, last weekend, the battery light came on, while driving. I checked with a multimeter and there was no raise in power output at all, with the car on. I drove the car two more times, and the battery finally died...
Trying to look on the bright side, it might just be a loose wire, but then again it might be the regulator (I don't think I'd need the alternator alltogether, because there is no strange noise coming from it, so I assume the bearings are ok).

Anyway, the question I'd like to ask you knowledgeable folks is can you reach the alternator from the engine bay (top) (remember I don't want to remove it for now, just get to the back of it and change the regulator), removing the plenum and stuff, or am I condemned to aproach it from below?

Thanks for your input! :byebye:
I've changed the regulator on the alternator of a 147 jtd from below, without removing much.
The access there was ok'ish, just very fiddly and you're working blind.
Mirrors and lighting important plus getting the angle where you're lying under the car exactly right were key.
Sticking your phone up and taking good pictures of what you're working on helps loads.

I imagine a V6 might be a bit tighter still
 

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Easier from below if you have a lift and you've owned the car a while so your familiar with removing the drive shafts. For the curbside mechanic the top approach may have some merit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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CF2's are much easier as you can pull the exhaust manifold out from the top. You may even be able to get at the alternator from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Help...

Well, after having gone through the wheel arch, I finally managed to reach and remove (from its seat) the alternator!!! Replaced the faulty voltage regulator (which was totally gone) and put in the new one. :thumbup:
i-2sV3bks-X2.jpg

Now it's time to put it all back in, which brings me here looking for your help and advice...

The alternator per se is held by two long screws that bolt on one of the sides of the supports on a sort of nut (fixed to the alternator brackets itself) and since I'm having an enormous hard time putting the alternator back in its place (I had to bash it out with a hammer and an iron bar to get it out), I was wondering if I can use a pliers to try and push out the nut-like thingy and get the alternator back on its mount. :thinking:

What do you guys think?
How did you manage to get the alternator back in?

Thanks in advance for your input guys! :biglaugh:

:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Guys,

To help you understand what I'm trying to say, the part I'm talking about is the one marked with the green circle on the pic below.

Alternator - marked.jpg

Please help me... I really miss my car and it's been stopped for two months now. :cry:

:beer:
 

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Please help me... I really miss my car and it's been stopped for two months now. :cry:
I know exactly what you mean. My GT has been parked up for 5 weeks now as I do the clutch.

I am not sure quite what you mean here. Are you saying you can't get the bracket of the alternator to go over the matching bracket on the engine?

I would disconnect an engine mount (3x 13mm bolts going into inner wing) and lower the engine slightly. You could also try popping out the intermediate shaft. It is awkward but not as hard as you think.
 

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What are we looking at in photo in your first post? Half an alternator?

Pub
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I know exactly what you mean. My GT has been parked up for 5 weeks now as I do the clutch.
It's a real bummer isn't it? :(

I am not sure quite what you mean here. Are you saying you can't get the bracket of the alternator to go over the matching bracket on the engine?

I would disconnect an engine mount (3x 13mm bolts going into inner wing) and lower the engine slightly. You could also try popping out the intermediate shaft. It is awkward but not as hard as you think.
Thanks for the engine mount advice. I did have to disconnect two of the engine mounts and the engine is suspended by one mount (GB side) a cable and a jack undeneath. I also had to push the engine forward in order to get to the alternator.

Ok now my question, basically and as you can see on the second pic the alternator has two mounting points (upper and lower) and each one of these has two mouting points (left and right), now on each set (upper and lower) one of the sides has a sort of nut where the bolt is going to grab (green circle) and my question is if you can push outwards a little the nut so you have more space between the left and right mounts enabling the alternator to fit back in its place?

:beer:
 

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Help...

Well, after having gone through the wheel arch, I finally managed to reach and remove (from its seat) the alternator!!! Replaced the faulty voltage regulator (which was totally gone) and put in the new one. :thumbup:
View attachment 631450

Now it's time to put it all back in, which brings me here looking for your help and advice...

The alternator per se is held by two long screws that bolt on one of the sides of the supports on a sort of nut (fixed to the alternator brackets itself) and since I'm having an enormous hard time putting the alternator back in its place (I had to bash it out with a hammer and an iron bar to get it out), I was wondering if I can use a pliers to try and push out the nut-like thingy and get the alternator back on its mount. :thinking:



What do you guys think?
How did you manage to get the alternator back in?

Thanks in advance for your input guys! :biglaugh:

:beer:
Yeah the bush in the alloy casting is pulled tight against the mount when you tighten the bolt up.

From what I can recall pliers may work or put the bolt in loose and whack it with a lump hammer and a drift. (Pushing it outwards to give more clearance around the mount)

Be careful though, you could break the lug off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah the bush in the alloy casting is pulled tight against the mount when you tighten the bolt up.

From what I can recall pliers may work or put the bolt in loose and whack it with a lump hammer and a drift. (Pushing it outwards to give more clearance around the mount)

Be careful though, you could break the lug off.
Yep, that's exactly what I was trying to say/ask, but was having some difficulty putting it in words... doh!

Anyway, thank you very much Chris, I can finally see some light at the end of the tunnel! :)

And thanks to all the others for your input, sorry I wasn't clear enough... :embarrassed:

Going there next Saturday, so I'll let you know how it turns out.

:beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok now for some updates!
I went there yesterday and managed to open up the gap on the bracket (used the bolts and a hammer), got the alternator back on its mounts and all the bits back where they belonged. Reconnected the battery and fired up the engine... Vroom! What a great sound comes from that beast! :biglaugh:
Alas that is all the good news I have or you today. The bad news is very simple, although I changed the voltage regulator, the battery light is still on I still don't get any electrical power from the alternator... :(
So I'm going to go out and buy a new alternator altogether and swap it.
I already know how to do it (and I already know what not to do) ;) so it should be easier this time around...

So that's it for now. Maybe when I'll go swap the alternator I'll remember to take some pictures and share them with you guys. It might even help others that haven't done this task yet.

:beer:
 

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I ended up having to do my alternator twice as the 'recon' one I put in was actually just cleaned and failed a couple of thousand miles later...

In case you haven't done it that way, you can definitely get it out without removing the oil filter but it's very fiddly trying to get all the nuts off.

Oh, and I'm very jealous of your 3.0l. I must get one sometime for mine ;)
 
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