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3,015 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As some of you might know, the forum is no more. We knew that the site was going down for a while (lack of traffic) so I took the opportunity to save some of my (hopefully) useful threads.

This was a thread I originally posted December 2009 and is made up of photos from a number of other threads as an illustrative guide.

Jack the front of the car up and support using axle stands under the jacking points normally used by a 4 post lift.

I didn’t get the opportunity to take many pictures as the battery was flat in my camera. You also, strictly speaking do not need to remove the subframe. I did remove it for 2 reasons, 1 – it’s a hell of a lot easier to remove and refit the engine with it out of the way and 2 – I had a sneaky suspicion the anti roll bar bushes were fecked.

Essentially the procedure for a E2 car is the same as it is for an E3 car. If you need more detail than this have a goosie at my anti roll bar replacement guide.

Remove the front pipe, disconnect it from the lambda sensor, then remove the cat.

You need to lower but not remove the transmission tunnel by removing all the bolts except the one in the centre of the tunnel at the rear end. Then undo the bolts the go through the lower arms and the fork that connects to the suspension strut.

Support the engine from underneath (it doesn’t move a great deal) and undo the bolt that goes through the rear gearbox mount into the bush in the subframe. You can now take out the method you used to support the engine. If your top mount on the drivers side of the car is knackered I would be very wary of when doing this. The gear box mount is held on to the g/box with 2 number 24mm bolts. Remove.

Undo the anti roll bar drop links. Remove all the bolts holding the lower arms onto the subframe, and the bolts holding the subframe onto the car. Remove the subframe. It’s a bit of a faff because the lower arms get tangled up with the ARB.

Sub frame and ARB pics. The first two shows just how much movement there was in the ARB….. It’s no wonder it was making some pretty worrying noises….

Disconnect the drive shafts.

Remove the battery, battery tray and airbox.

Remove the front wheel arch liners, then the front bumper. Remove the radiators and the support rail underneath. I removed them as one complete unit – both rads and the fans. You can leave the air con rad in place to avoid having to get it regassed. Again it’s a fiddle to do this as it will get in the way and you’ll have to take the air con pump off the engine.

Most of the wiring to the engine can be left in place. Just disconnect the multi pin plug, the wiring too:

Throttle body
Knock sensors (both of em)
Crank sensor
Cam sensor
Earth lead to G/box

Unbolt the wiring harness from the intake plenum.

Disconnect the heater hoses from the stat and the bottom hose from the stat as it has a feed to the header tank as well as the radiator.

Disconnect the gear linkage cables. (top of the gearbox at the back)

The following pics are of the wiring setup my Dad made when we moved the battery into the boot. If you’re doing this you need to disconnect the main feed to the alternator and the starter motor.

I’ve been busy with other things over the last few days so last night was the first opportunity I had to work on it. The engine was essentially ready to come out after the previous day’s efforts.

3,015 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After disconnecting the oil cooler, power steering pipes and the clutch slave cylinder all I needed to do was build the engine crane up, support the engine and disconnect the engine mounts…

Offside front engine mount

Rear gearbox mount reattached with wheels

Nearside front gearbox mount

Wheeling the engine out from under the car

Looking a bit sorry for itself……

In the process of separating the gearbox from the engine…. Undo the 17mm and hex bolt that hold the gear box onto the engine. I think there are 7 in total. 1 is hidden under the starter motor and goes in from the engine side.

You need to remove the starter motor which means removing the gear selector cable plate, heat shield, rear exhaust manifold and the wiring to the starter motor. And finally remove the flywheel cover on the bottom of the engine.


3,015 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Clutch and gearbox bell housing…

Another reason for me embarking on this escapade was that the clutch was noisy. I thought it was a minor problem with the release bearing or something like that. It wasn’t.

Notice the marks on the springs in the friction plate:

And this bit of metal that’s been rubbing against the pressure plate

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