Is the new battery the same power as the old one?.
Seems like it hasnt got the charge/poke to start it.

 

hi if you mean cold cranking its higher than original, that was about 480 i think the new one is 620 amps.......im going to disconnect the negative tomorrow and see if i can reset things, suspect the issue has been caused by key in the ignition when jump starting with green flag or the same when battery was swapped from what iv read on line

 

Disconnect the battery again for 10 mins, with your key well away from the ignition.

Reconnect and hopefully it will have reset.

 

Nope its still not working. Reading the manual it says the code system is inop when the engine management AND the code light come on, mine is the code light and the vdc system failure. Also in the manual it says never to use an emergency battery charger to start but to connect another battery, green flag and the garage used an emergency jump starter! have they destroyed the starting system or something? AAAAArgh.

 

Do the headlights come on and if so do they dim significantly when you try and start the car?

 

Sounds like the battery has gone flat too, maybe need a new alternator.

 

battery is fine, brand new and never been used, car turns over, all electrics work, interior lights etc. will check the headlights in a bit! The tested the alternator charging current and it was fine. Horrible feeling its to do with the emergency battery charger jump start or read elsewhere about spikes when keys left in ignition. Took fuse cover and steering wheel cover off and cant see anything loose.

 

If damage had been caused when it was jumped it wouldn't have worked properly after the battery was changed. Sounds like some of the fuses or connections around the battery have been disturbed when the battery was changed which only started causing problems when you tried to restart later.

 

he did struggle to remove the old battery, took the cover off the relays in the compartment in front of the battery and look ok, anywhere else I should be checking around the battery area?

 

Fuses on top of the positive connection are the most likely cause of problems.

 

pulled all the fuses out visually checked them and returned them, same with relays in front of the battery, tried again .....nana. damn.

 

Headlights?

 

ah yea sorry. they did come on before i tried starting, on turning over they looked like they were going out, as it was daylight i was using a reflection but they definately didnt stay on same power and dulled visibly.

 

I might have over extended myself slightly as I think now that the headlights are meant to go out when you start the car!

 

yea i thought that myself as when you start the non essential electrics are stopped to allow starting , but hey you never can be sure

 

If I have understood your original post correctly your engine management light ( coil light ? ) doesn't come on at all with ignition. ?
If that is the case and the injection system isn't getting any power then that would explain code light coming on and staying on hence also not starting certainly seen it on twinnies before.
I'm not at home to check wiring diagram for a jtd at the moment re fuse numbers etc

 

yea davffc the coil warming light doesnt come on at all when trying to start, while code light and vdc failure come on.

 

I think that is probably where you need to start.
Check your handbook but elearn suggests that one of the fuses in the fusebox under the steering wheel controls the injection ecu. Its is described as fuse F4 in one of the additional rails my handbook says fuses 13, 14 or 15 but thats for a twinnie.
Rubbish pic attached of approx location I think

Apologies for the quality but it was dark and I couldn't really see properly

 

thanks mate will have a look tomorrow

 

yea looking at the fuse chart fuse 13 controls both the code system and the electronic ignition and injector system (which also uses fuses 14/15 and 5 in the engine compartment. says these fuses are located in 3 containers located above the main fusebox after removing the panel by the steering column. Diagram a bit pants but will have a poke about tomorrow am.

 

No problem, hope you get it fixed

 

Visual checking of fuses doesn't always work. Sometimes you just can't tell if they've blown. Either check them with a multimeter or swap with another identical fuse.

 

looks like davffc was on the money, but rather than the fuse protecting the injection system as well as code, it was the relay for the injection system in the engine compartment, corroded or on way out, whatever its at garage to be replaced. thanks for all the advice

 

Excellent news and hopefully not too expensive a fix !
:thumbs:

 

the princely sum of £22 haha result!