Not sure, but if you can get one for £100 and it's good quality, I would have a bash at doing it yourself, seems mad to spend an extra £200 if you can do it yourself. Good luck and let us know how you get on.
It's fairly easy but very long winded and mine is an auto. I wasn't going to remove the bumper but didn't have room to slide the fans out after removing them so intake pipe off,front bumper off,bonnet slam panel off.Fans out and separate the rad from air con rad. (q-system has another rad under the nearside wing for the box but it's not in the way).
This is the ideal time to remove the air box,change the element and repair the box too. I did my thermostat as well.
Drain the coolant and remove the hoses,if you're lucky they'll already be jubilee clip fittings. Slide the rad out the top. There's a 90 degree elbow on the bottom connection which has to be transferred to the new rad. It is plastic and held on by a metal ring,with two protusions on opposite sides,squeeze these together (they're quick release clips) and remove the elbow. After transferring this pull the elbow slightly away from the rad to make a good seal on the lip, I had a small leak afterwards and this cured it. Refit rad and reassemble in reverse order.
Don't forget to refill system afterwards, I had both injector and gearbox lights on afterwards but spotted a loose connection and rectified it.The lights went out on their own.
You'll probably be amazed at how much of the rad is missing the fins, oh and I didn't mention the undertray as I don't have one.
You don't have to take the bumper off. I did mine recently without removing the bumper. The fans will come out with a little fiddling, no need to remove the slam panel. The worst bit is removing the aircon rad from the rad itself. Remove the 3 bits of trim around the bonnet release to get to the top screws. Remove the mesh grill on the bottom of the bumper to get to the bottom screws. Should take you around 2 hours to do.
Probably. As long as you don't try to get the rad out with fans still attached and you leave the aircon rad behind when taking main rad out you'll be fine. Everything comes out through the top individually without the need to remove slam panel or bumper.
Just read the other thread. His way is quite possibly the correct procedure but I did it in half the time taking fan and rad out through the top. It was tight getting them both out but it is definately possible.
I've managed to just about squeeze it out from on top without removing the bumper by seperating the fans. Some people say removing the slam panel helps a lot. Would have done this myself, but didn't realise slam panel unbolted easily.
I've bought the new rad from AppliedRadiators.co.uk - £110 inc postage. Comes with a 2 yr warranty. I'll report back on quality. I was surprised to see they list the same radiator for the twin spark models too ?
Well at long last i've fitted the radiator - absolute nightmare. I tried dsconnecting the fans then pulling them out - but they wouldnt come. In the end i followed the link mentioned earlier and that did the trick - many thanks to the author. Unfortunately i also decided to replace the thermostat and coolant is ****ing out! I've tightened the bolts hand tight plus a bit (i've cracked a thermostat housing before !). So looks like i'll have to take it off again and put some gasket seal on ... even tho i put a new gasket on. Has anyone had any problems with an aftermarket thermostat before ?
When I replaced the stat on my 155 V6, it had a gasket withit whcih was useless, I used red liquid gasket, slopped it on, set it in place, nipped it up hand tight, left it to cure, then nipped it up another turn or so, never leaked. I also stuck some of that rad-weld stuff in to cure any minor leaks.
I was fortunate that the complete front end was dismantled due to getting the chassis leg checked out,my son kept asking me if i had any cuts to the hand as he didn't hear any swearing coming from the garage !!!
Easier than i thought,shame that the used replacement was duff after close inspection,seems to be about £120 new off the web.
I sorted out my leaking thermostat - and i'm very embarassed to say it was all caused by a small piece of the old gasket still being attached to the thermosmostat mounting ! What a **** i felt
Anyway - all sorted now. The only thing i have noticed (but maybe its because i havent looked before) is that the water in the expansion tank seems to go from on the MAX mark when cold to just under the cap when hot ... is this how it should be ?
I was also rather surprised that a 6 year old radiator was in such poor shape. All the fins from half way down were turning to dust! Havent noticed any differance in the car reaching temperature any quicker - so i guess the original thermostat wasnt knackered after all.
hi there, i have just made a huge mistake, car was over heating yesterday so pulled over and noticed no water in resevoir. topped up few miles later same again. then realised radiator was dead. leaking every where. had a browse on here for replcing radiators and was very tempted to do it myself. bottled out last minute and called my local indie. he was able to do it today. rough estimate of 250. result. saves me getting me hands dirty. in the end it wernt 250 but just shy of 400!!!!!!!!!!!!! not happy. it also needed a new pipe, air con regassed. and then a final phone call saying that i also need to replace the power steering pipes as they r also leaking. wish i had done it my self now!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is turning into a saga ... The car is now running at 3/4 on the temp guage. I ran the car and the fans seem to be coming on at this point. They don't stay on continuously and the temp actually climbed to half way between 3/4 and full ! Before the new rad and thermostat it always stayed at 90. Also, if you turn the ignition off the fans stop - is this correct too ? The only cables i disconnected were the top 2 black, the middle 2 multi plugs then the bottom 2 black. I didnt mark up left and right ... assumed it wouldnt matter ?
All advice appreciated