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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I've just stopped and blipped the alarm on, popped into the shop for two mins. When I came out, the alarm blipped off normally and central locking worked, but the car wouldn't start. It was turning over but wouldn't fire. It seemed like the immobiliser was still on.

I messed around for a few mins trying different combinations of locking/alarming/unlocking etc, but nothing worked. After sitting with my head in my hands for 10 mins or so, I tried again and it fired up as if nothing had happened.:cry:

So I guess I've got an alarm fault, but I wondered if there are any known issues with only having the alarm on for a few mins and then trying to start up again? It almost seemed like it needed a few mins to reset itself?

If it is a fault, any ideas where I should start my investigation?

Thanks in advance.
 

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^^^As suggested above^^^^
You can overide the immobiliser with the accelerator pedal you know. If you have the 5 digit immobiliser code.
Can get you out of the s h i t if it happens again.
 

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I read somewhere that if you try disconnecting the battery, and shorting the 2 wires from the car together for half an hour then reconnecting them it will then work.

I take it the code light stays on when cranking? If not the fault is not the immobiliser.
 

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Why aren't you lot looking at the overwhelming clue?

He waited for the engine to cool before it would start again - Crank sensor failure, your best off having it replaced now before it cuts out on you in the middle of a motorway.
 

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Why aren't you lot looking at the overwhelming clue?

He waited for the engine to cool before it would start again - Crank sensor failure, your best off having it replaced now before it cuts out on you in the middle of a motorway.
Thats why I asked if the code light was going out Alex..

If it was I would going to say crank sensor. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Why aren't you lot looking at the overwhelming clue?

He waited for the engine to cool before it would start again - Crank sensor failure, your best off having it replaced now before it cuts out on you in the middle of a motorway.
Nice one Crespo. Thanks.

Smaky, I'd only driven for about three mins when I stopped, so I don't think the engin would have been warmed up enough, but it's an interesting idea. Thanks fo rthe suggestion.
 

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....oh, and the code light is on.
It is not recognising the chip in the key.
Could be the antenna as stated above.
I would try the manual over ride to make sure there is no immobiliser problem. if that works its 90% your antenna that is the problem or a faulty immobiliser ecu. which is by above the pedals in the drivers footwell. (blue box)
 

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....oh, and the code light is on.
If you look under the bonnet, in front of the battery there is a cover, remove it and underneath are some relays. The one labelled Inj. will cause the code light to remain on if it has failed, or if the contacts are corroded, or if the relay is corroded inside. Mine failed recently causing the car to cut out and not restart (code light remained lit). Disturbing it got the car started again, it was replaced and it has not caused me any bother since (thanks All Things Alfa :thumbs:).

Read here, seems it has happened to someone else today as well:

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-and-gt/172070-p1235-on-156-1-9-jtd-waht-is-affecting-immobilser.html
 

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....oh, and the code light is on.
In that case... Two things spring to mind...
Lets look at it from a "simple view" before spending lots of dosh ok

1. The immobiliser antenna has become loose or disconnected as V6Jon has already suggested. Simple to check.

2. When was the last time the battery was changed in your key fob?


Try replacing it. If the battery hasn't enough juice in it after you locked and re-opened the central locking, the antenna won't pick up the signal from the key transponder. Never take for granted that because it unlocked ok that it works ok... Like all battery opertated items... Left alone for a while, they recover just enough charge to work for a short time.
The key(pardon the pun) is in your original post "I've just stopped and blipped the alarm on, popped into the shop for two mins"

A battery will cost you at most £3.00 but let's face it, it's worth a try and you'll need one eventually anyway... Nothing to loose by trying it.... :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Ronny. The simple options are normally the right ones. I'll try changing the battery. I assume I'll have to do something to get the code light to go out? (I may have to invest in Alfadiag, which I've been reading alot about).
 

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Thanks Ronny. The simple options are normally the right ones. I'll try changing the battery. I assume I'll have to do something to get the code light to go out? (I may have to invest in Alfadiag, which I've been reading alot about).
The battery in the key has nothing to do with the immobiliser,it is only for the central locking/alarm.:tut:
 

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Yeah??? Thats why it has an ignition barrel antenna so close to the transponder in the key???? Ok!

Only reason why I suggested changing the battery is that the same thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago at work, home and finally at the local Tesco's.... Went in bought and changed the battery and "Presto"... Must have magic key fob then??? ;)
Hasn't happened since... Know what I mean?
 

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The immobiser chip has nothing to do with the key fob battery.
That is purely for the cetral locking and alarm. (not the immobilser)
There is a tiny chip inside the key which has a signal built in to it and the car picks it up when the key is in range. You can even take it out of the key fob and it will still work.
Sorry to be the bairer of bad tidings but it is defo not the key fob battery. The immobiliuser chip is not powered electricaly.
As soon as the car picks up the signal from the transponder the little light of a key with code written under it will go out.
No need to get it reset.
Check your antenna.
Search the forum for threads relating to the antenna as it has been covered before.
By all means if you want to get a new battery for your key fob. do it.
But it wont make the slightest bit of difference to the imobiliser chip.
The car searches for the signal from the chip not the other way round. hence the chip is not powered.
Trust me on this. I dont want you to get your hopes up.
 
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