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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My friend now really has to sell his 156 as can be seen from the asking price.
The only problem since the build was that the manifold leaked at a stage. We brought the boost down to 0.5 bar when his financial situation changed. With the current setup the average consumption is between 9 and 10km\l. If you push it will drop to low 6 but what do you expect:lol:

It is with great regret that I need to sell my beloved Alfa.
I have been looking after this baby like a passionate Alfisti should.
The following was done on 240 000km
Cambelt Service
New upper control arms
New Airflow Meter
Complete new clutch system
Turbo conversion
4 x Yokohama Tyres
New HID Headlight globes fitted
New Windscreen Wipers
Complete flat and polish of the exterior
Complete new de graaff exhaust system
Complete new front and rear discs and pads
Awesome JBL and JVC sound system

The car drives like a brand new car, the last dyno day at the Alfa Romeo Club of Pretoria, it won the day overall with 336 wheel horse power. Proof of this can be supplied.
The turbo conversion was done with the intention of driving the vehcile on a daily basis, and I have been using it very frequently to work and back very realiably.
The only reason I am selling this beauty is due to financial issues.

Current mileage is 249 000 km
Asking price is R 57 000 neg




Turbonutters 156 2.0 Turbo 336 Wheel Horsepower - YouTube

Thanks and Regards
Hendri du Plessis
083 633 2444
[email protected]
 

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Wow, this car be clean!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes it is he is a pain in the neck:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
His 166 is also in the market for R35 000
 

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Very nice! I wouldn't mind owning it!
If I had sare cash lying around it would of been a done deal!
2 Twin Spark turbo's in one yard can only be good!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No on this one the cr is 9 to 1. The head, rings and bearings was done at the same time the rest was still in good condition.
Everything that's normally old on a 156 with those km was replaced.
 

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I really like your projects! As you may know I'm also doing a turbo conversion on my Spider and we have had contact by e-mail earlier.
I was still affraid that my OEM rods are not strong enough for 270 bhp / ±300+ NM but reading this makes me feel a little more confident about that! :)

Hope you (or your friend) will sell this beast very soon!
 

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I really like your projects! As you may know I'm also doing a turbo conversion on my Spider and we have had contact by e-mail earlier.
I was still affraid that my OEM rods are not strong enough for 270 bhp / ±300+ NM but reading this makes me feel a little more confident about that! :)

Hope you (or your friend) will sell this beast very soon!
You are off this thread subject, but no the conrods are strong enough. The turbo does strain the engine more at high revs. Lancia limit the revs of the turbo Integrale at 5500 in a near identical block. You will find similar actions on VW/Volvo/Saab turbo cars compared to their NA engines. The boost will not kill the rods, but revs will. If you only occasionally do sprint to the redline, the 7000 redline will work. If it is something like a track car that work between 4/7000 fit ARP bolts on the conrods and main bearings. Conrod failures are due to bolts that fail.

I build two turbo TS engines, 262 and 267 whp, one limited to 6000 and the other to 7000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you want to lower the cr the easiest way is to offset the big end bearing by 4mm on the conrods. It work brilliantly on them we had one in the stable that did more than 200 000 abusive km with a setup like that.
If you do that just remember that no 4 piston's skirt have to be modified a bit to make space for the timing plate.
 

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How reliable is something like this really for a daily drive? How much power does it make at 0.5 bar boost? Can't be 252wkw on 0.5, can it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
252 was at 0.9 bar boost. We had no problems with similar conversions.
My personal 2.0 turbo did 10000 km with oe cr and between 0.5 and 0.8 bar boost.
A 145 we did in 2002 did more than 200 000 km after the conversion was done. The only failures was twice when the owner cracked the sump and drove home without oil. The 145 ran at 0.8 bar apart from a couple of times that the boost was raised to 1.2 bar for the fun.
 

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I was still affraid that my OEM rods are not strong enough for 270 bhp / ±300+ NM but reading this makes me feel a little more confident about that! :)
You also need to improve the oil flow to the crank. The problem is you will tap the oil supply, to feed the turbo and then there will not be enough oil for the crank.

You need to make a reducer to press fit into the oil channel feeding the cylinder head at the back of the block, as well as one in the oil tube feeding the turbo. The holes in the reducers must be 1.5 mm. At first start-up the cam followers will take about an hour to quieten down, but after that it will be perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I prefer removing the balancers and blocking there oil feed. Since the TS tend to eat cams I prefer keeping the normal oil flow to the heads. On my 2.0 we newer had oil pressure problems. The 145 turbo also did 100 000km with oe oil system including balancers with out a problem. But you obviously need a reduce for the turbo oil feed since the turbo seals will not take 3 bar plus oil pressure.
 

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252 was at 0.9 bar boost. We had no problems with similar conversions.
My personal 2.0 turbo did 10000 km with oe cr and between 0.5 and 0.8 bar boost.
A 145 we did in 2002 did more than 200 000 km after the conversion was done. The only failures was twice when the owner cracked the sump and drove home without oil. The 145 ran at 0.8 bar apart from a couple of times that the boost was raised to 1.2 bar for the fun.
Cool - how much power does it make at 0.5 bar? Would you say this is as reliable as a standard 2.0 motor that is well maintained?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
We haven't measured but I guess about 150 kw. Reliable yes the same as a well maintained TS. But I will change the oil more often at least every 10 000km. The 156 still use a oe air box and filter as well.
 

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I prefer removing the balancers and blocking there oil feed. Since the TS tend to eat cams I prefer keeping the normal oil flow to the heads. On my 2.0 we newer had oil pressure problems. The 145 turbo also did 100 000km with oe oil system including balancers with out a problem. But you obviously need a reduce for the turbo oil feed since the turbo seals will not take 3 bar plus oil pressure.
Do you recommend to remove the balancers and block their oil feed or is it ok to keep the oem oil system including balancers (without mounting the belt).
At this stage of my project it's still possible to remove the shafts but I don't know if blocking the oil feed is a difficult job?

And do al these turbocharged Twin Sparks drive with the standard gearbox?

I'm sorry, I'll start my own thread right now. Check the GTV/Spider section;)
 

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Do you recommend to remove the balancers and block their oil feed or is it ok to keep the oem oil system including balancers (without mounting the belt).
At this stage of my project it's still possible to remove the shafts but I don't know if blocking the oil feed is a difficult job?
If you leave the balancers in without drive, they start oscillating in phase with the engine and exaggerate the vibrations it was intended to to remove by spinning out of phase to the engine.

To block off the oil feeds is a big job indeed - it is and engine out job - you have to put blanking plugs where the balance shaft came out and put in grub screws in the oil feeds in the crank area.

And do al these turbocharged Twin Sparks drive with the standard gearbox?
That is a question of finances and "where you want to go to" with the car - 280bhp is on the high end of what any of the components will be able to handle. As a daily drive you will not use 280bhp regularly and will be using it inside the design criteria of the components, no worries, the occasional burst should not break stuff if you apply the power gently and not snap-shifting.

If you want to use the 280bhp for Traffic Light Grand Prix / 1/4 miles sprints including snap-shifts you WILL break stuff.
 
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