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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I was happily driving my 2000-vintage Veloce Selespeed Sportwagon yesterday, the day after getting it serviced and tested, thinking how wonderful it still was, even with 105k miles on the clock, when suddenly...

A gentle crunching sound from the rear nearside, followed by a rubbing, scraping kind of sound and a smell of burning rubber. Turns out that the base of the suspension strut had dropped and was resting on the inside edge of the tyre tread. The car itself hasn't visibly dropped at all, but it is now undriveable.

Any suggestions as to what might have happened, and what costs I am now going to incur...?

Thanks

Keith
 

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The 'shoulder' of the shock that the spring sits on has rusted off, you need a new shock, the other side is probably just as bad though, so best do the pair.

Do you know if your car has the self-levelling rear suspension or does the back end normally look 'jacked up' in comparison to the front?
 

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Take your rear wheel off, and check for a sticker on the rear of the strut, if one is there pull it off if part number 60668186
then you have self-levelling
 

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There is more than one p/n for the Novimat self-levelling units.
 

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60665438
Bear in mind that you can replace them with standard shocks and top mounts, a lot cheaper but more work.
 

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More often than not when we have a customer in with failed Nivomat self-levelling rear suspension, we remove it and fit shocks, springs & top-mounts from a Sportpack equipped saloon model.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
First the good news (hopefully...) - I can't see a sticker, and the shock looks totally conventional - no extra tubes or wires or anything else out of the ordinary, so could I be lucky...?

But now the bad news - my ultra-keen mechanic pal has been working on it for the last hour, and can't see how to shift the bottom bolt - the one that appears to go all the way through the antiroll bars and the base of the shock - any clues...?
 

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First the good news (hopefully...) - I can't see a sticker, and the shock looks totally conventional - no extra tubes or wires or anything else out of the ordinary, so could I be lucky...?
There are no "extra tubes or wires" on a Novimat, it just looks like a slightly fatter damper unit. It is all internal.
 

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First the good news (hopefully...) - I can't see a sticker, and the shock looks totally conventional - no extra tubes or wires or anything else out of the ordinary, so could I be lucky...?

But now the bad news - my ultra-keen mechanic pal has been working on it for the last hour, and can't see how to shift the bottom bolt - the one that appears to go all the way through the antiroll bars and the base of the shock - any clues...?
The bottom bolt will come out, make sure to clean it up as much as possible with a wire brush and then give it a good soaking with a penetrating oil.
 

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A large helping of brut force combined with lubing, twisting and hammering will shift it - never before have I come across a more suck fast bolt :eek:
 
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Its call RUST, think about it, if the platform that holds the spring in place rusts & breaks then the long bottom bolt which runs thro the hub & has 3" of itself exposed to water, snow, salt etc, isn't that going to rust too?
 

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In the diagram Hazz37 included, check part #14. It's a collar that fits over that long bolt #11 .. this can be part of the problem as it sticks fast to the bolt and won't let it through the rear transverse arm.

The old on on mine was split along one side, so opening it up slightly with a cold chisel did the trick.

I replaced the long bolt #11 and collar #14 anyway. Mine was actually on the other way around! So the collar was at the bolt head end, not the threaded part and nut!
 

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Thanks guys. Plenty of brute force and ignorance later, it's off. And even better - it's not one-piece - the removable spring sits on a removable ring, which rests on a (collapsed) platform on the strut...
Just to confuse you even more, the Novimat units can also be disassembled into their component parts, but they are only supplied as a complete unit.

There should be a p/n pressed into the damper body.
 
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