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Discussion Starter #1
What do I need to do to get the crankshaft sprocket nut undone guys? I know it’s a left hand thread but I’ve put the car in 5th jammed the brakes on and tried a 19mm snap on deep socket on an extension bar but the engine is still turning ie, I can,t get any purchase on it to unscrew it. The book says drop the siump and use special tool to lock the flywheel but that entails dropping the exhaust and the bolts will just shear all Iwant to do is replace the cam side front oil seal. Be grateful for your advice!
 

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I have better success using 3rd gear. The trouble is the small clutch springs and engine mounts create a bit of give which allow the engine to turn a bit before real force is exerted.

If you have a heat source, heat the bolt head and then wait about 2 minutes to let the heat soak work. Ideally a Milwaukee impact wrench would work a treat but try different gears if you don't have access to heat or impact tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers. I don’t have an impact wrench and initially I took the cam belt off after locking the cams then to my horror I saw the crank sprocket move round to 1pm ish and am still worried I bent the valves but I didn’t expect the sprocket to move that much. I retired it and put the belt back on then tried the gear and brake routine with no joy. Apparently the seals usually leak because of float between the shaft and the sprocket though no I can’t say I’ve seen any there,s not that much oil coming out small puddle in the tray under the sprocket nut it will probably get worse if I leave it.
 

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Judt wondering for both wheels have to be off the groind to do thiis job? I only jacked it on the cam side
 

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Apologies for bad typing. I meant I’ve only got the car jacked up on the cam belt side so wonder what the effect on the engine and shafts will be with the near side wheel on the ground when I’m trying to rotate it in gear? Maybe the other driveshaft is just trapped but I don’t want to shear anything
 

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2010 Alfa Romeo Mito 1.4, 2003 Alfa Romeo GTV Phase 3 JTS
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Get the Totally Alfa tool for locking the exhaust pulley, it'll make the job much easier. And is very affordable
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Apologies for bad typing. I meant I’ve only got the car jacked up on the cam belt side so wonder what the effect on the engine and shafts will be with the near side wheel on the ground when I’m trying to rotate it in gear? Maybe the other driveshaft is just trapped but I don’t want to shear anything
Apologies for bad typing. I meant I’ve only got the car jacked up on the cam belt side so wonder what the effect on the engine and shafts will be with the near side wheel on the ground when I’m trying to rotate it in gear? Maybe the other driveshaft is just trapped but I don’t want to shear anything
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is that the one with the 3 prongs on it? If it is then I’ve got it but I didn’t know it could coubtrhold the engine I’d be worried about damaging the camshaft
 

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2010 Alfa Romeo Mito 1.4, 2003 Alfa Romeo GTV Phase 3 JTS
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Ahh sorry misread, thought you said camshaft not crankshaft
 

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Heating is your best alternative with either a gas torch or propane torch. I hea tany stuck nuts to dull red and leave for 10 or so minutes. You need to concentrate the heat on the nut of course and you may need more than one go at it. A rattle gun is desirable but not absolutely necessary bearing in mind the home work environment.
 

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Judt wondering for both wheels have to be off the groind to do thiis job? I only jacked it on the cam side
even in gear if you have a wheel off the ground the engine will still turn, get someone inside with foot on brake and try cracking it off again. You will get some flex through clutch to start with but it should lock up
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No one available at mo cos of distancing I jammed foot brake on with wooden bar trapped against seat ok for hydraulic bleeding but not so good for brake pressure. I’m thinking if I get a bit of steel plate or angle iron that’s long enough to be bolted to crank sprocket with the ribe bolts or longer ones and then be trapped under subframe then it would act as a flywheel lock so engine won’t turn what you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No one available at mo cos of distancing I jammed foot brake on with wooden bar trapped against seat ok for hydraulic bleeding but not so good for brake pressure. I’m thinking if I get a bit of steel plate or angle iron that’s long enough to be bolted to crank sprocket with the ribe bolts or longer ones and then be trapped under subframe then it would act as a flywheel lock so engine won’t turn what you think? Perhaps if I got hold of an impact gun I wouldn’t need to lave it in gear etc? I don’t like turning the crank bolthead unless car is in neutral it’s not good for the clutch.
 

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Locking like that could work,I have in the past jammed a screwdriver in the ring gear and locked it against block webbing to counter hold crank when loosening bolt. No idea what access is like on a twinny especially with it being left hand thread.
 

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I think one of the injectors is leaking so
I’ve not used a blowtorch in the area
You are not powering up the fuel pump, petrol is a highly evaporative spirit and a blowtorch would be working nowhere near the injectors. I see no reason not to use a blowtorch to heat the crankshaft bolt especially if there is some movement of air such as a gentle breeze.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You’re probably right, but I can smell a bit of fuel down there so I didn’t want to take a chance with a torch. I’m going to borrow an impact gun do you think I should leave it in or out of gear when I try and undo it? What about tightening it up should it be in reverse or neutral? It’s gotta be about 380nm I don’t have a torque wrench that high is there a way to estimate it that’s accurate enough?
 

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Quite easy to deal with. Just get a spray bottle (or hose) and spray the front of the engine down. Don`t turn the ignition on and you will not have any fuel leaking. All the senders around there are waterproof.
I would certainly address any fuel leak first anyway as a primary safety issue there - no fuel leak should be tolerated.
 

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You’re probably right, but I can smell a bit of fuel down there so I didn’t want to take a chance with a torch. I’m going to borrow an impact gun do you think I should leave it in or out of gear when I try and undo it? What about tightening it up should it be in reverse or neutral? It’s gotta be about 380nm I don’t have a torque wrench that high is there a way to estimate it that’s accurate enough?
It makes no odds if it’s in gear or not when using an impact gun.
As for tightening with no torque wrench there is no way to estimate as that is very tight. What I would do is get it FT and then once you and running go to a local garage and ask them if they wouldn’t mind putting their torque wrench on it in return for some beer tokens
 
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