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Discussion Starter #1
Have started a thread like this before without many responses but am still really struggling with the starting of my SW.
It will generally start when cold, but when hot it will either take forever or not at all. In both instances it "chugs" before starting. Once started its absolutely fine.
I've been told it may be the battery, but it spins over freely - but is that because its a meaty battery? Would a battery with a faulty cell still have enough grunt to turn over a big diesel engine?
The other suggestion I've had is burnt valves losing compression on start up. But why would it run fine once it has started?
Help! Any further advice would be really appreciated:cry:
 

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Most likely to be leaky injectors or faulty fpr not maintaing fuel pressure when the engine is stopped.

This is assuming the engine is well serviced! Also check the condition of the coolant temp sensor whichever one the ecu uses for a cold start switch, check glow plugs for condition and signs of bad fuelling. And have a sniff under the hood after a run for excessive fuel smells but don't overdo it!!! It's not great for your health especially if it is leaking fuel!!

I'm not really versed with alfa engines my advice isn't specific to any make or model but rather general common solutions!!!

Or it could be something alfa specific I have never heard of before.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just took a punt at a new battery. The old one seemed ok, but starting took the battery volts down to 10.5, so wondered whether there was enough to operate the rest of the system. Starts a little better but no real change :cry:
The coolant temp sensor is new - replaced with the cooling stat 4-5 months ago. Glow plugs are new - changed same time as stat. Can't see or smell any leaks - which leaves the suggestion of the fuel pressure relay. Anyone any idea where this is?
 

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Glow plugs are not really required unless very cold and certainly not the issue if the engine is hot. Prob fuel pressure or injector related
 

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Discussion Starter #7
156 Starting problems

Several months ago I found the EGR valve jammed solid due to a seized solenoid. I removed the valve, cleaned it up, and got a solenoid from a Vauxhall EGR that looked identical. Tried it, and it worked, but the engine became a bit stuttery on accelleration. Fuel economy fell, so I disconnected the solenoid and everything returned to normal. I haven't touched it since then. Haven't had time to investigate due to work committments and holiday, so i'll have another look to see if the EGR is open.

As for the fuel pressure relay, I'm not sure how to test that. Would hooking the car to a diagnostics unit be able to tell whether the fuel pressure is holding when stopped? If so, is there anyone in the Lincolnshire or Loughborough area that could do a check for me?
 

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+1 , i agree with Manails
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Can't be the crank sensor. I've already changed it! - with absolutely no change in starting performance. From what I understand, a faulty crank sensor would show up if the car stopped whilst running. Once started, my car is absolutely fine.

As an aside, I had to work this weekend, but had to fill up with diesel on the way home. On restarting after filling up, the car only just started but needed a great deal of turning over to get it started. Fortunately, the new battery provided the extra grunt the previous battery couldn't.
 

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When you changed the crank sensor did you remove the old sealing ring, often they stick to the block, then you put a new one on with a new sealing ring which leaves the sensor slightly further away from the toothed ring than it should be..
 

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good observation Pud :thumbs:
 

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I swear whoever thought of 'wet' crank sensors wants shooting. :mad:

I changed one on my Punto when I first got it, the toothed wheel is actually part of the crankshaft pulley for the timing belt and the whole thing took about two minutes. Why couldn't they be like this on Alfas too.. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Pretty sure the seal came off at the same time. I kept the original as the new one made no difference. It was such a PITA to replace I couldn't be bothered to change it back again. I'll check when i get back home.
Been reading up on a few past threads and there are similar references to the fuel pressure regulator problems, but I think I need to hook the car up to a diagnostics unit to get to the bottom of it.
 

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can you measure the resistance of the sensor [ approx 900 ohmns ]

if its ok then try disconnecting the 'cam' sensor [ blue in colour ] if its faulty it can prevent the car form starting.
 

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beghind the exhaust cam

but the connector, blue in colour. should be around the bulkhead
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hi all

Just a quick update to anyone that has (or ends up with) similar issues to what I've been going through.

I followed everyones advice checking sensors etc - absolutely no joy whatsoever.

Finally I relented and got it booked in with a diesel specialist. 2 hours later he rang back to say it was all fixed!!!!

In the end it was the seals on No.3 cylinder injector that was leaking. I guess that meant the header was de-pressurising and not allowing sufficient diesel into any cylinder. The colder it got the better it became - hence the better starting in the morning.

The seal kit cost £1, the labour £78+VAT. £91 all in. For something thats been causing heartache for months I think the moral of the story is - get it looked at!! There are more knowledgeable people than us numpties!!!!
 
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