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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

I have just been presented with the code 1238... :-(

Read a fw threads on there and lots of people have said to clean the EGR...
but can anyone tell me wher eit is?

Happy to unbolt stuff ;-) but lots of plastic covers under the bonnet!

ALos - is there anything else I can check ref error 1238...?

Thanks alot all..
 

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Unbolt the big plastic engine cover (three fixings and one push-fitting on the top right) and remove.

If you look at the inlet fanimold at the back, you'll see the EGR valve on the top righthand side, near the fuel filter. Remove and clean.
While you're there, whip the MAP sensor out too (small black item with a multiplug, held on with one bolt) and clean all the rubbish from it carefully. Makes a big difference.
 
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FiatECUScan = P1238 - Air Quantity 2
Generic code = P1238 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Usually EGR, MAF or turbo to heat exchanger pipe leak

Money would be on blocked EGR

Once removed get as much carbon soot as you can out of them then soak the metal part of it in Carb cleaner for 15-20 minutes, allow to dry thoroughly and re-fit.
http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/images/55215031-1027-1-800.jpg
Alfa Romeo Fiat Iveco Saab Vauxhall MAP Sensor
Follow the links to see what you are looking for
 

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Discussion Starter #5
UPDATE......

Ok - I have today removed the EGR and spent a while cleaning it - it was very caked in carbon, but now nice and clear. Used carb cleaner and a mild wet / dry paper and all went well.
put all back together - all good.
I also removed the MAF and cleaned this - again with carb cleaner.

I then disconnected the battery for an hour to try and clear the error code from the ECU.

I then drove the car for 20 miles.....

Now - there is no difference in the error code as the car still notifies me there is a motor problem and to go to my dealer!
The car drives really naf below 2000 rpm and then the power comes in.... and in the past I could drive along in 4th and accellorate and the pick up woul dbe good. - Now it is completely flat and I need to drop a gear to get some power...

Can anyone offer any more advice? - do I need a new EGR valve?

She has done 120K miles if thats any help, and pre this error - drove spot on.......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE......

Ok - I have today removed the EGR and spent a while cleaning it - it was very caked in carbon, but now nice and clear. Used carb cleaner and a mild wet / dry paper and all went well.
put all back together - all good.
I also removed the MAF and cleaned this - again with carb cleaner.

I then disconnected the battery for an hour to try and clear the error code from the ECU.

I then drove the car for 20 miles.....

Now - there is no difference in the error code as the car still notifies me there is a motor problem and to go to my dealer!
The car drives really naf below 2000 rpm and then the power comes in.... and in the past I could drive along in 4th and accellorate and the pick up woul dbe good. - Now it is completely flat and I need to drop a gear to get some power...

Can anyone offer any more advice? - do I need a new EGR valve?

She has done 120K miles if thats any help, and pre this error - drove spot on.......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No I didnt - can you advise how to do that? its a multiplug that plugs in ( you may know that.....?)
 

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i followed a great guide on how to clean the egr and 'pin' which is the important part. i can recall drilling a 3mm hole in the back to release the pin ready for cleaning.
try a search on ' egr the proper way' i'll have a look now for you.
 

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i followed a great guide on how to clean the egr and 'pin' which is the important part. i can recall drilling a 3mm hole in the back to release the pin ready for cleaning.
try a search on ' egr the proper way' i'll have a look now for you.
 

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before you start drilling .............get someone to start engine and look down at actuator on turbocharger and see if actuator moves ..i think you got split or perished pipes from there to valve or to engine so have a good look
 

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before you start drilling .............get someone to start engine and look down at actuator on turbocharger and see if actuator moves ..i think you got split or perished pipes from there to valve or to engine so have a good look
Spot on davealfa11, I had the same code and after cleaning the (already clean) EGR and changing the MAP sensor I still got the fault code.

It was only after replacing all the vacuum pipes that the code has not re-appeared, I also cleaned the MAF in-situ using contact cleaner while at it just to be sure.

clarenn, does the engine shudder when switching off? That could also be a sign of perished pipes, you need 5 and 3mm silicone to replace the vacuum pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks to Delta and Toxic....

Reading the PDF I remember the Solenoid was stuck fast so that is most likely the issue..?

Toxic - I am not entirely sure which pipes you mean under the hood as there are so many!
would it be best practice to change the pipes also?

I am sure they will not be big money for pipes will they ?

can you offer any guidance where they are ?

Thanks again to you all...
 

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Thanks to Delta and Toxic....

Reading the PDF I remember the Solenoid was stuck fast so that is most likely the issue..?

Toxic - I am not entirely sure which pipes you mean under the hood as there are so many!
would it be best practice to change the pipes also?

I am sure they will not be big money for pipes will they ?

can you offer any guidance where they are ?

Thanks again to you all...
There is a solenoid valve on the centre of the bonnet slam panel, just above the radiator. Once you've located this you will see two small hoses, one (5mm) connects to a metal pipe that runs across the cylinder head, the other (3mm) connects to a metal pipe that points downwards; on the other end of this pipe there is a another hose (3mm) that connects to the actuator on the turbo.

The 3mm hose can be difficult to fit, just warm them up and all should be OK, don't be tempted to use hose that is loose!

There are other hoses down the back of the engine; if you can find them! I can't on the 20v, I just hope they don't leak!

Replace them all with silicone hoses, will only be a couple of quid each for 1 meter - that will be plenty.

I'm sure there will be some photos if you search for them.

Cheers and the best of luck.
 

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In case something has been missed

Hi Clarenn,

All sound advice and the same things I had checked when I suffered a very similar problem. I might have missed if it had been mentioned here as I am at work and haven't been able to read through properly, but have you tried unplugging the MAF sensor, like I said, with all the fantastically helpful people on here, as a new owner I was at a loss with mine and checked the EGR, the solenoid, the pipes from the solenoid, and turbo hoses, eventually someone suggested that I try unplugging the MAF and taking the car for a spin, I did this and Low and Behold...POWER BACK!! Turns out me MAF had gone, one of these things where it was the last thing I checked, but was well worth checking everything else at the same time, helped me learn me way around the engine bay.

Hope you manage to find the problem dude.

:)
 
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Forgive the query, but did you also clean the MAP sensor too or just the EGR?;)

It was what was recommended to do on both items or your values are going to be so far out of whack from each other:thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks everyone for your advice.

I will locate the pipes and try unplugging the MAF

Thanks everyone
 
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