Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys I'm new to this forum as I'm owner of Alfa Romeo for the first time... I have problems and problems with this car very disappointed. The main problem is that if I stay in gear for to long between 3000rpm-4000rpm engine light comes on and message faulty motor system somethings like that and it loses some power still able to drive and if I turn the engine off started back again all back to normal and the engine light goes away after few hours. Any suggestions??? I've owned this car for 3 weeks and in that time changed rear shocks pain in the ass, and front upper and lower control arms both sides and it pulls to the left just what to know what might be the problem and sell it no more Alfa Romeo for me sorry guys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
Any power loss or smoke lower down in the rev range?

As you've described it, it sounds like the turbo is overboosting.

Usually between 3000-4000 rpm the VNT mechanism moves the turbo from high-boost to low-boost positions as the exhaust gas flow increases.. If the VNT mechanism is sticking then the turbo can hang up in high-boost position for too long, causing the over-boost error (and associated Motor Control System Failure message, and the low power "limp mode" to be activated).

Best way to progress will be to get a diagnostic computer plugged in to read the error codes, and then proceed from there. No point spending money to fix things until you've got a firm diagnosis!

Another route of attack could be to buy a bottle of turbo-cleaner (Archoil products are pretty good I've found), follow the directions and see if that clears it up at all.. If it is sticky veins, and it's just started, then an in-tank turbo cleaner solution could be enough to revive it... Nice long high-speed motorway runs are good too.. You can easily get up to 80mph+ without touching 3000rpm, so should manage to get up to speed without the MCSF dropping you into limp mode.. A nice long hot run can really blow out the crud on these engines... Also might be worth popping out the MAP sensor and inspecting it.. If it comes out looking like a lump of coal, it needs a clean!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for reply.. No smoke at all and no power loss in lower revs it drives nice but when I hammer it that's when it loses power see id like to use all the power that it should have. As you said if I take it easy I was going 130mph will plug it on to diagnostic and we see will try that stuff that you told me hope it helps... Thanks again
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
46,342 Posts
Clean the MAP sensor, good first starting point to fixing this issue. Also, have you tried seeing what fault code is being reported?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
No not yet will have the diagnostic done on Monday till then will clean the map sensor and get an turbo cleaner
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
This could be a number of things but all are powertrain related.

Get the codes read to pinpoint the issue.

But in order of ease to sort.

Map sensor (remove and clean)
MAF sensor again the same process
VNT actuator solenoid
Vac hoses
Top and bottom boost hoses.
Oh and EGR can do this if stuck...remove clean and refit.


And finally and most of a pain sticky vnt in the turbo.

There are various ways to clean it,archoil previously mentioned and innotec as well do an in tank turbo cleaner and one that requires putting through the turbo.

A good long run will help as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
And finally and most of a pain sticky vnt in the turbo.

There are various ways to clean it,archoil previously mentioned and innotec as well do an in tank turbo cleaner and one that requires putting through the turbo.

Would the mr muscle procedure solve this?

I want to try it on the GT - does the exhaust pipe come off the turbo easily? Anyone know?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
Would the mr muscle procedure solve this?

I want to try it on the GT - does the exhaust pipe come off the turbo easily? Anyone know?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If it's gummy/carbony deposits (susceptible to hydroxide attack) that are causing it to stick, then Mr Muscle-ing will probably free the mechanism up... Bonus points for wiggling the actuator back and forth whilst the exhaust side housing is full of foam.

I found the V-Band clamp a total PITA to undo... Got the nut undone easy enough, but took aaaages to actually get the clamp off and release the downpipe... Took a large hammer, some well place strikes, and a good deal of swearing..

Not sure what it'd do to the pre-cat, but if you're willing to risk it I'd prefer to split the exhaust at the 3-bolt flange and drain the cleaning fluid out there rather than muck about with the band clamps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Just rule everything else out first before you go down that route.

Cant do any harm if you do it properly but its not a 5 min job.

Where as all the other things are easy with basic knowledge and a decent tool kit...I would put money on this being a sensor ,egr or vac hose issue as most of the time it is.

Unless the car is over 80k and doing lots of small journeys and has been "grannied"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
I'm under the car at the moment. In the pic, can i go in by undoing those 3 bolts(triangular arrangement) and feeding a pipe through it, which is attached to the mr muscle?

Is that gold coloured cylinder a cat?(i don't mean the actuator with blue pipe) I'm rather unfamiliar with exhaust/turbo etc!




Sent from my Vodafone Smart ultra 6 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
Now i see the clamp ...also a gold colour. The nut is on the opposite side of the clamp, to where the access is! Remove that metal shield and use a wrench with an extension, to get to the nut?

So yes or no to go in through that cat with a legth of hose ...can i get a hose through it?? Would it be some kind of mesh?

Sent from my Vodafone Smart ultra 6 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
No, you can't put anything through the cat. The core is in the way.

But there's no point tearing all this apart if the VNT isn't sticking. Can you feel that it is, by finger pressure? (Takes quite a lot, at the actuator arm). Alternatively, if you have a Mityvac (or cheap clone vacuum pump from eBay) you can test the VNT actuation is linear.

Mine was sticky, on a 147. Turned out to be rust obstructing the vane movement, possibly due to the car standing for several months before I bought it. None of the aerosols would have fixed that.

That V-band clamp is a swine, but if you can back off the nut a bit it can be moved around to a more accessible location.

If it's impossible, it's easier to unbolt the manifold for access.

Springing that clamp apart can be done by tubes/box spanners over the tangs once the bolt is removed, or nuts on the inside of a threaded rod/bolt to spread it apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
No, you can't put anything through the cat. The core is in the way.



But there's no point tearing all this apart if the VNT isn't sticking. Can you feel that it is, by finger pressure? (Takes quite a lot, at the actuator arm).

Cheers.

I tried to move the actuator arm ....but i couldn't get to the top of the bar to press it down! Do you do this from under the car or lifting the bonnet and going in? The bar is about 2 inches in length, yes?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
Thanks mate. Appreciate the pics!

I posted my problem on a certain facebook page and a few guys said they've gained access via an egr pipe. Would that route be easier than that exhaust clamp?

In the pic below, do they mean the pipe in the lower left corner with the square connection?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
Yea the EGR point is much easier to get to.

That square flange is were the exhaust manifold bolts to the Turbocharger, the EGR port is further up and on the the side of the actual exhaust manifold...

Oval-ish in shape, 2 bolts. Connects to the EGR pipe and cooler, which snake about to the righthand side of the engine bay (between the battery and the engine block), and joins up to the EGR valve at the rear of the engine.

Should be visible once you get the upper heat shield off, and then easily accessible from the top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,913 Posts
Yea the EGR point is much easier to get to.

That square flange is were the exhaust manifold bolts to the Turbocharger, the EGR port is further up and on the the side of the actual exhaust manifold...

Oval-ish in shape, 2 bolts. Connects to the EGR pipe and cooler, which snake about to the righthand side of the engine bay (between the battery and the engine block), and joins up to the EGR valve at the rear of the engine.

Should be visible once you get the upper heat shield off, and then easily accessible from the top.
Thanks!

So the point of entry, with the mr muscle tubing, is where the egr cooler pipe joins the exhaust manifold, and at this point I would be standing over the engine (not underneath) feeding the tube in ...is that correct?
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top